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Smoke from driver side exhaust

rbrnc512

New Member
Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
45
Smoke is coming out of my driver side exhaust pipe when the engine is warm. It's not a lot, but it just started recently. Any ideas for how I can go about figuring out what the issue is, ideally starting with the easiest things? Hoping it's not a blown head gasket...

Thanks.
 
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rbrnc512

New Member
Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
45
I'll have to take another look after work today, but I'd say it looks to be white. definitely not black.
 

Lmfp

Bronco Guru
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Jun 28, 2011
Messages
1,496
Loc.
Lake Charles, LA
Mine started doing it on the passenger side and it ended up being a piston ring going bad. Found out when it started spewing oil into the engine bay from all the blow by.
 

BUCKNBRONK

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2011
Messages
521
Loc.
fresno
I'll have to take another look after work today, but I'd say it looks to be white. definitely not black.

keep a eye on ur coolant level if it starts going down then its head gasket time. Dont wait to long to take care of it. U can also do a pressure test on the cooling system to rule out a Head gasket failure

if its blue- time for a rebuild- run it until u can save up the $$ or it dies.
 

Bronco Junkie

So Cal Broncos
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
3,235
keep a eye on ur coolant level if it starts going down then its head gasket time. Dont wait to long to take care of it. U can also do a pressure test on the cooling system to rule out a Head gasket failure

if its blue- time for a rebuild- run it until u can save up the $$ or it dies.

Be careful....if it is time for a rebuild, don't drive the thing until it blows up or good chance you will not be able to re-use the block and other parts...unless you are planning to replace the whole motor.
 

BUCKNBRONK

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Jun 30, 2011
Messages
521
Loc.
fresno
Be careful....if it is time for a rebuild, don't drive the thing until it blows up or good chance you will not be able to re-use the block and other parts...unless you are planning to replace the whole motor.

there is a difference between dies and blows up. thanks for the lesson dad. oil loss at the rings will usually not cause a major failure until u run it out of oil, but if u know its using oil u would have to be stupid not to keep it topped off.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
start the engine let it get warmed up and while running now take a squirt bottle with water in it and squirt each exhaust port and watching the water sizzle. look for a cylinder running colder. any cylinder running colder pull the plug and check for oil or running rich or for a very clean plug. if the plug looks like crap then replace the plug and check the ignition wiring for the cylinder. Make sure its running as best as it can before you go tearing the whole engine apart to find what could be a simple gremlin.
 
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rbrnc512

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May 10, 2012
Messages
45
Thanks, I'll do the pressure test this weekend and also check to make everything else is running right. All of the plugs looked fine except the #8 which was black (but dry), so going to swap that out. The white smoke doesn't start until the motor gets to 190 degrees or so - does this give any clues?

Was also planning to run through some of the lucas fuel additive and also change the oil this weekend and put in that lucas oil leak stopper just to see if it helps at all.
 

Timmy390

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Jan 1, 2011
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5,681
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Conway, AR
T stat is opening at 190 or so (depending on which one is installed) letting water flow and everything is heated up at that point.

Sounds like a head gasket to me or cracked head.

Don't throw away good money on snake oil. Lucas is good stuff (I use their gear oil) but fuel additives and oil treatments (leak stopper) are not the answer to any problems.

If it were me, I would pull the head on the side with smoke and repalce the gasket. Inspect the head for cracks and if you can, get it pressure tested while it's off. It's not hard to do at all. I change the head gaskets on Brand X 5.3 two years ago. All the torque specs will be in the Haynes manual.

Tim
 
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rbrnc512

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May 10, 2012
Messages
45
Ok, I ordered the shop manual cd and going to do it in a couple weekends. Is there anything else I should know about this, or anything else I should do/check/replace when I have it apart (any other seals or gaskets)? How long do you think it will take? Also, what kind of gasket adhesive do you guys recommend? Thanks for the help - this is my first time doing anything like this on a motor.
 
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rbrnc512

New Member
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May 10, 2012
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45
Also, I was just planning to buy the two head gaskets from Autozone (not the full set). Is this fine?
 

76Broncofromhell

Bronco Totalitarian
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
4,244
Loc.
Reno, NV
Also, I was just planning to buy the two head gaskets from Autozone (not the full set). Is this fine?

Don't go buying parts just yet. This sounds more like valve guides than cracked heads, although it's pretty much impossible to tell because "white" and "blue" smoke can look pretty similar.


My test for valve guides and seals is pretty simple: does it smoke more after driving it at cruising RPM and then coming back to idle? The warm up thing points to worn guides, more than head gasket barring any boil-overs (which are the number one pointer to a blown HG or cracked head). Worn guides allow oil to be sucked past the intake valve in high vacuum such as when the engine is returning to idle while driving.


You need to change the head gaskets, buy a head set - since you have to remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, valve covers and likely the valves if you want to pressure test and surface the head (strongly recommended).

With that said, I wouldn't even bother disassembling the crap stock heads. You can typically find a good set of rebuilt heads on Craigslist for what it costs to inspect your stock heads for cracks, and surfacing them.

And for what it costs to rebuild stock heads, you can buy iron performance heads brand new in the box. If you're really good you can peruse Craigslist and locate some killer aluminum heads.

Let us know.
 

carmi

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Aug 22, 2007
Messages
178
Loc.
Oroville
Do a compression test. If a cylinder takes longer to build up pressure than the rest you may have a problem. Squirt a few cc's of oil in each cylinder and retest. If the pressure builds up fast, It's a worn set of rings. If it still pumps up slow, It will indicate faulty valve seats.
 
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rbrnc512

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May 10, 2012
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I've been traveling and haven't been able to work on it at all, but going to this weekend.

Carmi - for the compression test do I just squirt a few cc's in the spark plug hole for each cylinder and then re-test?

76Broncofromhell - I need to look at that when I get back in town but I do think it smokes more coming down from high RPMs, but will need to look. I think the smoke is white, but it is very tough to tell especially with the little amount that is coming out. The motor was rebuilt a few years ago and while I don't know all the details (the PO didn't know them), but from what I understand it is not stock and so it may be worth the trouble you described below. Will look into that.

Thanks for the help already, I plan to spend the weekend figuring out what's wrong. This certainly is a good learning experience, just wish I had more free time...
 

carmi

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Aug 22, 2007
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Oroville
Do a test on each cylinder first. Again, pay close attention to how long it takes to build up pressure for each cylinder. Should build up pressure pretty rapid, maybe two to three strokes. Keep turning the motor until the pressure no longer goes any higher. It will be obvious if you have a cylinder that is slow to build. Keeping notes for each cylinder, write down the highest pressure achieved and some sort of note for the speed that pressure was built. Now, retest each cylinder but put a few cc's of oil in the spark plug hole before each test. If the cylinder was slow to build prior to putting oil in but builds quickly after the oil then it will indicate worn rings. If there is little to no change, but the pressure is lower than the rest, then it indicates worn valve seats. Ideally all the cylinders will be around 180 to 200 psi (before oil) and within 15 - 20% of each other.
 
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rbrnc512

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May 10, 2012
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tested the compression today and they all tested right around 180psi give or take 5 except the #8 cylinder which was at 140. What does this indicate?

They all built pressure at what seemed like the same time, except the #5 which was slightly slower, but barely noticeable.
 

carmi

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Aug 22, 2007
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Oroville
Did you put oil in? The oil will determine whether it's rings or valves. At 140 your just over 20% less on #8. Not a good sign.
 
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rbrnc512

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May 10, 2012
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I did the oil test on that cylinder tonight and compression was about 160-165, so definitely considerably higher. Does that mean it's a bad ring? Is that very hard to fix (or expensive if I take it somewhere)? I have the shop manual so will start digging through that tonight, would like to do it myself to learn.
 
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