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Pulling engine...need tips

Nickm1024cobra

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2014
Messages
362
Loc.
Chicago Burbs
Im unfortunately going to have to pull my motor later this month. I've pulled a few, but never in a lifted EB. Trying to figure out how to get it out.

If I do it in my shop I am going to have to get the front end much lower. It looks like if I take the tires off and put jack stands under the front axle they will be hitting the legs of the engine hoist when I am trying to wiggle the hoist in. Other option, get big jack stands to support frame right behind front bumper might be option?

Air the tires all the way down? Total of 5.5" of lift and 35" tires.

Also...will i want to unbolt tcase crossmember to slide trans back an inch or two?

Open to some feedback here...
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
34,960
Don't unbolt the crossmember just to slide the trans back. Lots of wasted work. Unbolt it only if you plan to remove the transmission and transfer case with the engine (my preferred method).

As for clearing the grill, that is dependent on your engine hoist. Some will go tall enough on there own, no big deal. Others will have clearance issues, maybe not tall enough, maybe the legs are too tall to clear the front axle? That is a case by case per engine hoist answer, not a one size fits all. You have to be creative on your own. The answer may be to take the front springs out and set the frame on the bumpstops and park the front tires on top of wood blocks to get the engine hoist to clear the axle? Maybe you just need a different engine hoist?

Few other tips. If an automatic, the convertor stays in the transmission. You risk bending the input shaft and/or the innards of the torque convertor if you try to be lazy and keep the convertor on the engine. You need to take it off anyway to line it up when things go back together. Save yourself potential damage and just undo the 4 nuts before separating the engine.

Soak exhaust bolts in rust penetrate before you start and still expect them to put up a fight.
 

jcasey12

Newbie
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
30
Hopefully it won't come to this, but when I pulled the stock 302 out of my 70 Bronco, it wouldn't quite clear the grill-----I ended up taking off the oil pan while the engine was hanging over the engine bay and was able to get it out with some careful maneuvering of the engine. I had also let the air out of the front tires.
 

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
I took the tires off and sat the discs / hubs on wood 6x6 blocks
4d9861c16d5d1886046966c0cab1b995.jpg


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ryan97

Full Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
195
Loc.
Richmond
If height is not an issue, I borrowed a buddies forklift and lifted it out of my 73. Did it in a barn so height was not an issue like it would be in a garage.
 

FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
1,434
Loc.
Polk County, Missouri
Remove the tires all together and use some bottomed out properly weight rated jack stands. But it that is still to high, use 4x4 blocks of wood under the front axle to keep the disk/drum just barely off the ground. Chock the rear wheels so it does not roll or slide off the wooden blocks when yanking on it.

Have the cross chain in the "as short as possible setting" diagonally across the intake manifold. Using opposite head bolts, NOT a CARB plate, ditch the engine leveler to get it even shorter.

Start soaking every bolt you want to remove with PB blaster, especially the exhaust manifold/header to head bolts. And or the manifold stud nuts...

Have fun, take pics.
 
Last edited:

roundhouse

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 5, 2003
Messages
2,886
Looking at the above pic....I have disc brakes.



You think it is safe to rest the front end on the disc brake backing plates?


I wouldn't rest it on the backing plates

Hard to see in the pic
But it's resting on the hub area of the brake rotor

Right under where the wheel bolts on

Or use some blocks under the axle


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