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Rear pinion yoke - preload and/or crush sleeve required?

Banjer Picker

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 25, 2006
Messages
1,366
Planning to replace the pinion seal on the rear differential (9”).

When I finish and am replacing the yoke, are there any special requirements such as a crush washer and/or pre-loads to be aware of or is it a matter of simply putting the yoke back on the splines and tightening to torque spec?

Thank you!

Brandon
 

Timmy390

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,760
Loc.
Conway, AR
I feel this is a really good write up on it. Everyone has their own little ways but this covers the needs.
https://itstillruns.com/change-ford-9inch-rear-end-7359683.html

I've done a few and hate it. Screw up and you have to start over with a new crush sleeve so take it SLOW when reinstalling the pinion nut. That's why when I rebuild a rear I always go "solid spacer" and omit the crush sleeve.

I even went solid spacer on my Samurai 3rd's

Tim
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
If your only replacing the seal I would mark the nut to the end of the pinion shaft and torque back to where the marks line up using loctite. but replace anything like the yolk the nut anything and you have a crap shoot on what is good enough. I am sure your differential is no longer in spec for set-up due to wear. anything that changes its current set-up places the gear mesh in different places and produces a whole new set of variables. Dammed if you do dammed if you don't. hundreds of axle seals have been replaced and some get away with it and some don't. you just gotta do what you have to do. your best shot take your old crush sleeve and measure it and set up a solid spacer at that size and go with it. the set-up is worn loose and will stay that way. setting up a used set of gears like a new set is a crap shoot too. If your going to do that get backlash specs for what you got and check and photograph the wear patterns. then cross your fingers and reset up the diff. or just unbolt replace the seal and bolt it back up. at least the gears are still running in the same tooth locations. your choice is the seal leaking because the yolk is loose and bearings are wiggly? your decision roll your dice.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,825
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Mark the nut and count turns. If anything seems off afterwards pull the 3rd member and have it checked. Having one lock up on the road gets spooky.
 
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