Starter solenoid stud too short / help

[CopperBronco]

I bought a new starter solenoid and a mini high torque starter (auto transmission). I went to wire it all up, and now I have three heavy duty cables on the hot side of the starter solenoid. The positive battery cable, my one wire alternator, and the starter cable(the new high torque starter requires this to be hot side now). The solenoid stud isn’t long enough to fit all these cables. I’m not an electrical expert and could use some advice. The way I see it is I have 3 options, but I imagine you folks will have more ideas.

1. Do I remove the inner nut from the solenoid to create more space on the stud? This seems simple, but not sure if unkosher.

2. I could just put a 5/16 coupler nut onto the stud, and then a bolt into the coupler nut, see photo attached… I have no idea if this is safe…also mixing metals isn’t ideal I’m told for conductivity or corrosion. This is also an easy solution, but is this safe? The positive battery cable is on the far outside. The alternator and starter on inside of solenoid.

3. Get an starter solenoid repair kit, these are for studs that break and I can add it to mine, but my main problem is I can’t find a coarse thread repair kit, they are all fine thread and my solenoid is coarse thread. I have no idea if I can tap and die it to coarse thread, and keep it the 5/16 size. This strikes me as problematic when I think about it. Does anyone know where I could find a coarse thread one of these parts: https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC5...pUfkXFKa_DRIZB5LyRReTHAGNi84CybAaAngIEALw_wcB

Lastly, any other ways to solve this I don’t know about?

Many thanks in advance!

 

[Jdgephar]

Does the starter cable reach the battery? You could connect it there instead.

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[CopperBronco]

Does the starter cable reach the battery? You could connect it there instead.

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No, it’s run into the headers if I did that. I can always get a new one. Might be the best option.

 

[68Broncoz]

Connect the alt directly to the battery. The current from the alt will be going from the alt to the battery in most cases. Also some suggest a fuse in this connection.

 

[DirtDonk]

Those are definitely legitimate solutions. You can also add an independent power stud/junction block to basically make up a secondary stud. Run whatever you want to that.
You can also try moving the starter cable back over to the starter side of the old relay. Even though that’s not how it’s done for a good reason, it could be worth a try.

The reason it’s usually not done that way is because you can have the starter run on for a moment after you release the key. But not everybody suffers from that issue that hooks it up this way.
So my thinking is it could be worth a try because it’s simple. If it doesn’t work you can always go to Plan B afterwards.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and although I have seen them before, I don’t know specifically where to get them. But there are starter relays with extra long studs. Now that would be your best and easiest solution if you can find one of those. And even better if it was made in the USA! Even at a higher price.

 

[jamesroney]

Those are definitely legitimate solutions. You can also add an independent power stud/junction block to basically make up a secondary stud. Run whatever you want to that.
You can also try moving the starter cable back over to the starter side of the old relay. Even though that’s not how it’s done for a good reason, it could be worth a try.

The reason it’s usually not done that way is because you can have the starter run on for a moment after you release the key. But not everybody suffers from that issue that hooks it up this way.
So my thinking is it could be worth a try because it’s simple. If it doesn’t work you can always go to Plan B afterwards.

Independent power stud is the way to go. The early 66 Broncos had one. They are cheap and easy to source. $12.00 will get you a pair of them from Amazon.

Besides, your fender mounted starter relay isn't switching very much current anymore. You don't need any giant wires on it. You could power that relay with a 16ga wire and a 10 amp fuse. I like to mount the independent power stud near the relay location, and feed the relay with a fusible link. Then you can put your alternator on the relay post, along with the fusible link. The big cables all go to the power stud. This also helps if you ever plan to add a second battery.

I have suffered many times from "welded wrench syndrome." Those coupling nuts in your pic reminded me of that.

 

[Rustytruck]

You can use a long coupling nut to bolt on one of those cables and then screw in a bolt to the coupling nut to hold the extra wires. just more exposed metal to short against.

Everbilt 3/8 in.-16 TPI Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts 822281 - The Home Depot

Accomplish your fitting work quickly with the help of this Everbilt 12-Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts.

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