PVS elbow mount? what is this called does anyone have this part?

[gws34]

Looking for help and this forum has been a great source if info for me.

i have a 1975 bronco. 302 engine, manual trans,

I am another one who is trying to restore the emissions and vacuum lines back to "original". Previous owner has removed all of the parts.

I am looking for the part that is marked in this drawing 18559. Can anyone help with what the part would be called or if anyone knows where i can get this part.

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.

This is my first time posting and I do know if the image will properly display.

Also if anyone can let me know what "color or tempature rating each of those PVS should be that are connected to this part. Again I have none of the parts and am trying to piece the system back together.

Thanks

 

[gws34]

https://glensears.wixsite.com/portf...-de72380a1989/1/?i=1&p=nexa7&s=style-jqed56bt

 

[gws34]

image posted

https://glensears.wixsite.com/portf...-de72380a1989/1/?i=1&p=nexa7&s=style-jqed56bt

 

[Hozr]

Are you sure that isn't a heater/AC elbow?

part #9 in post #4 here

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1344476-manifold-heater-hose-elbow.html

 

[gws34]

It is the elbow but it has 2 other "ports" on it for the 2 ported vacuum switches for the 75 emissions. I have never found one with the two other holes.

Thanks
Glen

 

[Hozr]

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1995-ford-f-150-coolant-sensor-housing

 

[Hozr]

Looks like it's scrap yard time unless someone has one sitting on a shelf hiding

 

[BroncoChicken]

No kidding, I think I have one on my original ‘75 intake. I’ll go look in a few minutes.

 

[gws34]

I guess it looks closest to the type 9 water heater elbow i that post. will keep looking. thanks

 

[BroncoChicken]

I’m your huckleberry. The coolant port is a little rusty on the end, shouldn’t be too tough to cut and braze on a new piece if it matters to you. PM me.

 

[DirtDonk]

Can you tell what color the plastics used to be? Looks like they might both be black, but hard to tell.

Paul

 

[BroncoChicken]

I think probably black, but can’t tell you for sure because it’s in the mail to it’s new home.

 

[gws34]

Thanks for the part broncochicken! it looks like the Ported Vacuum switch is tan or dark brown. It has a black coating on it but looks like a different color underneath.

 

[gws34]

So the next issue I am having is that hooking it all up like the picture from earlier in this post. I now have vacuum at the distributor even at idle? I can not figure out what is the issue. I did purchase all new Ported vacuum switches. I know that there are comments about where the vacuum should be attached to the carb, but i followed where this drawing showed it. Any help would be appreciated. I also have a question about the hook up with the Thermactor setup but that is a separate issue I believe.

 

[BroncoChicken]

I’m no help. All of the original connections were “modified” by my grandpa’s farm hands.

 

[tirewater]

So the next issue I am having is that hooking it all up like the picture from earlier in this post. I now have vacuum at the distributor even at idle? I can not figure out what is the issue. I did purchase all new Ported vacuum switches. I know that there are comments about where the vacuum should be attached to the carb, but i followed where this drawing showed it. Any help would be appreciated. I also have a question about the hook up with the Thermactor setup but that is a separate issue I believe.

It's not too hard. One PVS is for the distributor, the other is for the EGR valve. The distributor PVS has three nipples. You'll have to figure out which nipple goes where, but it's port vacuum, manifold vacuum, vacuum advance on distributor. The other PVS is the EGR one, it's attached to port vacuum, and then EGR valve.

As an edit, the PVS are temperature switches, and need to be matched correctly. The vacuum advance PVS is going to be ~225, as it increase vacuum (to increase timing, which increase idle) when the engine gets to hot. I've forgotten off hand the temperature of the EGR PVS, I may have listed it in my build thread - but it was much lower than the distributor one.

 

[Pruneda]

So the next issue I am having is that hooking it all up like the picture from earlier in this post. I now have vacuum at the distributor even at idle? I can not figure out what is the issue. I did purchase all new Ported vacuum switches. I know that there are comments about where the vacuum should be attached to the carb, but i followed where this drawing showed it. Any help would be appreciated. I also have a question about the hook up with the Thermactor setup but that is a separate issue I believe.

1st off @gws34 if you need to know exactly where they go..I can likely take some pics or make a diagram for you.

Secondly, stumbled upon this am im literally dealing with the 'PVS Elbow Mount' in my '76 Bronco (CA Emissions.) I was looking for one just like you and had someone find one in their parts bin. Issue of mine now is I direly need the Ported Vacuum Switches (Both are Part# Base Identifiers of 8A564.) The 2-Port one (PN#: D5DE-A1A) Broke while 'extracting.' The 3-Port one (PN#: D5ZE-A2A) was successfully removed but as this is California we want to replace them both. We purchased the sole available 2-Port one we could find online (most are discontinued through aftermarket support and OEM I couldnt find,) so I ordered the only one with listed cross references and it was the Wells E928 Switch Interrupter. While it has two ports, the threading is way too big. We ordered the 3-Port from RockAuto (Green Plastic housing,) and its yet to be delivered but we are worried itll be the same case. Any help on where you got them? (Worst case still have that 2-Port one laying around?) Thanks for any information! (Need that line routing info?)

Attaching a few photos to help paint the picture (and maybe help someone else down the road!)

https://imgur.com/FNAPSnQ
https://imgur.com/VE0LtKm

-Nick

 

[El Kabong]

It's been so long I couldn't remember the proper function of the thing. Looking around I found this:
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/7p1083.html

This little device may not appear to be all that important, but it has a big job to do when your engine gets too hot. The threaded end looks a bit like an engine temperature sensor, and that's because it is. It's normally mounted on the intake manifold or engine block where it can sense coolant temperature.

The three ports at the other end are for vacuum connections. One goes to manifold vacuum, another to carburetor vacuum, and the third goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor. At normal engine temperatures, the distributor gets ported vacuum, which is 0 psi at idle. During extended idling on a hot day in bumper to bumper traffic, the engine temperature can start to rise pretty fast, especially with air conditioning on. That's when this little device goes to work. When engine temperatures reach about 225 degrees, this switch changes the distributor vacuum advance source from ported to manifold vacuum, which is high at idle. This advances the timing and engine rpm increases.

The result is increased radiator fan speed and coolant flow through the engine and radiator, which tends to bring the temperature down. Once the sensor determines the coolant temperatures have dropped to a safe level, it reverts back to ported vacuum and the engine timing returns to normal, returning the idle rpm to its normal setting.

Chances are most people have never even noticed when this device is protecting their engine, they just notice that the temperature gauge drops a bit, or the HOT light on the instrument panel extinguishes.

To test, there are two steps to take. First, with the engine running at normal temperature, unplug the manifold vacuum source from the valve and plug the line. Engine rpm should remain steady. If it drops 100 rpm or so, the valve is bad and should be replaced.

If it passes the first test, attach the manifold vacuum line to the valve again and cover the radiator sufficiently to induce a high temperature condition. Keep a close eye on the temperature gauge or warning light. Once the gauge needle rises to the upper limit or the light comes on, you should have noticed an increase in engine idle speed of at least 100 rpm. If not, the valve is bad and should be replaced.

WARNING: Do not allow the engine to overheat while testing. Uncover radiator and raise idle slightly until engine temperature drops before shutting off engine.

 

[JR.BONNER]

Pruneda, Are actually in need of that part as well or some other part in the system?
I have a stock 75 motor in shop.... wait for it... from California. I believe I have saved everything off of it. Send me a pm with specifics... see if I can help you out.