Go over to Pirate and search, tons of info there. Just don't post up in the Gen4X4 forum unless you want a pummeling. While you're there look for the 4-link calculator, then study up on it.
As for why people don't usually link the front, its mostly due to steering geometry. Unless you go full hydro, the axle travel needs to match the steering travel or you'll get terrible bumpsteer. That's why people always say you need to keep the trac bar and drag link closely matched in angle, length, etc. With a triangulated 4-link or wishbone 3-link, the axle moves straight up and down as the suspension cycles, but the end of the drag link travels in an arc, creating bumpsteer. The trac bar makes the axle travel in an arc too, keeping it in phase with the drag link. To avoid this with a triangulated 4-link, you have to either go full hydro or add more linkages and bellcranks to the steering setup. Since the radius arms and trac bar work reasonably well with long arms, wristed arms, WAH, etc., most folks keep it that way and call it good. You can do an asymetric 3-link (2 links on one side, one link on the other, with a track bar) and get great flex although many who've done this find they also need a sway bar to control body roll. Hey you're in Dothan AL, mosey on over to BTF and you can learn all you want about linked suspensions.
Dusty
