Replacing Rear Main Seal

[chaynes12]

I have a 1972 model 302. Trying to replace the rear main seal. All the videos I look up show a one piece seal that guys are getting out with a screwdriver by just prying at it. Mine does not seem to have any type of rubber seal surrounding the back of the crank. The seal and gasket kit I bought from summit came with a two-piece rear main seal. I am significantly confused.... Any help??

 

[pipeline010]

edit: ignore, you said rear main seal. sorry.

 

[spap]

I don’t think the 302 s had a one piece rear seal until the early eighties
I don’t know about switching it over

 

[NGABronco]

The seal should be under the rear main cap, you need to remove the cap, half the seal is in it, the other half is around the crank. Hope that helps!!;D;D;D

 

[lil bronco]

What years had the rope seal?

 

[Hotrodjohn]

if its a 72 302 its a 2 piece.. gotta take off the oil pan and rear main cap.

 

[chaynes12]

Thanks guys. Figured this out 5 minutes after I posted the original post. Its exactly what Hotrodjohn says.... It seems like a tricky job. But I'm used to running in to those at this point. If anybody has been there and done this before, tips and pointers are more than welcome!!

 

[NGABronco]

Be sure to get the lip in the right direction, lube it up well and don't center it with the cap , leave a small tip sticking out the block and the out of the cap.
Good Luck!!!;D;D;D

 

[blubuckaroo]

Never, ever apply RTV to the seal shell before pushing it in!
How do I know this?
Some idiot did this and so I had to pull the crank just to replace the seal.

 

[Broncobowsher]

It also helps to loosen ALL the main bearing caps. This will let the crank drop down a little. Not much, less than a quarter inch will do. This takes pressure off the seal and that makes it easier to change. It's only loosening and retorquing 8 more bolts.

 

[Hotrodjohn]

Oil pan can be a little chore getting out. Loosen top of shocks, jack up the frame to get the dana to drop as far as you can giving you more clearance between pan and dana. Taking track bar off frame mount helps too. You've gotta get clearance to drop pan past the oil pump pickup to get it out.

 

[half cab]

Here was my adventure.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246440

 

[Broncobowsher]

I've had better luck pulling the engine. It can be tricky fighting the pan and getting the gasket to fit right.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, you should get a Chilton's manual and learn the correct procedure for this thankless job.
Quintessential task of $1000 labor for a $10 part.
Some of the things that are spelled out in the manual like:
Old engines had a rope seal and the pin must be driven out for the split seal.
The seal must be off set and not flush with the block.
Use only a small line of sealant on each side of the cap.
Lube the seal before installing the cap.
Good luck

 

[blubuckaroo]

All good points.
Also, Paul Monroe's book on small block Fors is another good reference.
I personally prefer the old split seal over the newer one piece. The two piece doesn't require splitting the engine and transmission.
Also, I've never had a two piece leak, but can't say that about the one piece.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I'm the other way around. I always have 2-piece seals leak, or at least weep. 1-piece tend to stay very dry for a very long time. I don't recall ever having a 2-piece be dry at 100k, but it is common for a 1-piece.