stalling and charging problem

[panteramatt]

My wifes 74 just start stalling only when in gear. I checked timing and its at 10 at idle. Checked for vac leaks found none. Adjusted carb in drive and it has 15-16" vacuum. It does have a lunati bracket master 2 cam if that matters. The problem just came up. On another note, after starting it a few times the battery died. Noticed its only at low 12's at idle and doesnt change when revved. Took alt to store and it checked out ok. battery seems to hold a charge too.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is it a standard Bronco alternator with external regulator?
If so, you'll need to check the wiring and, if it all checks out ok, replace the regulator.

Of course, if you can find a test for the regulator too, that would save you from just throwing money at it. And it can very easily be one or more of several problems to keep things from charging.
Any number of wiring connections or corrosion buildup can keep the alternator from charging.

What's the general condition of the wiring?
You can test the main wires yourself easily first.

1. Temporarily disconnect the short Yellow wire at the Voltage Regulator leading to the radio noise suppressor. Assuming you still have one that is.
Test it again with the engine running to see if anything has changed. If not, step-2.

2. Leave the battery connected and pull the 3-wire connector from the voltage regulator (is it on the firewall on your '74?) and check for voltage at the Yellow wire. Should be full battery voltage at all times. Jiggle the harness to see if it flickers to indicate a loose connection or broken wire.

3. Check the Green w/red wire with the key in RUN. Should be full battery voltage, but only with the key.

If those two check out, see if your local store can check VR's too. If they do alternators and batteries, they might be able to do regulators.
Of course, you can just replace it and if that doesn't work you now have a good spare. But many of us have ended up with too many "spares" over the years, so testing is a good first step. Before buying...

Paul

 

[panteramatt]

Fixed alternator. A wire was slightly pulled out from the regulator. I replaced the fuel filter and it still stalls. Love to have it fixed today to take a mem day cruise!

 

[panteramatt]

I noticed with the new fuel filter, the pump side only fills the3 filter about 1/4 tops. The carb side fills up to the exit fine though. Could the pump be weak? ITs a mechanical fuel pump.

 

[DirtDonk]

You're talking about a clear filter? Yes, the pump could be weak, but it's very common, even with a healthy pump, for a filter to not lose all it's air pockets.
Generally, if it's more than half-way full, it's working somewhat well. If it's a good 3/4 (not a precise estimate of course) full, it's probably normal.

Every setup is different of course, so this is not a universally accurate diagnostic tool. But it gets you in the ballpark.
I've had my filter fill up completely too, and spend an entire trip full, but often as not it's at that 3/4 level.

How is your filter oriented and plumbed? Flat? Vertical? Angled? Got the correct inlet and outlet sides oriented correctly?

I did have a weak pump once though. Kind of acted up at the filter, but it wasn't conclusive. Finally tested it with a bucket and decided it was flowing below spec (don't remember the exact test procedure anymore) and replaced it.
Worked fine for years after that.

Paul

 

[panteramatt]

Yea I installed a new clear filter. Its right in front of the carb vertically and is installed correctly. Theres no other filter behind it to the tank. IT runs fine but I think it should get more gas. From the pump side it doesnt even fill up to the entry hole. The exit side goes up to about 3/4.

 

[bronconut73]

I had the same issue. Viper told me to quit worrying about it and just drive it for awhile. I have and there has been no problems. I try not to look at it too often now. Haha.
Viper said that people are always complaining about those clear filters not filling up.
The only true solution is to run an electric pump and regulator with the regulator between the filter and carb. Although I guess you could do the same thing with a high pressure mechanical pump.

 

[panteramatt]

Well the filter finally filled itself up. After cleaning the carb passages the stalling went away. Now I jist filled the tank up again and its back.

 

[DirtDonk]

You may still have a sticking needle-n-seat valve that's not letting fuel into the carb consistently.
I've run into this on numerous occasions with completely different carbureted vehicles.

The very temporary solution was to bang on the float bowl adjacent to the inlet with something heavy but soft. The plastic or wood handle of a big screwdriver was the tool-of-choice for most of us way back when. Wouldn't mar the aluminum carb that way.
But it usually would only go away for a short time. Only real solution was to rebuild with new parts. If yours are already new, then maybe they're just not liking the fuel blend in your area or there is some kind of debris still getting through the filter?

When the inlet valve is stuck, it's super obvious when it opens up again. If the engine is still idling when you hit the carb, you'll usually see a nice "whoosh" of gas up through the filter and it might fill up again.

Hope that helps. Just don't ban on the carb too hard in your frustration. It might not be the issue and you've only needlessly marred the piece up.
In other words, lay off the hammers!

Paul

 

[Viperwolf1]

Fixed alternator. A wire was slightly pulled out from the regulator. I replaced the fuel filter and it still stalls. Love to have it fixed today to take a mem day cruise!

With changing temps you'll find that slight carb adjustments are needed from time to time. Might even need to do some adjustment to the point gap. Call it a tune up.