Pistola... West Texas Bronco Buildup

[akb3]

Here's an update. Sorry. It's been several days of helping family members move furniture etc. I pulled all the rod bearings. They are all in perfect shape. Once again, I'm stumped. Does anyone know if it's possible to disengage the torque converter from the flexplate on a C-4 and push it back out of the way while you run the engine? If not, I'll have to drop the transmission to test that. I need to eliminate that next though. This is getting really discouraging now guys! Dynamite will be tried after the torque converter check I think.

 

[KS.76Sport]

Oh no's on the dynamite bro! You can get this done, jus take a break, cool off, you'll get there. Handing it over to a professional if the transmission check don't work might be the most reasonable course. Wont help the wallet, but it will help your sanity I should think.

 

[akb3]

Got it all buttoned back up and cranked it. Problem still there of course. But hasn't worsened. I'm still trying to figure out if I can set back the torque converter and hold it out of the way while I run the engine without dropping the transmission. Any ideas?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Not really. You may be able to get 1/8" of clearance but bad things will happen if the converter vibrates forward and shears the studs off the converter. Unbolting the trans and sliding it back won't help either because the starter won't be in the right place.

I have seen, one time, where one of the bolts that holds the bellhousing to the C4 (behind the converter) came loose and started rubbing on the converter. You can see marks on the converter by looking through the starter hole with a mirror and a light.

 

[akb3]

Thanks for the tip. I'll check that next.

 

[HGM]

Like Viper said, it could be something hitting the flexplate too. You could very well have a weight that's hitting something in there. But, you might be able to see it with the starter and inspection cover removed.. Look for witness marks.. As deep as you are, I'd be inclined to pull the converter and put the tranny back to start it, you wont need the transfer case, trans cooler or driveshafts to do this..

 

[SHOBRONCO]

updates?

Any updates?

 

[akb3]

None yet Mike. I'm in the process of taking the transmission out right now. Should have it out in the next couple of days. Then I'll crank it up again to see if I get the noise. If no noise, I'll know it's the TC. If I still have the noise, then I'll put everything back on and take off the driver's side head to check for valve tap.

 

[markperry]

You are killing us Keith what's new?

 

[akb3]

Have been busy with my job and other things lately but had a chance to drop the transmission yesterday. Fired it up and ................ Dammit! Not the problem. It can only be one other thing. I'm thinking that this block had to have been decked sometime in the 80's that I was never told about. I'm thinking I'm getting valve tapping. A thicker head gasket should fix that. Anyway, now I've got to bolt all this crap back on before I tear into the engine again. It'll probably be a couple or few weeks until I can get the work done. Still trying to keep a good attitude about this whole project. I feel that when the engine issue is fixed, I'll have a better outlook on the whole thing.

 

[akb3]

After looking closer, cleaning everything off, and turning the engine through by hand, I found it. A perfect pattern of the entire piston making contact with the head was plain as day. I figured the only thing that would make that possible would be a connecting rod longer than the others. Took out number 8 and number 7 and voila. I've got a 289 rod in my 302 number 8 cylinder. Needless to say, I'm pretty upset. All the BS that I've gone through to get this engine done right and it came from the engine shop with this problem. I've got to get this connecting rod switched out with the right one.

 

[stupidboy]

At least you found the problem after taking it apart..

 

[HGM]

Sounds like time for a cold one to celebrate finding the problem.. As bad as it is, it could have been much worse.. Glad you finally found it..

 

[akb3]

Yeah, you guys are right. At least there is a solution at this point. I just hope the company makes it right.

 

[BroncoBernie]

Rebuild

Wow!! Checked out your Bronco and just and amazing job you have done. Keep up the good work!!

 

[akb3]

Thanks BroncoBernie. I sure appreciate it. I'm ready to get this thing on the road. Hopefully it won't be long now. Since I have the engine back apart I'm going to do a couple of things I should have done before building it. I'm going to paint the water pump, re-bend the A/T cooler lines, and do some welding on my oil pan. I'm going to have my oil pan powder coated as well. Should know more about the bad connecting rod tomorrow.

 

[markperry]

Glad you found the problem Keith!

 

[akb3]

Took the riveted insert on the oil pan off and welded it on instead. I've been having leaks from the rivet holes. Took it to the powdercoating shop yesterday. We'll see how it turns out. Sent off the bad piston/rod assembly to City Motor Supply today. Hope to have it by Saturday. Plan is to have a running engine by the 18th.

 

[gnpenning]

Glad you found it Keith. Hope they make good on it for you. Always nice to know for sure.

 

[mnido]

Took the riveted insert on the oil pan off and welded it on instead. I've been having leaks from the rivet holes. Took it to the powdercoating shop yesterday. We'll see how it turns out. Sent off the bad piston/rod assembly to City Motor Supply today. Hope to have it by Saturday. Plan is to have a running engine by the 18th.

What type of welding process did you use ? I thought that piece was cast ??