Blue wire is hot, in On and Run.
So we have fire.
I assume this will go to the + side of the coil?
Yes. Positive side of the coil, AND to the Red wire from the distributor.
In this situation you can connect them all to the positive side of the coil and it acts as a common power source.
Then I can remove the red-green wire?
You "can" do that, if it's in the way. Or you can leave it, if that's easier.
It's not competing, and is just a backup power source if anything happens to the main one. If the Blue wire ever dies for some reason, it might run rough and try to die, but the Red w/green wire might just keep it running long enough to get home.
If there's some hole in that plan, I'm sure someone will know and point it out.
Problem is the screw to condenser is stripped and stuck.
Why is it always the small things!
I was just gonna cut the wires as leave it in there, as the ignitor fits in there fine.
But probably not the right thing to do.
Surprised there is room for both, but if so, and you can't get the screw/plate off, maybe it's not the end of the world.
Went to a smaller fuel filter to make a little more space.
How so? Is there a filter in the front of the carb, or is there an inline filter somewhere that's in the way? Smaller won't have as much filter area of course, but it should still get the job done. Would be a restriction on a high-performance engine maybe (or maybe not) but should be fine here.
You might end up changing it more often though.
Oh , and it highly likely the distributor might jacked up. Tried to pull it to work and stripped screw and it was locked in place. So if I have any timing issues, I suspect I'll have issues making adjustments.
Have a buddy coming to take a look, to see if we can free it.
Careful adding torque and kung-fu grip to the distributor if it's stuck. Start it soaking in penetrating oil right now so that it's had a chance to dig through and maybe disolve some of the corrosion and/or burned on oil that's holding it in place.
This was rarely a problem 30 years ago (on these particular engines at least), but now that they've sat in the same position on the same engine for the last 30 or so years without moving, it's going to come up more and more I'm sure.
It's a very common scenario on the 335 series engines however (351C, 351M and 400) and their distributors used to get stuck all the time. Many a distributor body was broken off inside the block while trying to remove them.
So finesse is the name of the game here. Soak, soak, soak in your favorite fluid distributor-loosener product and wait. Tap, tap, tap it with a hammer very lightly to send some shock loads into the body. Tap directly sideways, and tap in a "turning" rotational way against the vacuum advance (very gently!) boss on the side.
Muscle it a little bit here and there, but here again, don't play too rough with it just yet.
You might just get lucky and it pops right into submission. More often than not the 302's and 351W's release without carnage. Unlike the typical 351M that is.
Didn't check that.
Just on, and run.
I'll check "start' position as well.
Wouldnt think it would go cold when starting, but I'll double check.
Was thinking that's what you meant when you said "on and run" in the same sentence.
Officially speaking, so that we're on the same page, the active positions (besides OFF of course;D) are ACC, RUN and START. Sounds like you meant ACC (Accessory) and RUN?
So yes, power in START is fairly important. Not always critical, but it's a component of a properly operating ignition system.
Even if it does not have power in START, you can try it anyway to see how it works.
Oh, and the reason that many of the Accessory circuits don't have power in START is just the way the ignition switch is designed. They didn't want power surges and power drains going through the whole truck while the starter motor (the biggest power hog on a vehicle like this) was spinning so many of the circuits deactivate when the key is in the START position.
It's normal.
Paul
