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Steering Locking Up When Turning in Reverse

NJBronk

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So I recently replaced my suspension, including all bushings, and installed a new Borgeson steering box. Had an alignment done and it was driving great.

Just today I was backing into a parking spot on the right side, and my steering wheel locked up. I couldn't turn it either way going in reverse, I had to put it in first gear and start rolling to free it up.

I thought maybe it was a fluke, but I was able to replicate it again exactly. It didn't even really feel like I was at full lock, but I'm not sure. It doesn't happen when turning the same direction going forwards. When it locked up again I got out and looked at the steering shaft and didn't see any obvious binding or anything that would explain it there.

Any ideas what it can be and/or where to start looking?
 

JB Fab

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Do you have to old-school double shock mount on the front of the radius arm cap?
If so check to see if the tie-rod adjuster bolts are catching on it.......
 

DirtDonk

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Also check that your adjusting sleeve nuts on the tie-rod are not catching on the track bar bolt
 

DirtDonk

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Post some detailed shots of your steering linkage when you can. Both when the wheels are centered, and when turned all the way in the direction in which they lock up going in reverse.
 

bronco italiano

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Do you have to old-school double shock mount on the front of the radius arm cap?
If so check to see if the tie-rod adjuster bolts are catching on it.......
You mean the "Heco Big Yellow" steering stabilizers?
 
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NJBronk

NJBronk

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So I think I figured it out.

First, not the main issue, but my tires are hitting the radius arms when fully turned - how do I prevent this?

But the concerning thing (and why it was happening before full lock) is that it appears the tie rod adjusting sleeve bolt is snagging on the center ridge of the c bushing cap:

IMG_3938.jpeg


IMG_3939.jpeg


IMG_3940.jpeg


What’s the move here?

I think if I Jack it up and turn the wheels to the left, I’d be able to get that bolt in from the backside. I’m thinking just the bolt head would have enough clearance?

Do you think the adjusting sleeve would stay in place if I remove and reinsert that whole bolt? Maybe with the wheels back on the ground? I don’t want to mess up my new alignment….

Or is there something else I can/should do?
 

Oldtimer

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Put some paint/ink marks on sleeve and tie rod, so you can get back to start point. Loosen both bolts, rotate sleeve, reverse bolts, rotate back to paint marks and torque bolts.
If it still rubs, you may be able to rotate the sleeve a little without changing toe in to much to mess with alignment?
Or take it back to alignment shop, and ask why they left it like this.
 

DirtDonk

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You mean the "Heco Big Yellow" steering stabilizers?
No, but that’s a good one!
What Jon meant, I believe, is that there were dual shock kits that had a weld-on tab right there on the C-cap ridge, right where your bolt is actually hitting.
Made it even more likely to happen in those cases, than without the shock mount.
 

DirtDonk

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First, not the main issue, but my tires are hitting the radius arms when fully turned - how do I prevent this?
On the inside trailing edge (I believe) of each steering knuckle, there is an adjustable steering stop. It’s an actual bolt, and there is, more often than not, a small tack weld holding it in its factory adjusted position.
Sometimes the weld has to be ground down, but as often as not, you can simply twist it with a wrench and break the tack weld loose.
Adjust the bolt out enough to hit the steering yoke first, before the tire contacts the radius arm.

If you have a GM disc brake conversion, sometimes the knuckles are ground down so much that the location of the steering stop is compromised. If you have those brakes, you may not have the steering stops any more.
Take a peek back there and let us know.
But the concerning thing (and why it was happening before full lock) is that it appears the tie rod adjusting sleeve bolt is snagging on the center ridge of the c bushing cap:
What’s the move here?
As already mentioned, just fix it. Getting your alignment slightly off, or moving a bolt, or twisting a sleeve a fraction of an inch, are all secondary concerns to the primary concern of having your steering lock up.
That one thing outweighs all others at this point.
I think if I Jack it up and turn the wheels to the left, I’d be able to get that bolt in from the backside. I’m thinking just the bolt head would have enough clearance?
You got it. As suggested, flip them both around and see if that fixes the issue.
If not, or if you think it’s still passing close enough to cause a problem if things flex, or if you turn even tighter, then put the adjusting sleeve clamps in a different position.
Most of them are floating so you don’t even have to twist the sleeve to get the offending appendages out of the way.
However, some of them have a little knobs on the sleeve to ensure that they keep the same orientation in relation to the sleeve. In that case, you may actually have to turn the sleeve a little bit after all.
Do you think the adjusting sleeve would stay in place if I remove and reinsert that whole bolt?
It can’t move unless you twist it.
You could remove the bolts and clamps completely, and it’s not going anywhere just sitting there. You don’t wanna drive it that way of course, but changing the orientation of the bolts does not change the adjustment.
Maybe with the wheels back on the ground? I don’t want to mess up my new alignment….
You’re perfectly safe as long as you don’t drive it with the bolts loose. Nothing changes unless you change it. They are threaded, so just don’t turn the sleeves if you don’t have to.
But like Oldtimer suggested, you can also mark where it is, and return it back to that position when you’re done.
Every adjustment of the tie rod and drag link is repeatable and returnable to original positions. If for some reason, you do have to turn the sleeve, then turn it back the same amount, or to your marks that you made.
 
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NJBronk

NJBronk

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Ah, I didn’t think about just rotating the clamps…. It’s a new Wild Horses tie rod kit, I can’t remember if there was an orientation tab for the clamps, but I don’t believe so (I recall trying to just line the bolt up with the opening in the sleeve).

Thanks all for the help!
 

DirtDonk

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Nice. Gotta love an easy fix!
One bit of advice now, is to give a spritz of spray paint on the threads. Or at least some kind of protectant.
Clean threads are great, and powder coat is a no-no, of course. But spray paint is thin and won’t block the threads on a tie rod because the sleeves have slots that serve two functions.
They let the Sleeves expand a little for a loose fit when they’re not clamped, and if there’s buildup in the threads from driving, it helps clean them out when you’re adjusting things.
And a little bit of spray paint beats rust any day.
 
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NJBronk

NJBronk

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Thanks, that makes sense.

This truck never sees the rain (and certainly not snow/salt), but I do like to use woolwax in places that could rust. I'll probably put a coat of that in there.

I was also looking at it and wondering if I should use a jam nut or something? Don't love the vertical bolt with nut on the bottom...
 
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NJBronk

NJBronk

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…and threw some jam nuts on because, why not?

IMG_3948.jpeg
 

DirtDonk

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Yeah, "why not" is a perfectly valid excuse for most things Bronco!

Paul
 
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