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Slop in '73 sterring

ared77

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I've just put a re-manufactured 302 into a '73 I'm fixing up. Test drive showed too much wander in steering, appears to be slop in power steering box. Will a slight adjustment at top of the box help possibly?

Or if not, anybody have a GOOD used one for sale?
 

WILDHORSES

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It probably not the box. The box is the first thing everyone tends to blame but it's almost never the culprit. Problem one what is slop? A better definition would be great. Are we talking about wandering on the highway or you don't even want to take it down the road because it unsafe? Or sitting static it takes half a turn of the steering wheel before the tires move. Whats really going on?

First things first. get someone to rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look down on top of the steering box itself. At least half the people who come in with this type of problem have boxes that are loose on the frame. If the box is rocking on the frame fix that first.

Next if it's a case of wandering get to the local aliment shop and ask them what the caster is. Might as well check the tie rod and drag link ends too.

Also keep in mind a stock 73 box is about six turns from one side to the other so they are not real unsloppy to begin with.

Good luck, report back.

Jim
 
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ared77

ared77

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Thanks for the reply! (Just noticed I spelled "steering" as "sterring"...better stop posting before morning coffee!);D

Anyway, I went for a test drive and noticed excessive wander. Pulled back into drive and had wife move steering wheel, it would move a couple of inches without steering box doing anything.

I will check to be sure box is secure to frame, but I believe I'd have noticed if that was the problem.

Alignment shop is a good idea...if I can find one around here who still knows how to work on a '73.%)

Thanks again for any advice.
 
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ared77

ared77

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And what should the caster, etc be set at on a stock type '73?
 

WILDHORSES

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And what should the caster, etc be set at on a stock type '73?

Couple inches of play is not uncommon but also take a look at the rag joint that connects the upper and lower steering shaft. Make sure it's tight and solid. It's been working for 40 something years.

Caster Angle
The caster angle is defined as the number of degrees backward (positive) or forward (negative) of the tilt of the king pins (Dana 30) or ball joints (Dana 44) in relation to a vertical line through the center of the front end.

Caster correction on lifts over 3.5"
These are our observations from years of building early Broncos. We know there are always exceptions to the rules, but we have noticed about 90% of Broncos with wandering problems are the result of incorrect caster. The specification for Bronco caster is +4 to +9 . When the Bronco is lifted the caster will move in the negative direction. Properly installed degreed C-bushings will move the caster back in the positive direction. Because of the caster issue about 50% of Broncos going to a 4.5" lift and most Broncos going to a 5.5" lift will need more caster correction than the standard 7 degree C-bushing. The additional correction can be addressed in a number of ways. These three are the most common.

Radius arm drop brackets: Only drawback with this method is the unavoidable loss of ground clearance.

Long radius arms: This is the most common method of correcting caster on taller lifts. Advantages include maintaining ground clearance, additional articulation off-road and improved handling.

Bending the stock radius arms: We know this is old school, but long before degreed C-bushings people were lifting Broncos and bending the stock arms to achieve good caster.

This link has diagram http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Bronco_Wandering

Jim
 
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ared77

ared77

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Thanks WILDHORSES!

It's going to alignment shop today, and I'll have them shoot for 7 degrees on the caster.
 
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ared77

ared77

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I've installed all new front end parts, bushings, springs, shocks, steering stabilizer, and had it aligned twice. Once before the new C-bushings and again after the new 2 degree caster bushings were installed. This is a stock height Bronco and the 2degree bushings were on the advice of Toms Bronco Parts.

I still believe, as stated in my original post, that what I really need is a steering box.

So my question is - what is best advice on where to get a box? New or rebuilt?

Thanks!
Norm
Winchester, Ky
 

Timmy390

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They can be rebuilt in most cases. West Texas OffRoad gets recommended often

I just bought a new one and ended up selling my old box to a member here on the board. I went Delphi from Borgenson and have had no issues. I drilled the 4th hole and added 1/4 inch DOM inserts in the frame along with plating both sides of the frame. Overkill ? Yeah more than likely is but my rig drive like dream at any speed now.

Also, I know tire pressure is a HUGE factor on my rig. I run 32's and anything over say 28-30 PSI and I'm all over the road.

Tim
 

bronconut73

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They can be rebuilt in most cases. West Texas OffRoad gets recommended often

I just bought a new one and ended up selling my old box to a member here on the board. I went Delphi from Borgenson and have had no issues. I drilled the 4th hole and added 1/4 inch DOM inserts in the frame along with plating both sides of the frame. Overkill ? Yeah more than likely is but my rig drive like dream at any speed now.

Also, I know tire pressure is a HUGE factor on my rig. I run 32's and anything over say 28-30 PSI and I'm all over the road.

Tim

Yup.....I am running 26 up front and 22 in the rear. A happy medium as it were.
 

JAFO

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You can buy new at the vendors. I actually installed the TBP power steering kit into my 73 (pump, bracket, pulleys, gear box). Very nice setup. My truck steers great and tracks straight as an arrow. I have the Wild Horses 2.5" lift (with correct C bushings), new everything else regarding the steering. Adjustable track bar. I aligned the toe in myself using the straight edges clamped to my rotors method to measure behind and in front to get the correct toe in distance (1/8" to 1/4" closer in the front).
Their pump is here...
http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/power-steering-box-72-77-early-ford-bronco-rebuilt
 

5001craig

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I put a used 4x4x2 box I purchased in the FS section from thegreatjustino, a BC Broncos PS Box Reinforcement Kit, Extreme Custom Parts and Fabrication tie rods (361166) and a WH Adjustable Trac Bar. Repurposed C-Bushings and a 2.5" lift.

Father-In-Law aligned it by eye and I can take my hands off the wheel at 50 for a little while. Maybe 45. I don't drive it that fast on the street. Will be getting it aligned when I get the new lift and tires on.
 
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ared77

ared77

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Thanks guys for the replies.

So it looks like a couple of options are a rebuilt one from TBP's for about $900 or send mine off to West Texas Offroad for a rebuild. They charge about $200 if I'm reading their web site correctly.

Also thanks for the air pressure info. I'll go back out with it and play around with pressures to see what effect it has.

Thanks!
 

Timmy390

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Just one more note.....taking these rigs to an alignment shop for anything other than a readout of the numbers is throwing money out the window.

The ONLY thing they can adjust is the toe which you can set on your own with a tape measure. There is no other adjustment they can make. Alignment shops are not going to change out new ball joint inserts (tappered) or change the C bushings.

Tim
 

bronconut73

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Just one more note.....taking these rigs to an alignment shop for anything other than a readout of the numbers is throwing money out the window.

The ONLY thing they can adjust is the toe which you can set on your own with a tape measure. There is no other adjustment they can make. Alignment shops are not going to change out new ball joint inserts (tappered) or change the C bushings.

Tim



"Real" alignment shops will adjust the ball joint eccentrics.

The one here in O'Town that does it usually does damn near "semi-size" trucks.
My little Bronco looked a little out of place.

For those in the O'Town area.....it is the shop on John Young Park way just north of Shader Road next to the motorcycle shop.
 

Timmy390

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Stock ball joint eccentrics have no adjustment. They set preload only. Torque then down and that's it. You have to buy new ones (NAPA sells them) that have a specific degree built into them once you have the numbers from an alignment shop.

Maybe your shop put new ones in but none of the shops in my town can do anything but the toe and they do not have any ball joint eccentrics on hand.

Tim
 
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