Spindle lock ring stuck

[72Sport]

I torque the inner nut to 50lbs while spinning it and then back it off till I can put the lock ring on, then torque the outer nut to 100lbs. I’ve taken it about maybe 4 times, and 3 of them I’ve had to order new ones because they come out with no pins anymore.

-Evan


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The Ford manual for a 72 Bronco says torque the outer nut to 50 ft/lbs. When you put it back together try 50 ft lbs with a torque wrench. I'll bet your problems go away.

Remember you backed the inner nut loose to give you the proper bearing clearance so their is nothing to keep the outer nut from turning the lock ring after the pin breaks off the inner nut. Not sure how much torque it takes to break the pin. It looks like the tab on the lock ring will be out of the groove in the spindle approximately 1/4 turn before you get the 100 ft lb of torque based on your picture.

 

[John Griswold]

I've had the problem with the lock ring turning out of the groove. I was able to angle a punch into one of the pin holes and tap the washer turning it back to the groove freeing it up like normal. Unfortunately the washer turning ruins threads or the previously bad threads allowed the failure in the first place. If the threads are bad a new nut and washer set will fail again. Replacing the spindle may be necessary

 

[77broncodriver]

I've had the problem with the lock ring turning out of the groove. I was able to angle a punch into one of the pin holes and tap the washer turning it back to the groove freeing it up like normal. Unfortunately the washer turning ruins threads or the previously bad threads allowed the failure in the first place. If the threads are bad a new nut and washer set will fail again. Replacing the spindle may be necessary

Yeah I was thinking that if that thread is messed up, the ring will probably end up in the same spot. Unless I had it too tight before so it might miss it. My new spindle nut kits come in tomorrow so I will see how it looks then.

-Evan


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[77broncodriver]

Looking for some advice,

I put it all together and it took it for a quick drive, maybe 20 minutes long, and when I got back the hubs were pretty warm/hot. Is that normal? I’ve never felt them before this test drive.

-Evan


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[Broncobowsher]

Brakes make a lot of heat.

I thought I read you torqued the inner nut and backed off just enough to put the keeper in. That would be wrong. That is putting a preload on the bearings, should be end play. The inner nut should be backed off something like a quarter turn after torqueing. The bearings will actually tighten up slightly after that since the outer locknut will push the inner nut in that little bit of play there is in the threads.

 

[77broncodriver]

Brakes make a lot of heat.

I thought I read you torqued the inner nut and backed off just enough to put the keeper in. That would be wrong. That is putting a preload on the bearings, should be end play. The inner nut should be backed off something like a quarter turn after torqueing. The bearings will actually tighten up slightly after that since the outer locknut will push the inner nut in that little bit of play there is in the threads.

This time I put the inner nut to 50lbs and then backed 90* then put the outer to 50lbs as well. It still seemed a little tight. I know Paul said it should spin pretty free without the brake pads in and it still wasn’t very loose. Maybe I am just overthinking it now but I don’t want it to end up being too tight and messing up all the new parts I put in. It’s hard to tell but I guess it’s possible the threads that were messed up is letting the inner nut tighten when I torque the outer one? If so then I need to get a new spindle. That’s not too big of an issue but I did install the extreme bushing in this one and don’t know if I could get it out to put in the new spindle.

So I guess to make should I would just have to do a new spindle and new bushing to play it safe.


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[72Sport]

Looking for some advice, From the 72 Ford manual: Tighten the bearing adjusting nut (Inner Nut) to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings. 7. Continue rotating the wheel, loosen the adjusting nut and then retorque it to 30-40 ft-lbs.

8. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 1/4 turn (90 degrees). Assemble the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest notch where the dowel pin will enter. Install the outer lock nut and torque to 50 ft-lbs. Final end play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001 to 0.010 inches.

I may have a set of 77 Ford manuals around here somewhere if you are interested. Looks like they are 76. All I can find is the chassis manual tonight.

 

[DirtDonk]

It's common to be warm. And it's common to be hot from the brakes.
It should never be too hot to touch from bearing heat, but as mentioned it can easily become too hot to touch if the brakes are being used much. Such as around town with lots of stop and go, even from moderate speeds.

You should be able to get on the freeway for an hour, come to a normal stop and still put your hand on the hub. It'll be warm, and in that first instant you might even think it's hot. But it's not too hot to touch.
If it is, either your brakes are dragging or you've got something going on with the bearings. OR you just used your brakes too hard.
Same basic thing for around town too, as long as you're not on the brakes all the time. All that metal is one big heat-sink (it's the whole point of the large mass on a truck rotor) to dissipate heat away from the friction surface and into the surrounding areas. Which include the bearings.
Modern greases can handle some pretty decent temperatures without breaking down. But it's not good if they're always hot, or excessively so.

Paul