Power Window Removable Door Wire Pass-Thru

[RonJones]

Anyone have experience passing wires into the door with power windows? I’d used .093 Molex for speaker wires, but that connector is limited to about 10 Amps. I recall someone considering Weather Pack connectors, which are good to 20 Amps, but a 4 lead connector is pretty large, and I’m not sure it’ll fit in there. Add 2 leads for speakers and it’s even bigger.

 

[needsmoarturbo]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hHwwqO3xp-rA-FHn8TAV4KiS3fTqtFF8aAjUzEALw_wcB
Haven't used them but I think they look promising

 

[RonJones]

I’ve seen those, but they require a pretty large rectangular hole and the door/door support alignment has to be pretty close as the pin’s landing pad is only 1/4” tall.

 

[Steve83]

A window motor should only draw ~8A. And if you put the switches on the dash (or anywhere in the body), you'd only need 2 terminals per door for the window motors.

 

[needsmoarturbo]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...yCaBcCGC8R-B7QizCHwX9eqVBfb8YrQUaApudEALw_wcB
There a 2 terminal so smaller hole and it sounds like they are adjustible. Your door gaps shouldn't be changing once adjusted, so I'd adjust first then install.
I'm sticking with crank windows though, so I'll probably never figure these out unless I use for speakers.

 

[Madgyver]

How often do you remove your doors? This was an issue when I did my power windows on the firebronco. I used 2 pin weather paks and went through the door post. if I removed the doors a lot, i would of skipped going through the hinge post and have a wire loom from inside (cab side) side of door to under dash.

 

[RonJones]

Steve83, the 30 Amp fuse on both the BC Broncos wiring diagram and the prebuilt harness I bought kind of made me think they were more than 8 Amp, but I didn’t know they used that low of current. I could try measuring current no load, but I imagine draw goes up with window load, so it might be misleading data.

Madgyver, did the two pin WeatherPack fit ok?

I only take the doors off and on once or twice a year.

I’m unsure where to put the switches inside - space is getting limited. Kick panel, front of Tuffy console? I was hoping to use the crank switches, too - so those would end up getting sold.

The harness I bought has a relatively small 4 pin connector that might fit between door & post, and I was leaning towards a separate 2 pin Molex again for the speakers.

Here’s the harness:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3X19FJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mbhaddad]

I've gotta figure this out too but have about 8 wires to pass through.

An old thread here from 2013 shows wild horses used to sell a door strap. I came across some threads more recently which indicated they were no longer sold but they are showing up on the website now with a "new" tag. It seems like a simple solution that jeep uses
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226041

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Custom-Door-Straps/Bronco_Door_Parts_66-67

 

[Steve83]

...the 30 Amp fuse on both the BC Broncos wiring diagram and the prebuilt harness I bought kind of made me think they were more than 8 Amp, but I didn’t know they used that low of current. I could try measuring current no load, but I imagine draw goes up with window load...

It does, but at no-load, it's probably closer to 3A. The fuse sized is for ALL the window motors, assuming you try to roll them all up at the same time, and they're all loaded (as with ice, or kids pushing them down, or something caught in them). And it's sized for 4 doors, and possibly for some other minor loads on the same circuit.

If you measure a modern window motor at full-stall, it should be around 8A max.

 

[RonJones]

Awesome - I’m going with the wire straps!