Replace the axles?

[Jakedog]

I have a new Yukon 4.56 ring and pinion and a Detroit truetrac waiting to be installed next week. If the axles still look good is there any reason to replace them? If they are in fact the original axles (front 44 is out of a 76 or 77) should they be replaced due to age?

Is it worth the money to replace them now with new stronger axles? I do plan on using it off road for moderate wheeling.

Thanks

 

[bronconut73]

WH always had a great deal on stronger front axles with Yukon Gold Super Joints. A great deal and semi-bullet proof.

You don't want to break an axle on the trail
Especially the front one. The axle ears can get mangled and be tough to get out of the housing, especially on the side of the trail.
My answer, yes do the axles.

I am running your same Detroit Tru-Trac but with Yukon axles and Yukon Gold Joints up front. Been great for me.

 

[ransil]

I wheeled for years on stockers, when they broke I upgraded.

 

[bchesley]

Do the axles. You won’t regret it. Breaking on the trail sucks. I’ve had to change a stock one that snapped then took the ballpoints too. Good insurance if you ask me....


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[Broncobowsher]

The weak point on the front is the small U-joints. Try and put power down in a turn or land with a spinning tire they snap pretty easy. My stock D44 axles lasted 1½ outings after the axle was rebuilt with gears and a locker on 33s. Went to the stock Spicer shafts (Blazer like the brake donor but the long side cut and shortened) with Spicer joint. Ran for years. Won some upgraded joints in a raffle. Went to install them, they didn't fit (needed full circle C-clip grooves). Lost some of the Spicer needles and put in a cheap parts store joint. Few months later that blew taking out the ears on both shafts. Then had to buy the high dollar upgraded shafts to take the joints won in a raffle. Should have sold the joints and just kept the stock Spicer axles and Spicer joints.

 

[B.ranch]

I put a power lock in mine and new unoints, Wednesday was probably the 3rd time I went for a run and I broke a ujoint, it didn't break anything else, in fact I think it broke from just driving with the hubs locked did nothing really to strain anything. I ran to Medford Friday and picked up some trail terminators and installed them yesterday.

 

[SteveL]

My stock front axles survived with a true trak running 35s. I do plan on upgrading when the arb goes in. I did end up busting one of the 28 spline rears on the street. That was on the 66 with 35s and an open diff.

 

[sprdv1]

I wheeled for years on stockers, when they broke I upgraded.

Same, ran em till broke, then upgraded to RCVs

$.02 go w/what you got for now

 

[Jakedog]

Thanks for all the input. It seems the best route is to do it all now. I'm going to call wild horses in the morning. I'm thinking of going with this setup:

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/4340ChroMo_axles_Gold_Joints/bronco_axle_shafts_front

Should be plenty strong.

 

[Glass Pony]

Probably a good idea to replace the axle seals too. You don't want those old hard seals riding on your new axles.

 

[snipes243]

Upgrade and carry the stockers as spares. Cause even the aftermarket axles are break able including RCV's

 

[LSharpNM]

The factory axle shafts are the weakest point in the EB drivetrain. The fronts have the small 260x U-joints and the rear axles are the tiny 28 spline units.

That said, it all depends on your attitude and driving style. I wheeled for years with stock shafts (fresh Spicer U-joints) and 35s on fairly difficult trails and never broke an axle. That rig was open in the front with a detroit in the rear. However, I don't drive like I am sponsored and am not ashamed of pulling cable to preserve the rig.

If you are planning on running fairly difficult trails and don't want to constantly be worried about breaking an axle, I would suggest upgrading to Spicer 5-760x U-joints (larger, more common Dana 44 U-joint size) with corresponding shafts in the front, and 31 spline in the rear. I wouldn't worry about chromoly shafts or RCVs unless your are planning on some pretty hardcore wheeling. Breaking axles on the trail sucks, so it may be worth it to you to upgrade shafts since you are going to have the axle all apart now anyways.

At the bare minimum, I would run some fresh, non-greasable spicer 5-260X joints in the original shafts and make sure the ears aren't bent before you put it all back together.

 

[sprdv1]

Thanks for all the input. It seems the best route is to do it all now. I'm going to call wild horses in the morning. I'm thinking of going with this setup:

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/4340ChroMo_axles_Gold_Joints/bronco_axle_shafts_front

Should be plenty strong.

should do the trick w/no hard core wheeling..

if you ever wanna step up your game off road, RCVs the way to go but more than double the price

love mine

 

[bronconut73]

should do the trick w/no hard core wheeling..

if you ever wanna step up your game off road, RCVs the way to go but more than double the price

love mine

With no hard core wheeling?

Those were the standard hard core upgrade before RCV's came along.

RCV's are stronger, much stronger, but that WH set up with chromo axles and the solid over sized Yukon gold joints are about as good as you can get without going to a Dana 60 or RCV's wouldn't you agree?

 

[bchesley]

My wild horses chromoly setup works beautifully with my 37’s. I’m not afraid to use the throttle either. If I had some big horsepower I could see RCV’s being some nice insurance though.


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[sprdv1]

With no hard core wheeling?

Those were the standard hard core upgrade before RCV's came along.

RCV's are stronger, much stronger, but that WH set up with chromo axles and the solid over sized Yukon gold joints are about as good as you can get without going to a Dana 60 or RCV's wouldn't you agree?

for sure sir, I have the TBP set as spares if RCVs give fits.. would suck to not have a back up if one went out or had issues.

all set if no hard core wheeling I'm sure. I'd have faith in em

 

[Jakedog]

I went ahead and just ordered these this morning:
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/4340ChroMo_axles_Spicer760/bronco_axle_shafts_front

I got to thinking this morning before I ordered the axles about my 75 bronco I owned years ago. I wheeled it with 33's and never had any issues with the stock axles or u joints. I was running a very healthy 351 in that bronco.
I will wheel this one about the same as I did that one.

Moderate trails with a light foot. I know I went overkill on the rear axle, but it's definitely what I wanted.

 

[nvrstuk]

I read every post here but want to make sure you install new brgs on the rear axles IF you didn't already... said overkill on the rear but didn't say what you bought?

Engine size really doesn't make a lot of difference for axle breakage. Torque multiplication thru your gears does- extreme low 1st gear w/manual, doubler, low geared t-case, rear end ratio. Tire size does. 100% lockable lockers does. Traction surface does. Weight transfer does, turning the front wheels cuts ujoint strength by over 40% when turning, do that backing up a hill and guaranteed snap.

Anyway, upgrade those rear brgs before they cause your axle to walk out or break then it's common for Bronco's to roll when that happens... be safe.

 

[Jakedog]

I read every post here but want to make sure you install new brgs on the rear axles IF you didn't already... said overkill on the rear but didn't say what you bought?

Engine size really doesn't make a lot of difference for axle breakage. Torque multiplication thru your gears does- extreme low 1st gear w/manual, doubler, low geared t-case, rear end ratio. Tire size does. 100% lockable lockers does. Traction surface does. Weight transfer does, turning the front wheels cuts ujoint strength by over 40% when turning, do that backing up a hill and guaranteed snap.

Anyway, upgrade those rear brgs before they cause your axle to walk out or break then it's common for Bronco's to roll when that happens... be safe.

I have a new Currie 35 spline in the rear. Hopefully no issues with it.