overheating

[chuck]

Are you sure the fan is turning the right way? At 20 degrees you should be cooling without a fan. My fixed pitch fan is noisy, I can not compair it with the spal. I have them in 17", 18" in std and reverse rotation. I also have the flex fans. If you are good on the 11 you may need a radiator.

 

[chuck]

About the HRE-342A. I have spend way too much money over the years trying to save a little money only to later buy the better/more expensive one that I should have bought in the first place because the first one would not quite do the job I needed done. The problem with buying cheap stuff is that most of the time it will not completely do the job but will come close. A few times the cheap stuff works out fine and sometimes the cheap stuff won't work at all. I like to get it done and be done with it.
Most of the time I find that if I pay the price for the good stuff it is cheaper in the long run. my .02

 

[NOTPRETTY]

Yes, the fan is turning the right way. :-[ It is pulling air through the Rad towards the engine mounted between the engine and rad. I don't even know if a SPAL fan can be set up to push air. I hope it can because that may be part o my solution I talk about at the bottom of this post.

Keep in mind that my engine was being worked hard...I was between gears on this hill and either lugging or running cranking the engine up. It was serious snow wheeling...4+ feet deep on way into Ellis Creek via McKinstry on the Rubicon 2-21-04. I agree though that it still shouldn't get hot. Is there a way to verify the condition of the water jackets without pulling everything? This engine was rebuilt over 30 prior to my ownership in 1991 and may have sat for extended periods prior to my buying it. I have about 50,000 on it max since I bought it.

I run a good 190 Stat, 4 core staggered rad, 16 Lbs cap, with good overflow system. Timing is right, I think the autolite 2 brl carb is right. My Water pump pulley is only slightly smaller than my crank...That will help if I go smaller. And, I need a plate below the Rad to improve air flow. Again, I have no shroud and a SPAL puller 16" fan only. I run a bone stock 302, NP435 Dand 20 with 4.85:1 and 4.11 in the pumkins. Compression is good...no steam from the engine and exhaust is brand new. HELP...

My thought is this...Smaller pulley, Add air flow plate below rad, go to 7 blade mech fan with shroud and mount the spal in front if I can set it up to push...if not I have a 12 in that can. Thoughts?

Thanks for the feedback.

Marlon

 

[NOTPRETTY]

About the HRE rad... Would you agree that if you have the fab skills to mount that rad corectly it is a good deal. The Rad quality is no different from what I see in all the EB part house sell for $350.00 or more....No epoxy...all aluminum...rad??? After all it is $150.00 less. What is different with the Davis Rad you sell?

Marlon

 

[chuck]

I have looked at the RD and can see that it is very well built, I have not looked at the other one. If it has the same workmanship and features that the RD has and you want to modify it to fit the EB go for it. Doug Shultz, can you compair the two radiators for us?
I should make it 12 things to check. Have you checked the guage for accuracy? I use a heat gun for this.

 

[md_lucky_13]

mount the spal in front if I can set it up to push...if not I have a 12 in that can.

I think the very least of your problems would be to set the SPAL fan up as a pusher. The SPAL fan is 3.39 inches wide, and is going to be way too big to fit between your grill and your radiator, unless you plan on cutting out a large portion of the grill. I also think (and I cannot confirm this, because I never took exact measurements) that 16" is going to be too tall, and will not fit under the hood. I even think the 12" is going to be too tall.

If you do go with a pusher, a 10" should work. Perhaps dual 10" fans would also work. But, you are also going to have to get rid of your hood latches if you put two fans in front. If you don't already have good hood pins, you are probably going to need those, also...


If you already have the fan, I would try to build a shroud for it first. If you are 100% set on getting a mechanical fan, you might not even need the extra electric if you have a proper shroud. Just some more ideas to think about!

 

[NOTPRETTY]

Chuck, anyone...Sources for smaller pulleys that are reasonable. I don't need billet.

Chuck, do you think my plan is sound? 4 posts up?

????

 

[NOTPRETTY]

I think the very least of your problems would be to set the SPAL fan up as a pusher. The SPAL fan is 3.39 inches wide,

You are probably right. The 16 Spal won't fit there, but I think I can get a 12" in by getting hood pins and dumpin the latch.

As for getting a shroud for the spal...That is not possible. The fan is mounted directly to the rad and you can't move it back to build a shroud around...no room. I don't seem to have too much problem on the highway, so just adding a shroud with a spal doesn't seem like I would gain much. I can keep it within reason except on the hottest of days...100+

Need Water Pump Pulley....Anyone?

 

[chuck]

Chuck, anyone...Sources for smaller pulleys that are reasonable. I don't need billet.

Chuck, do you think my plan is sound? 4 posts up?

????

It's a good place to start. Check all of the 12 things above to be sure they are right. If that does not fix the problem buy my 3 core triple pass or the Ron Davis they will.

 

[Rustytruck]

If your running a v-belt try local mustang parts houses the early 289 used smaller pullys. you will have to directly compair the grouve to mounting face dimension and may have to shim the pully out a little depending on which pully grouve lands where. water pump shims are available from a local sped shop or Jeggs or Summit. If you have a 302 in a Bronco depending on which year and wether or not you had a smog pump and power steering there are 3 different water pumps with different length snouts to help make a mess of swapping parts. If you have a 351 I have no experience in what you have to do there.

Overheating when cold I am worried thet you thermostat is bad or in backward. The copper bulb sensor in the thermostat goes tword the Block. Usually the side with the bail type loop twords the radiator hose. Buy the robert shaw performance unit. Not all thermostats are the same even carrying the same rating. A 180 degree marked thermostat could be just starting to open at 180 or could be fully open at 180. or anywhere inbetween. same goes for the shutting down side. This doesnt even account for manufacturing tolerence. different brands open to flow different amounts of coolant this causes a needed restriction but could be too constricted for your needs or too open and water flowing too fast to cool extremely rare if running a thermostat. It is common if a guy removes a thermostat completely. Most racers will remove a thermostat but put in a metering plug basicly a big washer with a hole in it to slow water flow. The hole is usually around 5/8th to 1 inch depending on engine demand. This allows them to pump in water to cool an engine between runs something you cant do with a thermostat in place because as soon a a thermostat sees cold water it slams shut even if the rest of the engine is hot.

 

[Bugs]

Re: Re: Another

Dude, thanx for the pics!! You said you had the tranny cooler before the rad? What I am doing is having it AFTER the rad to avoid heat transferrence. Since the Tranny can take less heat than the engine...simplistic explanation but too many of the very knowlegible people I've run into have it this way also. Can this be adding to your heat problem?

I have not plumbed the lines yet (still just running to the radiator) BUT I am going to run thru the cooler first and the trhu the rad. Unless I hear enough to convince me otherwise ;D I think my problems started when I had to drive home after alternator fell off into my radiator (dont ask!) This left me without cooling I would start drive go fast shut off coast until i got home before that it got real HOT! since then its been kreeping up to 210+ at times. Granted a my fan blades are wrinkled and I do not have a shroud (just bought a metal shroud from Tom' at SOB) on yet but soon.
Bugs

 

[Lttrbox]

And, I need a plate below the Rad to improve air flow.

NOTPRETTY, I think this thread is where I posted my problem with that plate. If I understand you correctly, when looking at the front of the truck, the schroud extends below the bottom of the rad? And you need a plate in there so that fan draws air through the rad vs through that opening?

If so, that was a big chunk of my problem. In my case, putting a plate over that opening caused a problem. That is, the fan (at low speed and turns out was not related to engine fan speed) would create a higher pressure on the engine side of rad forcing air forward through the rad. The fan would then suck the hot air back through the rad higher up the rad. This is what caused my slow heat build up. Confusing part was that once the truck was moving greater than about 5 - 10 mph, the pressure from outside the truck offset the pressure from the fan and the whole thing would cool down to operating temps within a minute or two. CRAZY.

So if you build that plate check the air flow with a shop towel to be sure its moving the right way.

 

[HotWheels]

after the rad..to limit heat transfer. exspecially if the tranny cooler has it's own fan...

 

[NOTPRETTY]

Thanks for the input... I will check the air flow like you said.

I have a question about the small water pump pulley. Is it siginficantly smaller than the crankshaft pulley. Mine is smaller, but just a bit smaller. Any one with a pic of this smaller pulley?

marlon