Steering Help: Feels like auto pilot. Still

[silverbullet]

I have been fighting steering issues since the initial test drive. Something in there is loose and I cant seem to figure it out. It feels like a video game where the car will drive where it wants and you have to tap the wheel left and right to keep it between the lines. If the wheel is taped to hard the thing will wonder back and forth and it can get scarry. It will amplify during de-celeration or going down hill. Also during heavy acceleration.
Ive tried:

- New C-Bushings 7deg
- Removing Drop bracket for Riser Track bar bracket.
- Changed from Drop Pitman to Original
- Tie-rod over knuckel
- Switched from Close ratio P/S box to F-150 (HUGE Improvement)
- Frame brace for P/S Box
- Ball Joints Replaced
- Front Axle Joints (Needed anyway but no help)
- BP Steering/Track Bar (So no bushing issues)
- New Column - Upper/Lower and U-joints between.


It is getting better but I am just working around whatever the real issue is. Anyone out there that can help? PLEASE?/???/??

 

[broncnaz]

Try messing with tire pressures. I had a new set of tires put on and when I left the shop and got up to speed I was all over the road pulled over and found 50 psi in each tire lowered them to 30 psi and it drove like new.

 

[Scoop]

Sounds like your toe-in is not set correctly. You might have too little or possibly very slight a toe-out condition. What did you set it at when you changed the tie-rod?

 

[silverbullet]

As far as Psi I will check. During the steering work this last time I put a new set of tires on so not sure will check.

On the Toe-in-out. Not sure of that either. During the last alingment I believe they told me that it was a bit out. But the Tie-rod was turned in as far as possible. Should it be exactly centered?

 

[broncnaz]

It needs to be toed in here's a link to show how to do it. If your tierod is already all the way closed up you made a slight mistake when you ordered the tierod setup shouldnt be a problem to cut the needed amount off the end of one of the tierods to get some adjustment back. check out the front end alignment PDF in this link. http://bcbroncos.com/info.html

 

[lars]

Don't guess. Take it in for alignment again and ask them to check camber & caster while they are at it. They may argue that since they can't adjust those, there's no point in checking it. Have them do it anyway, then report back with the numbers. Just because you have 7 degree C bushings doesn't mean you have enough caster. If it's less than about 3 degrees positive the handling can get pretty squirrelly, especially with big tires. Also, big tires affect toe-in. The tires move around enough that at speed your effective toe-in decreases. Better to be on the high side (more toe-in) of the spec than the low side.

I went through this a few years ago. With 4.5" coils and 7 degree bushings, caster was +1.5 degrees. Added "Caster Correctors" to get another +1.5 degrees. It helped, but was still vague. Did major surgery on the front axle. Cut off the inner knuckles, rotated them back 10 degrees, welded them back on. Running 2 degree C bushings the caster comes in at +5 degrees. Much better. Finally the steering wheel self-centers.

 

[silverbullet]

Thanks all. Did lower the tire psi to 35 from 50-52. This did help but it only made the "problem" less noticible. I will get another alingment and present the numbers this weekend. Hoping some day to have her 1 finger drivable and have it want to correct the steering around corners.

 

[Scoop]

Thanks all. Did lower the tire psi to 35 from 50-52. This did help but it only made the "problem" less noticible. I will get another alingment and present the numbers this weekend. Hoping some day to have her 1 finger drivable and have it want to correct the steering around corners.

You'll get there - my trail rig now tracks straight down the highway hands off at 70 mph. But it didn't start out that way! Get your caster and toe-in set right and you should be OK.

 

[broncnaz]

Sounds good tire pressure may still be to high but defintely get the aligment checked first then adjust the TP till it handles better or worse I usually run between 25 and 30 psi in my tires depending on how they react.

 

[DonsBolt]

Try 32 psi front and 30 psi rear

I found those psi worked best for me and 35 BFG's

 

[Flash69]

I bought me a digital gauge for my tires. I always thought when i heard the nascar bunch talking about changing a pound here or 1/2 a pound there that it was a crock but the digital gauge that i bought can put the amount in each tire exact and i was amazed at the difference it made.

 

[silverbullet]

Out driving it again last night. Def. better. Going to try a bit lower as advised and maby try a digital gauge. Seems like a needed tool. Thanks.

 

[lars]

If you are feeling brave, try this:
http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=2842
Lot of work, great results.

For the record, I'm not trying to be a smartass with the above remark. Bu it does require some confidence in your wrenching/fab skills. Still, apart from the sheer amount of work involved, it's not that technologically difficult, and when you are finished you have improved all aspects of the geometry of your D44. In fact probably better than stock, since Dana was pretty sloppy when they welded those housings together.

 

[jww807]

ok well I just got on here and need help with my alignment numbers and loose steering. I just got my alignment checked and need help on proper numbers and ways to adjust the "unadjustables".

camber is .8 Deg left front, 1.4 deg right front
caster is .9 deg LF, 1.2 deg Rf
toe is .16 deg both sides.

I am assuming they are all POS because because of this print out is not telling me otherwise.
oh and how do I change between inches and degrees, or does it matter.

 

[scsm76]

ok well I just got on here and need help with my alignment numbers and loose steering. I just got my alignment checked and need help on proper numbers and ways to adjust the "unadjustables".

camber is .8 Deg left front, 1.4 deg right front
caster is .9 deg LF, 1.2 deg Rf
toe is .16 deg both sides.

I am assuming they are all POS because because of this print out is not telling me otherwise.
oh and how do I change between inches and degrees, or does it matter.

Those don't look to bad except for the caster numbers, you want them to atleast 3.5°, but 5° is best. To change your caster you need to change out the c-bushings, unless you already have the 7° ones and there installed correctly. What lift and tire size do you have?

 

[jww807]

3.5", running 33" tires. and I have no idea what c-bushings are it it. I am really not looking at spending a bunch of money right now I actually have to sell the truck but I would like some ideas to see if I can fix it correctly on the cheap.

 

[scsm76]

You could change the bushings, they are only $35, if you shop around you might even find them cheaper.
http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=75_76&products_id=313

If it still needs more this would be the next thing that is reletivily cheap.
http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=24_61&products_id=261