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Painting or powder coating?

danbrunk

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2022
Messages
26
69 Bronco…Frame ready to get painted or powder coated. Will have it blasted first. What’s better?

Only 2” lift going on, no frame modifications but I want to add power steering. Does that use existing holes? Also what is best for the differentials and transfer case?
 

1969

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Messages
605
Powder coating is the more durable option.

Are you asking if the power steering box uses factory frame holes?
And are you asking if you should paint or powder coat the diffs and t case or?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,041
It all depends...
You say no frame modifications, but then it sounds like you are going to have some that you are not planning on.
Power steering may, or may not, use the existing holes. Depends on what your get for power steering. That could be a frame modification.
You are asking about choices in axles and transfer case, sounds like drivetrain is not picked out yet, that could be more frame modification.

Paint and powdercoat are two different processes to apply two different coatings. Paint goes on as a liquid, cures as it dries. And there are all different kinds of paint. I don't mean colors, there are all different shades and colors as well. Some that should never be used on a vehicle (water colors, latex) and others that are good choices (Urethane and Enamel). Some are better for a final finish but would be a horrible chassis paint (lacquer). Or if you are trying to hide rust from the next owner, and you hope they don't know about it, shoot it with bed liner. So many different ways to go. And what are you trying to do? Win a custom car show where the frame is as clean as the perfect body? Or you just want something to cover the bare steel so it doesn't rust?

That was just paint. Powder coat goes on as a dry dust. Goes into an oven and is baked. Turns to liquid and the powder (powdered plastic) melts and flows out. Once cool it leaves a plastic shell over the steel. Nice, pretty durable, but still not perfect. Like paint, rust can creep in between. And you can't touch up powder coating. If chipped or gouged you are either getting it all stripped back to nothing and recoat from scratch, or you get a paint can and do a touch up.

As for best differentials, or so many good choices. How large is your budget? What are your plans for using it when done? How much power? How large of a tire? A Dana 30 might be a good choice for some, a Dana 44 is generally the go to choice, and the Dana 60 is the hard core option. Even then it also matters about getting the right one. Not any Dana 44 (for example) will work. Only one from from an early Bronco is a direct fit. Then there are the full width options.

And rear axle, countless flavors of the 9". From the mildest of the low GVW small bearing stock all the way to insane.

Transfer case. Again, what are your overall plans? Dana 20 that it came with is generally pretty good. Atlas has always been a go to choice for way better than stock. Most any modern chain drive transfer case (say 1980 and newer) is too wide to fit in the frame rails.
 

EPB72

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
814
Loc.
Pleasant Hill, CA
For Frame ,suspension ,steering, chassis brackets ,and axle housings,more,, If in black I'd use Epoxy primer ,,SPI 2-3 coats no top coat needed but if desired can be.. will come out as a semi gloss but can be altered by spray technique to get a more or less gloss apearance,,,easily touched up for any damage/future modifications.. just clean/scuff area and use a touch up gun,,,
But I see the appeal to powder coating drop off a bunch of rusty dirty parts pick up a finished product appose to hours/days of prep and finishing youself....
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,846
Were you asking what type of differential or transfer case is best? Or are you asking what type of coating is best for those existing components?
 
OP
OP
danbrunk

danbrunk

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2022
Messages
26
Powder coating is the more durable option.

Are you asking if the power steering box uses factory frame holes?
And are you asking if you should paint or powder coat the diffs and t case or?
Yes, and I will talk with the supplier on if the Kit for power steering will use the existing frame holes.
Yes, should I paint, powder coat or leave alone the existing diffs and tcase.?
 
OP
OP
danbrunk

danbrunk

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2022
Messages
26
Were you asking what type of differential or transfer case is best? Or are you asking what type of coating is best for those existing components?
What coating if any on the diffs and tcase?
 
OP
OP
danbrunk

danbrunk

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2022
Messages
26
It all depends...
You say no frame modifications, but then it sounds like you are going to have some that you are not planning on.
Power steering may, or may not, use the existing holes. Depends on what your get for power steering. That could be a frame modification.
You are asking about choices in axles and transfer case, sounds like drivetrain is not picked out yet, that could be more frame modification.

Paint and powdercoat are two different processes to apply two different coatings. Paint goes on as a liquid, cures as it dries. And there are all different kinds of paint. I don't mean colors, there are all different shades and colors as well. Some that should never be used on a vehicle (water colors, latex) and others that are good choices (Urethane and Enamel). Some are better for a final finish but would be a horrible chassis paint (lacquer). Or if you are trying to hide rust from the next owner, and you hope they don't know about it, shoot it with bed liner. So many different ways to go. And what are you trying to do? Win a custom car show where the frame is as clean as the perfect body? Or you just want something to cover the bare steel so it doesn't rust?

That was just paint. Powder coat goes on as a dry dust. Goes into an oven and is baked. Turns to liquid and the powder (powdered plastic) melts and flows out. Once cool it leaves a plastic shell over the steel. Nice, pretty durable, but still not perfect. Like paint, rust can creep in between. And you can't touch up powder coating. If chipped or gouged you are either getting it all stripped back to nothing and recoat from scratch, or you get a paint can and do a touch up.

As for best differentials, or so many good choices. How large is your budget? What are your plans for using it when done? How much power? How large of a tire? A Dana 30 might be a good choice for some, a Dana 44 is generally the go to choice, and the Dana 60 is the hard core option. Even then it also matters about getting the right one. Not any Dana 44 (for example) will work. Only one from from an early Bronco is a direct fit. Then there are the full width options.

And rear axle, countless flavors of the 9". From the mildest of the low GVW small bearing stock all the way to insane.

Transfer case. Again, what are your overall plans? Dana 20 that it came with is generally pretty good. Atlas has always been a go to choice for way better than stock. Most any modern chain drive transfer case (say 1980 and newer) is too wide to fit in the frame rails.
Sorry I was not clear. I am using the existing C4, TCase, Front and rear diffs. My question was on the coating for those, if any. Thank you for the frame coating info..!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,846
Powder is great for those, as long as they're fully disassembled and are to be fully cleaned afterwards.
The baking at 400 degrees dictates the first, and the sand blasting dictates the second.

The other thing is that if any off-roading is planned, then like was said earlier, powder is not as easy to touch up. It holds up well, but once chipped or gouged, touch-ups are often a little unsightly. If nothing more than street driving is planned, then powder can be just fine.
But paint is usually preferred for all of those reasons I think.

Paul
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,824
Powder coating is the more durable option.

Are you asking if the power steering box uses factory frame holes?
And are you asking if you should paint or powder coat the diffs and t case or?

for sure unless its something you want to touch up later after hitting some trails
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,824
Powder is great for those, as long as they're fully disassembled and are to be fully cleaned afterwards.
The baking at 400 degrees dictates the first, and the sand blasting dictates the second.

The other thing is that if any off-roading is planned, then like was said earlier, powder is not as easy to touch up. It holds up well, but once chipped or gouged, touch-ups are often a little unsightly. If nothing more than street driving is planned, then powder can be just fine.
But paint is usually preferred for all of those reasons I think.

yes sir, well said
 
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