Running Engine on Chassis

[1strodeo]

Hello All, I want to run the engine, partly because it hasn't run in almost 2 years and also to test the carbs I've rebuilt.

I'm going to rig the radiator somehow but I'm more concerned about the electrical. What would be the best way to run a starting system? I was thinking of using a remote start switch between the battery and starter but how would I feed power to the coil for it to run?

I do not have the wiring harness. Will post pics of my setup in a minute

thanks

 

[AZ73]

I ran a battery to the starter solenoid and grounded it on the block, and ran power to my AL6 box. Then used a remote starter to turn over the starter until it started. You can just run a jumper wire from the + on the battery to the coil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRyv9zTyhSo

 

[1strodeo]

Thanks AZ, here’s my setup, taking pics I realized I don’t have the duraspark control module either

 

[1strodeo]

I think Jed Clampett would be proud

I need to pick up a remote start switch, and I know I have a solenoid around here somewhere........?:?

 

[73azbronco]

A real 3 pak, cool!

 

[DirtDonk]

You can mount the starter relay to the board if you want, but it needs to be grounded to the battery to function properly.

1. Large negative cable to the engine block. The closer to the starter motor the better.
2. Smaller negative down to the starter relay.
3. Positive battery cable to the starter relay.
4. Then one from there down to the starter.
5. Remote switch. Better than a screwdriver, but that works too!

6. Switchable positive 12v to the Red wire on the Dura Spark module.
7. Switchable positive 8v to he positive side of the coil. Will need a separate ceramic based ballast resistor and don't mount it anywhere near the wood! It gets VERY hot, so mount it to something that's not too delicate, either on the engine or elsewhere. Heck, bolt it to the radiator maybe.
8. Green wire from module to the negative side of the coil.
9. Purple and Orange and Black wires from the module to the matching wires on the distributor. Ground the module to the engine at a convenient spot.

Probably all you need. You want switched wires to the ignition so you can not only be sure you don't overheat the ignition components, but can turn off the engine if needed!
You should not need to connect 12v during START to the White wire on the module at this point. You will when it's permanently wired, but at this point it will run with 12v to either wire.

This is all assuming a Blue-grommet module.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Do you want the charging system to work too?

Paul

 

[1strodeo]

Thank you very much for the breakdown Paul. I don't have a belt, voltage regulator or harness to the alternator, so no I don't plan to run a charging circuit. Just figured I'd run it 20 minutes or so at a time and recharge the battery, if needed.

And much thanks also to 73az I think it's pretty dang cool too, but to hear it from others makes it so much cooler!! especially when I've been considering a V8 swap, thanks guys

 

[1strodeo]

oh and yes it's a blue grommet, from a 78 Granada I think

 

[AZ73]

As a side note I didn't run the shroud during the 20 min break-in and I didn't want to worry about overheating so I ran a 20" box fan in front of the radiator while the motor was running. You also want to make sure the radiator won't get pulled into the fan on the engine. My upper hose was stiff enough to hold it in place, but test it.

 

[1strodeo]

As a side note I didn't run the shroud during the 20 min break-in and I didn't want to worry about overheating so I ran a 20" box fan in front of the radiator while the motor was running. You also want to make sure the radiator won't get pulled into the fan on the engine. My upper hose was stiff enough to hold it in place, but test it.

same here, upper hose is pretty stiff, and I've never run a shroud anyway, but will definitely have a fan on it

 

[bmc69]

It's a race to the finish...I'm finishing the temp wiring to fire off the Mustang 5.0 in my '76 rolling chassis...hopefully before the day is done. ;-)

 

[1strodeo]

It's a race to the finish...I'm finishing the temp wiring to fire off the Mustang 5.0 in my '76 rolling chassis...hopefully before the day is done. ;-)

challenge accepted ;D

 

[1strodeo]

I was not able to even get to the point of trying to start it, hope you had better luck than me Bill

 

[Pa PITT]

.. I'm responding so I can come back to this post.
...
This is close to my 1968 in my shop. I don't think It'd be hard to at least hear it run.

 

[1strodeo]

6. Switchable positive 12v to the Red wire on the Dura Spark module.
7. Switchable positive 8v to he positive side of the coil.

Probably all you need. You want switched wires to the ignition so you can not only be sure you don't overheat the ignition components, but can turn off the engine if needed!
You should not need to connect 12v during START to the White wire on the module at this point. You will when it's permanently wired, but at this point it will run with 12v to either wire.

This is all assuming a Blue-grommet module.

Paul

Howdy Paul, could you please elaborate on steps 6-7? Like would I connect the remote start switch from S terminal to Red on module? But that would only supply 12V when starting...hmm I'm overthinking this

 

[DirtDonk]

I'm just thinking about powering up the ignition, which would be separate from the starter function completely.

So the "S" terminal on the starter relay remains only one wire, and that's from the remote starter switch.

For the ignition, #6 refers to a separate wire to the Dura Spark ignition control module's Red wire. At least it "should be" Red. Let me know what color wires are on the two connectors just so we can be sure.
This wire simply applies 12v power to the module for it to work. It should be either switched, or at least disconnectable so you don't risk overheating the module.

Same for #7 wire. You need switched power to the ignition coil's positive terminal.
Again, switched or conveniently removable so you can turn off the ignition.
Both to stop the engine from running, and to keep the coil from overheating.

You don't have to make it reduced voltage if you're only running it for a few minutes. But a stock, or stock type coil does not want 12v very long. There was originally a resistor wire as you know, in the stock harness.
Since there is no "harness" at this point, you need to use a resistor of some kind to reduce voltage to the coil so it does not overheat.

So keep the starter circuits and ignition circuits separate for this run. Both in your mind and literally. They do not need to be related until you have the whole vehicle together, at which point the "I" wire from the starter relay can connect to the White(?) wire of the ignition control module.

But for now, just ignore it.

Paul

 

[1strodeo]

Thank you Sir, much obliged

 

[B RON CO]

Hey!!! What's happening???
Where's the steering wheel?!?!?!?
How are you gonna drive that thing???
Good luck
PS make sure your in neutral.

 

[1strodeo]

Hey!!! What's happening???
Where's the steering wheel?!?!?!?
How are you gonna drive that thing???
Good luck
PS make sure your in neutral.

Don't worry I will have the rear axle on jack stands when I fire it up.

Funny you ask because after a couple beverages the other night I was contemplating how I could mount a chair on the frame and rig a hand throttle ;D