Rear Wheel Bearing, Where do I go from here?

[lonesouth]

My driver's side rear was making some noises and I figured it was probably the bearing needs replacing. I took the tired and outer drum off yesterday and rembering the "fun" I had last time trying to use the drum as a slide hammer, I opted to wait till I could go by Harbor Freight and get a real slide hammer today. Sidebar, I went to HF and found what I needed, but it was already open and I'm not sure all the parts are there, so I ask for a discount and they gave me 15% off! If that wasn't enough, he rang it up at the next cheaper version, so I walk out with a $45 slide hammer for ~$28, not bad.

Back to the real story. I attached the slide hammer and three whacks is all it takes. The axle came out nice and smooth, accompied by nine ball bearings that fell on the floor. Apparently the wheel bearing really needed to be changed.

Look at the pictures attached and see if you can answer these questions:

1. How many ball bearing should there have been?
2. I've reasearched and still do not feel certain if this is a SM/LG bearing rear, leaning toward Small
3. How much more time/effort goes into changing the inner seal?
4. What steps should I take to prep the housing prior to reassembly?

Thanks in advance!

 

[65 mustang]

Good afternoon, The number of balls are not important, they can't travel past the seal to wreck anything.I'll look to see if its a sm or big in some info i have.To change the seal:stick the axle shaft back into the opening (smallest part) use it to pry out the seal.(should come out with a little effort. To prep for install. I stuff a rag into the tube,spray with brake cleaner. scrape if you got some tuff stuff, pull rag out and install new assembly. Is there a chunk of the outer bearing stuck in yet?Scott

 

[65 mustang]

Went looking for that info....... Don't know where it is sorry. Take it all to the parts store, they will hook you up. Scott

 

[blubuckaroo]

I'd feel really uneasy running that rear end unless I took the third member out and examined it first. Looks like water must have gotten in somehow and the oil wasn't properly changed. Pull the other axle, and then the third member. Give everything a good cleaning, new seals and fresh oil. You'll sleep better. I live in CA and havn't seen that much rust in a gear box before.

 

[FlyAttack]

I'd feel really uneasy running that rear end unless I took the third member out and examined it first. Looks like water must have gotten in somehow and the oil wasn't properly changed. Pull the other axle, and then the third member. Give everything a good cleaning, new seals and fresh oil. You'll sleep better. I live in CA and havn't seen that much rust in a gear box before.

I 100% agree with blubuckaroo, looks like you have had some elements inside the housing tube, i would check your third member. it couldn't hurt!

The easiest way to check Sm vs. Lg bearing axles would be to measure the distance between the housing flange bolt holes:

Small- 3.375" from side to side / and 2" top to bottom
Large- 3.5" from side to side / 2.375" top to bottom (newer housing flanges 3.562" side to side)

Also the flange opening is larger on the large bearing 3.150 Diameter Vs. 2.835 diameter on the small.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That housing end looks nasty, but inside the seal it doesn't look that bad.
Not really worried about the bearings going into the housing, the seal would have stopped that.
My bigger worry is it appears that half the outer bearing race is still stuck in the axle housing.

If the axle housing is stock, for a '73 it would either be a big bearing if you have 11" drum brakes or small bearing if they are 10" (measured at the friction surface).

The seal is a simple press fit. I have popped them out with a crowbar before. Used a socket and extension to put them back in. That isn't a big deal.

Gear oil looks a little old, while in there you may want to pull the other axle, drop the pumpkin and change the oil.

1. How many ball bearing should there have been?
2. I've reasearched and still do not feel certain if this is a SM/LG bearing rear, leaning toward Small
3. How much more time/effort goes into changing the inner seal?
4. What steps should I take to prep the housing prior to reassembly?
1) not a clue.
2) what size are your brake drums
3) see above, about 5 minutes of work.
4) clean it up, get the remaining race out, look for damage after you clean it.

 

[ugly74]

damn! I thought my bearings looked bad when I did them!

blubuckaroo said it right. take it all apart, clean it, new seals, fresh oil.

and if you haven't already, I'd do the bearings on the other side too.

 

[lonesouth]

Thanks for the feedback! After seeing the carnage here, I decided that I should replace the seals/bearings on the both sides. I'll pull the 3rd and replace that seal as well as the breather tube. Any suggestions on getting the bearing race out?

I know the t-case is leaking and has never had enough oil due to my mekanik installing my geargawkers upside down, never thought to check that one. So It will come out and get new seals and bearings if needed.

After doing the disc install up front, I realize that it isn't that hard to service the front hubs, so those will get done and new fluid in the front diff as well.

Hell, after all that maybe I'll finally pull the engine and drop in the 351w, should seem like cake after running through everything else.

Thanks again for the feed back, more pics to come of the rest of the carnage.

 

[lonesouth]

Pulled the other axle tonight, much better shape than the first one. Definately have some water in the housing. The brake line on the passenger side had rusted to the housing, I just cut it off to save time. So it looks like I will be redoing the rear brake lines as well. They needed it anyway, smashed from chaining to the trailer around the housing.

I measured the brake drum, 10" so its definately a small bearing. I'm thinking at this point it may be cheaper to find a 31 spline big bearing housing to swap in than to upgrade this one, axles/gears/bearings/locker...I'll shop it around and see what pops up.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Don't be in too big a hurry to throw that thing out! Try a good cleaning, seals, bearings, and oil. There are a lot of small bearing 28 spline axles running around without any troubles!

 

[lonesouth]

I currently have 35" tires, 3.50 gears and a mini-spool....the whole thing says somethings gotta give. I'll do a price check to get everything cleaned/replaced and go from there.

why are the 31 spline small bearing axles from complete off road $200 more than the 31 spline big bearing axles? That alone would be enough to make me go looking for a BB 9".

 

[lonesouth]

well, my parts guys just informed me that the bearings would be ~$70 out the door, and they still need to be pressed on. I'll be in for half of the cost of 31 spline big bearing axles from COR. Anyone have a big bearing 9" with 31 spline axles and a locker of some sort for sale?

 

[GRN_MEANIE]

i wouldn't get anything but moser axle bearings! they have an o-ring on the outside race just for that lill' extra.

 

[lonesouth]

Yea, so its been a while and I finally got around to fixing it. Back to how do I remove the bearing race? That sucker is STUCK! I tried heating the axle and icing the race, I tried BFG to the race, I tried chisel + BFH to the race, nothing budging. I was hoping the race would be pot metal and disintegrate upon a good strike, but no. Maybe a dremel and just grind through the race? My slide hammer was of no use since I can't get an edge to pull on.

 

[Apogee]

Weld a bead on the inside of the race. When it cools, it will shrink the race and then you should be able to pull it with any one of the methods you've already tried. The material should be 52100 bearing steel...pretty tough stuff. No such thing as "pot" bearing steel.

 

[blubuckaroo]

The local machine shop here gets $10 to R&R the bearing if you carry the axle in. Not worth my time and trouble.

 

[lonesouth]

I've already replaced the bearings on the axles. I'm dealing with the outer race that is stuck in the housing.

 

[JWMcCrary]

why are the 31 spline small bearing axles from complete off road $200 more than the 31 spline big bearing axles?

My guess is the big bearings are Yukon and the small bearings are Moser.

 

[bax]

I've already replaced the bearings on the axles. I'm dealing with the outer race that is stuck in the housing.

The weld trick will work but I would cut it. Cut off wheel on a die grinder will do it. Even a dremel cut of wheel (s) will do it if you take your time. Even if you cut the housing by mistake some it wont hurt it. However if you weld the race to the housing, thats a different story.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's a good idea Apogee. You can also try some of that new Loctite "Freeze Off" or whatever it's called. Have a sample can out on my workbench but haven't had anything rusty to try it on yet. Might be just the ticket when heating the outer shelf or if the weld bead trick doesn't work.

Other than that, the grinder taking it down piece by piece may be your last best bet. It's a sure bet to be rusted in there but good, so at this point anything is worth a shot.

Back to your big vs small thing, there are usually numbers stamped into the side of the race so you can double check. But of course, yours does appear to be of the small bearing variety, which you've already determined this go-round.

Paul