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Starting Issue -New Info 1/1/20

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BoureeOne

BoureeOne

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Mar 28, 2011
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3,068
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Madisonville, La
As far as the carb boiling fuel... I have the insulated spacer between the carb and the intake. When it was running yesterday I felt the carb and it was almost cool to the touch. And this was at full operating temperature.
 

DirtDonk

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That 7psi is high, but depending on the carburetor's seat tension might not be causing any trouble. But if you have a carb with smaller floats that are not putting as much upward pressure on the seat, perhaps that's just enough.
But would you not be able to see more fuel than normal dripping into the throttle bores while it's running?

Alternately, if you just turn on the pump, do you see it filling up the bowl and leaking out the vents, or forcing itself into the throttle bores?
If it's not doing that when the pump is running constantly without the engine running, then it's likely at least not the main problem.

But since you can't drive it, you really don't know how well it's running. And in fact it sounds like it's running like crap from your description!
Popping and cracking and backfiring is anything BUT normal or good.
Sooty plugs too.

And adjusting the idle air mixture screws does little to nothing for the overall mixture. You may be running too rich. Time to check what size jets you have. If the carb is brand new and out of the box, then you should be able to look it up. If it's ever been messed with, you should verify visually.
Agree with the comments that, while the carb is perhaps larger than you need, the size disparity alone does not cause these issues.

Did you ever check the quality of the spark at the plugs? If you lay a plug wire (prefferrably connected to a plug) out on the engine is there a massive and loudly snapping white/blue spark? If not, your ignition is weak.
And what did you set the timing to this time? Do you know for a fact that your timing marks line up with the engine's internals? You might just try advancing the timing more anyway, but knowing where your timing marks are in regard to the piston is critical on any engine, and these old Fords are unfortunately not blessed with consistent external markings.

Paul
 
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BoureeOne

BoureeOne

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
3,068
Loc.
Madisonville, La
That 7psi is high, but depending on the carburetor's seat tension might not be causing any trouble. But if you have a carb with smaller floats that are not putting as much upward pressure on the seat, perhaps that's just enough.
But would you not be able to see more fuel than normal dripping into the throttle bores while it's running?

Alternately, if you just turn on the pump, do you see it filling up the bowl and leaking out the vents, or forcing itself into the throttle bores?
If it's not doing that when the pump is running constantly without the engine running, then it's likely at least not the main problem.

But since you can't drive it, you really don't know how well it's running. And in fact it sounds like it's running like crap from your description!
Popping and cracking and backfiring is anything BUT normal or good.
Sooty plugs too.

And adjusting the idle air mixture screws does little to nothing for the overall mixture. You may be running too rich. Time to check what size jets you have. If the carb is brand new and out of the box, then you should be able to look it up. If it's ever been messed with, you should verify visually.
Agree with the comments that, while the carb is perhaps larger than you need, the size disparity alone does not cause these issues.

Did you ever check the quality of the spark at the plugs? If you lay a plug wire (prefferrably connected to a plug) out on the engine is there a massive and loudly snapping white/blue spark? If not, your ignition is weak.
And what did you set the timing to this time? Do you know for a fact that your timing marks line up with the engine's internals? You might just try advancing the timing more anyway, but knowing where your timing marks are in regard to the piston is critical on any engine, and these old Fords are unfortunately not blessed with consistent external markings.

Paul

The engine is a complete rebuild. The carb is brand new right out of the box. Edelbrock 14073 with vacuum advance and manual choke. I set initial timing at 12 deg BTDC. Did this with vacuum ports on carb plugged. Total timing at 3k is about 32. I connect the vacuum advance to the ported connection and not the manifold vacuum.
 

DirtDonk

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Joined
Nov 3, 2003
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48,369
Sounds good, as long as the timing marks are correct. If the rebuilder did not verify that the damper ring markings and the timing cover and pointer were matched to the actual piston location, all bets are off.

Newly rebuilt, eh? Didn't we talk about this already and you have a roller cam? I have not gone back through the thread to see if that's the case. If a roller cam then there is no issue. If on the other hand this is a flat-tappet cam in the engine then we probably have a whole new level of trouble to discuss.

So check the strength of the spark at least for now. Verify what jet size and metering rod numbers are included with this carburetor to see if over-rich is part of the problem.

Paul
 
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BoureeOne

BoureeOne

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Joined
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Messages
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Madisonville, La
Well I think I finally found the cause of all my issues. I had installed the wrong carb insulating gasket. As a result, I think it was causing butterflies to remain open even when just sitting. You can see in the photo of the insulator sitting on the intake, that the insulator is wet. I had just removed the carb, and this was how it looked. I have since replaced the carb with an Edelbrock 650 AVS2 , and the stock gasket for the carb. Engine runs perfect and starts perfect. Thanks for all the help and input guys. Video of engine running below....


https://youtu.be/nnvHY0fTmt4
 

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