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Please Help...Tranny Problem(s)

armynavy17

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Jan 9, 2010
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So I now only have first gear and neutral...which is really nice if you don't plan on going over 20mph. However, I do in fact need to go places and my bronco is my only means of transportation. I was sitting in the drive through in 4wd and figured since all the snow is almost melted that I would be fine in 2wd. So I did what I usually do to get it out of 4, I pulled forward and took it out of first and when I was about to come to a stop I slammed it into reverse and at the same time and tried to pushed it into 2wd, but it didn't work. Not a big problem, I didn't really care enough if I was in 4 or not to try it again. Anyways, I pulled up and got my food in 1st but when I left and tried to shift into 2nd, it didn't go in. I tried it a few more times and tried 3rd and reverse and of course, no go on any of them. My question is, what happened and how do I fix it? I have a Hurst floor shifter and I didn't hear anything out of the ordinary when I put it into reverse. I don't think it's a binding at the shifter and I can't move the linkage at the tranny. It almost starts to shift into 2nd and 3rd, but only a fraction of an inch at most. It doesn't even think of going into reverse. Also, if I need to pull the tranny or something I might just replace/upgrade to a 4 speed and I was wondering what would bolt up to a 302 and a D20 without changing anything? Thanks for reading my long post and I'll be online all of the time if I need to answer any questions.
 

hucklburry rev2

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Jan 17, 2006
Messages
772
If everything else was working ok before hand, no wierd noises, etc., I think your bound up some how. I am assuming you have a 3 speed manual with floor shifter. Something is out of wack, maybe your shift linkage is not really moving properly.

You have an odd way to get out of 4wd.

I'd play with it some more. From underneath can you chock the tires and get the tranny in nuetral, then get the transfercase into 2wd?
 

73azbronco

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Nov 11, 2007
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my vote based on how your slamming it is the linkage is not adjusted right, or loose.
 

beaux312

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Nov 10, 2007
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Loc.
Hartford, AL
sounds like your shifter is fouled up, my brother had trouble with his. A NP435 is the same length as the 3sp, no drive shaft mods and will bolt up to your bellhousing
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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If everything else was working ok before hand, no wierd noises, etc., I think your bound up some how. I am assuming you have a 3 speed manual with floor shifter. Something is out of wack, maybe your shift linkage is not really moving properly.

You have an odd way to get out of 4wd.

I'd play with it some more. From underneath can you chock the tires and get the tranny in nuetral, then get the transfercase into 2wd?

It doesn't really seem to mater if I'm in neutral or not in regards to shifting the T-case. The only other way I have found to shift it is to rock back and forth while pushing on the lever, but it's kind of hard to do in some places. The tranny sifts just fine from neutral to 1st and back. I'm kinda thinking it's not the linkage because when I try to shift into 3rd or reverse with the shifter, it strains the linkage like it is stuck at the tranny and being pulled on by the shifter. I am in no way an expert on the situation though.
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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If it is my linkage, how would I go about adjusting it right? I know to remove the pins and spin the linkage to adjust back and forth but how do I know how much to adjust. The shifter doesn't seem to hit anything that would stop it.
 

DirtDonk

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What t-case? J-shift or T-shift?
To verify the trans linkage, you may just have to get underneath and disconnect the two rods from the levers/arms. Then find neutral in both arms so that everything is centered and un-bound. From there you should be able to get either arm into either gear.
When you try to shift into reverse, is it just not moving, or is it grinding? Reason I ask is that it's not unusual for you to only be able to shift into two gears, but very unusual to only get one. You either get First and Revers, OR Second and Third. This only going into First thing is strange. Hopefully it's just the external linkage though, and nothing internal.

Good luck.
Oh, and find out why you need to go through such gyrations to shift the t-case. No way should you have to jam it into reverse to get anything to shift. A t-shift with good adjustment and clean oil should shift like butter. A J-shift with tight linkage is not much worse, but once the linkage gets worn they can be pretty recalcitrant shifters.

Paul
 

hucklburry rev2

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Jan 17, 2006
Messages
772
What dirt said. I'd chock it and crawl underneath with some channel locks. There are 2 tabsarms, one for 1/rev and one for 2nd/3rd. I think the 2nd/3rd one is not "centered" or "in nuetral", so its bound up. If you can check that, and get it into "nuetral", I think you'll be fine.
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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What t-case? J-shift or T-shift?
To verify the trans linkage, you may just have to get underneath and disconnect the two rods from the levers/arms. Then find neutral in both arms so that everything is centered and un-bound. From there you should be able to get either arm into either gear.
When you try to shift into reverse, is it just not moving, or is it grinding? Reason I ask is that it's not unusual for you to only be able to shift into two gears, but very unusual to only get one. You either get First and Revers, OR Second and Third. This only going into First thing is strange. Hopefully it's just the external linkage though, and nothing internal.

Good luck.
Oh, and find out why you need to go through such gyrations to shift the t-case. No way should you have to jam it into reverse to get anything to shift. A t-shift with good adjustment and clean oil should shift like butter. A J-shift with tight linkage is not much worse, but once the linkage gets worn they can be pretty recalcitrant shifters.

Paul

It doesn't grind when trying to get into reverse, it just doesn't move. I have a T-shift. I'll go try unhooking the linkage like suggested, I'll report back as soon as I find anything out.
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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So when I can put it into first just as easy with or without the linkage hooked up. It still almost just barley goes in to 2nd with or with out. And it goes into 3rd almost just barley with the clutch pushed in with or without. Reverse doesn't even budge its way with or without linkage. So overall, there is no change with the linkage unhook compared to hooked up. Does this mean it's internal? :( Let me know if anyone has any other ideas, I'll pretty much try anything.
 

DirtDonk

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Unfortunately, yes, it means it's internal. If you're lucky, it still could be just something with the pills in their detents not quite letting go, but it sounds as if reverse is jammed up from your last shift.
You can easily feel when the 1st/reverse arm is in it's center position then? If it's centered, the 2-3 arm should easily slip between gears. Since not, perhaps the 1st/rev shift fork has slid off-center of the shift shaft.

Have you ever changed your trans' gear oil out? You might be doing this soon as you have to dig into the box. Hopefully someone here will be able to speak from experience that it's only a shifted shaft, or an old bound up detent ball and spring, but I'm thinking not.
As a DD, this sucks and I can relate. But it sounds like there is a quickie rebuild in your future. And a weekend is coming up fast!

Good luck. I'm still holding out for better news.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Hmm, I wonder if you tried putting it in first and taking off quickly, if it would twist things up inside in the opposite direction from your reverse-dump in the parking lot? I don't know if it can hurt to try or not.
I'm just thinking that perhaps with an old trans like this, perhaps it was just loose enough for things to twist out of shape enough to bind when you jammed it in reverse. If so, maybe they'll un-bind when you do the opposite.

Kind'a grasping at straws here though. You probably already did that in sheer frustration when it first happened!

Paul
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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Well thanks for the help, it is obvious when 1st/rev is in its center position. I did change out the tranny oil not more than 2 months ago so it shouldn't be too bad if I have to open it up. I'll try taking off quickly here in a few before ripping it open. I can still get places...just very slowly, so at least I'm not totally stranded. I'll report back. Again, thanks for the help. Anyone know of a good place to get a rebuild kit?
 

Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
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10,872
Where I would start I would climb under the truck and jack up the wheels. Then I would disconnect the trans linkage and get the tranny levers in the proper place for neutral. Then I would shift the shifter into neutral. Most hurst shifters in neutral you put a pin through the body of the shifter in neutral. This lines up all the shifter mechanism for the proper place for neutral. with the tranny in neutral and the shifter locked in neutral reinstall the shift rods. Some shift rods had plastic bushing in the tranny levers and some owner have made every concoction of rods pins and bearings. What ever the rods need to fit snuggly in the proper holes. The early hurst shifters are noted for jamming when the shift linkage gets out of wack.
I have also seen where these shifters get jammed up and need to be disassembled, cleaned and regreased. Its all good stuff just working in a harsh evironment. You should be able to find help with the shifter on the web. I wouldn't touch the tranny or transfer case until you verify that all the shifter linkages are working properly. And that the clutch is releasing properly.
P.S. your method of shifting the transfer case is dead wrong your lucky you haven't spread the transfercase all over the highway.
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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Where I would start I would climb under the truck and jack up the wheels. Then I would disconnect the trans linkage and get the tranny levers in the proper place for neutral. Then I would shift the shifter into neutral. Most hurst shifters in neutral you put a pin through the body of the shifter in neutral. This lines up all the shifter mechanism for the proper place for neutral. with the tranny in neutral and the shifter locked in neutral reinstall the shift rods. Some shift rods had plastic bushing in the tranny levers and some owner have made every concoction of rods pins and bearings. What ever the rods need to fit snuggly in the proper holes. The early hurst shifters are noted for jamming when the shift linkage gets out of wack.
I have also seen where these shifters get jammed up and need to be disassembled, cleaned and regreased. Its all good stuff just working in a harsh evironment. You should be able to find help with the shifter on the web. I wouldn't touch the tranny or transfer case until you verify that all the shifter linkages are working properly. And that the clutch is releasing properly.
P.S. your method of shifting the transfer case is dead wrong your lucky you haven't spread the transfercase all over the highway.

When I'm under the truck manipulating the tranny levers by hand the only one that shifts is 1st/rev from neutral into 1st. It doesn't even budge towards rev, 2nd/3rd only move slightly into either position. The shifter moves like it used to when it's not hooked up to the tranny so I assume it's operating correctly, correct me if I'm wrong. I did try going in first quickly and it didn't change anything. Please don't get me wrong, I want to try anything that doesn't involve pulling apart the tranny, but from what I can see, everything is pointing to the insides not the linkage. Again, any ideas are welcome.
 

Viperwolf1

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When I'm under the truck manipulating the tranny levers by hand the only one that shifts is 1st/rev from neutral into 1st. It doesn't even budge towards rev, 2nd/3rd only move slightly into either position. The shifter moves like it used to when it's not hooked up to the tranny so I assume it's operating correctly, correct me if I'm wrong. I did try going in first quickly and it didn't change anything. Please don't get me wrong, I want to try anything that doesn't involve pulling apart the tranny, but from what I can see, everything is pointing to the insides not the linkage. Again, any ideas are welcome.

Disconnect the shift rods then try moving the levers. Could be the shifter is jammed up.
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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I've tried it both with and without the shift linkage hooked up. I'll try channel locks when I get a chance.
 
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armynavy17

armynavy17

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No luck on the channel locks. I ended up pulling the tranny and all today and it just so happens that when you break parts in a tranny, it doesn't work right anymore. One of the inserts that goes into the hub to keep the snap ring in place broke allowing the snap ring to come out part of the way. That kept the 1st/rev selector from going all the way into nuetral which kept 2nd/3rd from shifting into 2nd or 3rd all the way. It was also in the way of 1st/rev going into reverse at all. Now I just need to get the rest of the insert out and put a new one in. Any ideas on how to get it out?
 

RolledItAgain

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Nov 16, 2003
Messages
461
Thought I'd bring this to the top as I'm having the same issue with the 2nd-3rd lever being jammed. Were you able to get it fixed? I just had the trans out to fix a clutch rub issue and am not looking forward to pulling it again.
I've unhooked the linkage and found the 2nd to 3rd lever on the trans is stuck. Shoot.....
 
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