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Starter/solenoid issues

70sbudget

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Messages
92
Alrighty, the time has come to turn the key. Engine set at tdc, wires routed, and rotor pointed at #1. Turn the key and eeerrrg. That's kind of the sound I got. After that, just a click.

I have no idea how this solenoid works and how old the starter is.

I would like to replace the starter with something new and smaller. Are there any high torque options from newer models that are available over the counter and will work with the 302 and a 164 tooth ring gear?
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,841
Loc.
San Martin, CA
So how is your battery, fully charged, more than 12v showing?

Condition of Battery cables? Starter cable good? Got a good Ground point for the motor and starter solenoid? Good clean terminal ends on the battery

You can buy new parts, but it will not matter if these parts are in question.

Yes new smaller starter PM (Permanent Magnet) Most Vendors sell them. Really cheap China specials on EBay. There are two sizes, short nose (manual) and long nose (automatic). 164 tooth and 157 tooth are not interchangeable.
 

Steve83

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 16, 2003
Messages
9,047
Loc.
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
These show how the 2 styles of Ford starter relay work:

.

But the first thing to check is ALWAYS the battery terminals. Replacing the starter &/or relay won't fix the battery terminals, and they're the most-common point of failure because of the acid that invariably leaks out around the posts over time. Click this & read all the captions in the photo album:



To temporarily bypass the relay, and see if the starter works; simply bridge the 2 heavy terminals with thick metal (like steel pliers). There WILL be sparks, but there will be less if you get a good bite on the terminals quickly, and hold steady. If the starter makes the same sound, remove the bridge and immediately check all the cable terminals for heat. If all the heat is in the starter, the starter is bad (or the engine is locked up). But if you find a blazing-hot wire or terminal, that's where the problem is. Clean, repair, and tighten the terminal or cable.



If bridging the relay makes the starter spin normally, the relay is the problem. The new style is a direct replacement for, and an improvement on, the old style. Just make sure any replacement starter relay has the same terminal labels as your original (specifically, the "I" terminal).

Once you at least KNOW what the problem is, you can decide how to fix it. If you decide to replace the starter with a PMGR, it only takes 1 new wire, as shown here:

 
OP
OP
7

70sbudget

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Messages
92
904Bronco good questions. Battery is brand new. Cables are questionable at best. New ground straps from battery to body and frame to engine will be going in also.

I'll check current next time I wrench on it.

Do you know what model vehicle those starters were used on?
 

904Bronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
5,841
Loc.
San Martin, CA
904Bronco good questions. Battery is brand new. Cables are questionable at best. New ground straps from battery to body and frame to engine will be going in also.

I'll check current next time I wrench on it.

Do you know what model vehicle those starters were used on?

I want to say 80's pick up truck with 302... I will look for a thread that I remember reading.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,124
904Bronco good questions. Battery is brand new. Cables are questionable at best. New ground straps from battery to body and frame to engine will be going in also.

I'll check current next time I wrench on it.

Do you know what model vehicle those starters were used on?

battery should go to block then off the block to the frame & body
 

Eoth

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
1,680
Your "eeerrrg" sound.... Do you hear your starter spinning? If you do, then its probably your Bendix gear that isn't engaging your flywheel.
 

Trappey74

Full Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2015
Messages
303
Loc.
Cleveland
I had the same issue with my 74 in the spring. I replaced the starter and solenoid. Didn't fix it. Tried bypassing solenoid, didn't do anything. Ended up being a loose ground on the back of the alternator. Once I tightened that up and got it to the shop I got the guys to complete the full circuit of grounds running to the frame, body, engine. Cranking perfectly now. I'd be willing to bet you have a bad connection somewhere.
 
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