Question about installing new Radius Arm Bushings

[norm02]

Hey everyone,

I was planning on replacing all of the front suspension bushings this winter since it's normally too cold to drive it much and I won't mind it being down for a week or two. However, I just noticed that the Radius Arms are not tightly secured to the frame anymore and I'd like to fix this before I drive the truck again.

I know that replacing the C bushings requires A LOT of work but I wasn't sure if the Radius Arm bushings (where they connect to the frame) required as much disassembly to replace them. Is it possible to replacing them without having to take the front axle loose? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[73AnneBoleyn]

I don't recall the c bushings taking that much work, but then again, I changed them when I did my drum to disk conversion. As far as not having to drop the front axle, I'm not sure you'd have much luck with that. You've got coil springs, shocks, and brake lines that would all be helping hold that axle where it is. Granted, you only need it to move forward a couple of inches, but still.

I guess the answer is, give it a try, but be prepared to loosen some things up in order to move the axle a bit. Someone on here with more experience may have another suggestion...

 

[BR549]

Hey norm. On the scale of all things to do on you bronco, this wasn't that difficult as I remember it. Spray it all with wd-40 several times and let it do its job. I would have loved at least 2 longer bolts to help pull up the c bushings, but did it with the originals Do one at a time. I used stock rubber c bushings which might have made the front easier. Also I remember using a simple ratchet strap

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as mentioned, start soaking all the nuts and bolts. I needed longer bolts to get the cap started on the c bushing end. You do need to get the axle forward to r+r the strut rod bushing. I needed new nuts and washers back there. I used my come a long to move the axle. Good luck

 

[Rustytruck]

You will have to disconnect the springs, shocks and the track bar. Then roll one side at a time to remove and replace the donuts. You might need a come along or large ratchet strap to pull the axle back in place enough to get the castle nut started. Biggest issue is getting the frame high enough to unload the front springs especially if you have a lift.

 

[spap]

You can probably do it that way, but if you get it back together and then have a the bronco lean to the drivers side, you will have to start all over again. If you going to that much work I would replace everything c bush with the radius bushings
Pull the front axle install the front c bushings and make sure it is square to the floor and then reinstall it. Just my .02 that worth just that .02

 

[WheelHorse]

It really isn't as bad as you think.

I bought a tub of this stuff: Energy Suspension 9.11104 8 Oz Tub Of Lubricant

It really helped when drawing up the radius arm caps.

 

[bronconut73]

You can probably do it that way, but if you get it back together and then have a the bronco lean to the drivers side, you will have to start all over again. If you going to that much work I would replace everything c bush with the radius bushings
Pull the front axle install the front c bushings and make sure it is square to the floor and then reinstall it. Just my .02 that worth just that .02

/\/\This/\/\

.02 cents you should heed.

 

[rtreinen]

Did this 2 weeks ago, right before leaving for an off road weekend. Removed nut on one radius arm and loosened the other side to a couple of threads left. Used front mounted winch and pulled axle forward. You have to pull approxiamately 6". Installed bushings and cumalonged it back in place. Did the other side the same. The only thing was I should have disconnected the passenger shock. With 3.5 lift on stock spring mount bent the shock cylinder. Took about 2 hours to do.

 

[Skiddy]

You will have to disconnect the springs, shocks and the track bar. Then roll one side at a time to remove and replace the donuts. You might need a come along or large ratchet strap to pull the axle back in place enough to get the castle nut started. Biggest issue is getting the frame high enough to unload the front springs especially if you have a lift.

that's kind of how I did mine.
took shock bolts out on the radius arms
removed track bar at bottom
come along in come along out

 

[mpboxer]

Hey everyone,

I was planning on replacing all of the front suspension bushings this winter since it's normally too cold to drive it much and I won't mind it being down for a week or two. However, I just noticed that the Radius Arms are not tightly secured to the frame anymore and I'd like to fix this before I drive the truck again.

It's hard to tell, but are you referring to that little gap on the front donut? Can you just tighten up your castle nut more to get you by until winter when you replace all bushings. What about buying two nyloc or crimped nuts and removing the castle nuts all together if the cotter pins are ineffective after tightening then nuts.

 

[norm02]

I talked to a shop that I've worked with for years and had them send me a quote to have the work done. They quoted me ~$300 to replace all of the bushings so I think I'll let them have it for that price.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BR549]

While they are at it have them check /replace the track bar bushings. Death wobbles aren't fun. Good call norm.

 

[Boss Hugg]

I don't like to see people outsource work that can be done at home, but I understand sometimes we don't have time to dedicate to it.

For future reference, as someone mentioned above, if you do one side at a time, you risk the "bronco lean." The best way to get it right the first time is to have both radius arms out of the frame brackets and that end of them on the floor as you tighten up the C's. As you tighten them up they will move the end of the arm and you can adjust as you go by tightening different bolts until they are all tight with the ends of both arms touching the floor. Then it shouldn't be too hard to pull the arms back into the brackets and tighten them up. And reassemble the rest. I honestly think the most challenging part of this whole thing is started the spring retainer bolts in the C and arm...thru the coil spring... but it's not that difficult. Patience is helpful.

 

[norm02]

While they are at it have them check /replace the track bar bushings. Death wobbles aren't fun. Good call norm.

I did the Track Bar bushings a while back so all good there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[norm02]

I don't like to see people outsource work that can be done at home, but I understand sometimes we don't have time to dedicate to it.

For future reference, as someone mentioned above, if you do one side at a time, you risk the "bronco lean." The best way to get it right the first time is to have both radius arms out of the frame brackets and that end of them on the floor as you tighten up the C's. As you tighten them up they will move the end of the arm and you can adjust as you go by tightening different bolts until they are all tight with the ends of both arms touching the floor. Then it shouldn't be too hard to pull the arms back into the brackets and tighten them up. And reassemble the rest. I honestly think the most challenging part of this whole thing is started the spring retainer bolts in the C and arm...thru the coil spring... but it's not that difficult. Patience is helpful.

Yeah it is more of a time issue than being able to do it myself. I work six days a week and I'd rather spend my day off with my kids than doing this particular job. If this was going to be more expensive then I'd knock it myself but I'll gladly spend $300 (for this job) if it frees up time for me to spend with my wife and kids.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk