Possible Fuel System Problem

[Mark Sommer]

I am looking to purchase a 1974 EB that has not run for 3 years. He wants $2,200. Some mods have been completed, but he is not sure what. I have seen it and it is rusted in all the typical EB locations. I am going to offer a firm $1,500. The person I am purchasing it from stated that then it died, it acted like if ran out of fuel. How does the dual tank Broncos operate? Is there a solenoid that when switched activates the secondary tank? If so, how do you check if the solenoid has gone bad?

What should the fuel pressure for the stock tank application?
If it is not within the specific range, is the pump the only component that can cause the low pressure?
Please recommend a kit to replace the fuel pump.
I know that it has an aftermarket carburetor, so rebuilding the carburetor might be needed also.

Also knowing the EB has sat for 3 year, what else should I look to replace/rebuild?

Thanks for all the help, I am looking forward to this purchase, but don't want to get taken to the cleaners.
Mark

 

[Steve]

First things first. DO NOT simply try to start it. Here's what I'd do to start it:

Day 1:

1. Drain all old gas. It will definitely be bad after 3 years.
2. Pull all spark plugs. Squirt one or two squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder.
3. Change oil and filter.
4. Check all other fluids.

Day 2 (or after):

1. Pull distributor and spin the oil pump with an electric drill to get good oil pressure. Reinstall distributor.
2. Replace fuel filter.
3. Turn the motor over a few times and then install new spark plugs.
4. As long as you have new gas and there are no other problems it should now be ready to start without damaging anyting internal.

For your questions:

The valve that switches gas tanks is manually operated. It is on the seat riser under the front of the driver's seat. You can get a new fuel pump from just about any auto parts store. The same is true for the fuel filter. With a carb it should be around 5 psi. And yes, you may have to rebuild the carb if the fuel has gummed up the inside of it.

 

[Mark Sommer]

What do you think about the price? I am not sure what is stock and what is not. Water has been leaking into the interior and now the floor pans a shot. He does not know anything about EB's and seam to be unrealistic on the price. Am I off base? I plan on getting some photos this week, I will upload some of them for review.

Mark

 

[Steve]

Without a bunch of pics I con't comment on price. It also depends a lot on what you can do yourself. Generally, body work, esp. replacing rusted out panels, is lots more expensive than mechanical work.

 

[Mark Sommer]

Manually turn over the motor?

 

[Scoop]

Price really depends on overall condition but if just the floor boards are rusted and everthing is pretty much there, then $2200 is not an unrealistic price. Check out what EBs are going for on eBay!

It's especially not a bad price if it has an auto tranny and has power steering - both are sought after and can be expensive to add to one that did not come with them.

Can you post some pics? How are the door and striker posts? Top in good condition? What do you plan to do with it? Street? Street/trail? Trail only? Stock restoration? In your other post you said you had about $2000 to do upgrades - I always start with brakes, then engine, then other mods! Good luck.

 

[Dan's73]

Just saw that someone had beat me to the info I posted, guess I type too slow. As for price: as mentioned it's relative and without more info & pics is hard to judge. Best of luck to you!

 

[Mark Sommer]

Additional Information Forthcoming

I will get additional information and post photos soon. I plan to go streettrail, doors sag a little but close tight. It has a soft top. It is lifted and has some modifications done. I will verify if the Power steering is intact. It was a 3 speed on the column, but has been changed to a floor shift automatic transmission. From what I am hearing, I should jump on this deal.

 

[Mark Sommer]

More questions...

Do I need anything special to do this? Will I need to drop the oil pan?

Pull distributor and spin the oil pump with an electric drill to get good oil pressure. Reinstall distributor.



I believe that the stock pump is in the tank, if this is correct, is there a kit that you can use to replace it or is it better to replace it with an after market pump and just leave the stock pump in place.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Skiddy]

Do I need anything special to do this? Will I need to drop the oil pan?
Pull distributor and spin the oil pump with an electric drill to get good oil pressure. Reinstall distributor.



I believe that the stock pump is in the tank, if this is correct, is there a kit that you can use to replace it or is it better to replace it with an after market pump and just leave the stock pump in place.

Thanks
Mark

No need to drop the oil pan just drain it from the drain plug.
Pull distributor and spin the oil pump with an electric drill to get good oil pressure. Yes in reverse rotation
If it is the stock pump it will be on the drivers side of the engine block

 

[Mark Sommer]

The oil pump will be on the drivers side of the engine block, how long should I spin it, 2 to 3 minutes, I want to make sure I get oil to where it is needed.

 

[Skiddy]

The oil pump will be on the drivers side of the engine block, how long should I spin it, 2 to 3 minutes, I want to make sure I get oil to where it is needed.

No that's were the fuel pump is. The oil pump shaft is connected to the distributer shaft after you remove it you can get a long extension on your drill I think it's 1/4" but some else will know for sure, make sure you tape your extension connections as you don't want them to fall into the crankcase. You will need a pretty Strong drill in reverse for 2-3 minutes would be fine also if you can get someone to watch the oil pressure Gage then you will know you are getting good oil pressure.
hope that helps

 

[Mark Sommer]

Tons of help, that is why I asked. Is there a place that I can get a diagram of the 302 engine?