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Engine cranks but doesn’t want to start after running

sprdv1

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REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
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81,824
I almost hate to add this additional layer of choice/confusion, but you could also just convert the existing points distributor to Pertronix as well.

makes it so much more fun though lol
 

sprdv1

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REBEL
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Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,824
Soo electrical is not my game at all. Half of what you posted went right over my head. I’ll have to look and send pics when I get back to it. I’ve been reading about the colors and years and admit to be a little intimidated. I don’t have a trusty mechanic up here to even think of sending it to. I might have the originals that came off this bronco, but then again I’m not sure why a mechanic switched it to points. I do remember that when it had an electronic ignition I never had this “heat soak” issues, which leaves me to believe the 4 degrees retarded timing at crank helps tremendously. Let me round up some of the wiring paperwork and get pics. I dunno who the electrical guru is.. the jccsksy* seems like he’s done this a time or two. I’d gladly let someone hold my hand to help me switch back lol. Everytime I change something I have to learn it. Thanks for the help and advice so far

just concentrate one thing at a time. you got the right, smart folks, great group of peeps to get you pretty much thru any issues
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,199
All the magnetic pick up distributors were the same from '74-'86 that includes the connector. The ignition modules changed. The '74s had black plastic blocks or strain reliefs and 7 wires. The '75s had green strain reliefs with 7 wires. The '76-'86 or Duraspark IIs had blue strain reliefs and 6 wires. You want the '76-'86 wiring harness and blue strain relief module. These have only 2 wires to connect with your harness. The run and start from the ignition switch. The rest are the harness from the module to the distributor. New US made Motorcraft modules are available while the earlier original modules are no longer made by Ford. The harness is made by Centec and Painless.
 
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ksbronco75

ksbronco75

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Sep 6, 2010
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312
Ok so I found the old wiring pamphlet with the vengeful wiring harness. It has a run through to set up the duraspark ignition. Looks like I’ll have to pick up the harness that goes to the coil as I’m pretty sure mine is gone. I see gr8scott posted a distributor part number. I see the 893 models listed on most part sites. Is this the correct ignition module? My used parts are all down in Kansas but they came off the 75. I have a new wiring harness and a new motor. So does it matter if I try and find the correct 75 module color? From what I see jckkys said I should be shooting for the blue strain relief or bottom plastic block. My wiring harness is set up with a ballast resistor. What coil would I use with this set up? So far I have part numbers for the distributor and wiring harness in this thread. I see a lot of talk about burnt out coils and am guessing this is why the old mechanic switched to points.
 

gr8scott

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Last edited:
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ksbronco75

ksbronco75

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So I found an old distributor that was on my original motor for my 75. How do I post pictures on this website?
 
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ksbronco75

ksbronco75

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Ok got it. I also included the current coil and ballast resistor set up. Just curious if they distributor would work
 

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gr8scott

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Ok got it. I also included the current coil and ballast resistor set up. Just curious if they distributor would work

That distributor will work just fine, just need a new cap/rotor. The Coil and ballast resistor will work too.
 
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ksbronco75

ksbronco75

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Sep 6, 2010
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Awesome. Now when I put this new Blueprint motor in they had me use a distributor with a melonized gear on the shaft. Will I need to replace the gear in this old motor craft distributor as well??
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Yes you will have to change the gear, if lucky punch out the roll pin on the distributor gear and swap them. if lucky they will have the same shaft size.
 
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