Strange Noise After Clutch Replacement

[Chief Master Sergeant]

My wife's 67 was way overdue a new clutch, so last summer, we pulled everything and replaced it. LUK Clutch kit and new flywheel. After getting everything back together and taking it for a test drive, I started experiencing a a strange sound from what appeared to be the tranny or transfer case. So, I pulled the transfer case and rebuilt it. Reinstalled and same sound. Took it and had someone rebuild it and the same sound. Thought maybe it was transmission, so I bought another one and same sound. Now I'm kind of at a loss. We test drove it yesterday and after further looking, it almost seems to be coming from the clutch area. The sound is like a wobble sound, with a whine. Doesn't always occur though. No noticeable sound on startup, but while driving the sound comes and goes. Could this be the clutch? Harmonic balancer maybe? Any ideas of what to look for? I'll pull the motor this time if it looks like the clutch. Tired of fighting the transmission and transfer case. Thanks in advance.

 

[Timmy390]

Dang "Top", your having a bad run of luck.

Check and make sure all the rubber mounts (trans cross member and engine) are in good shape and tight.

Tim

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Dang "Top", your having a bad run of luck.

Check and make sure all the rubber mounts (trans cross member and engine) are in good shape and tight.

Tim

You aren't kidding. I'll check those. Pretty sure everything is tight, but you never know. Thanks

 

[SHX669]

Is your clutch "rod" adjusted correctly ? The diaphram type clutch disks take more travel than the Ford 3 finger style . I had to adjust mine so the clutch disengages at the bottom of the pedal instead of the top like my 3 finger disk .
In other words �� - maybe your throwout bearing is turning when the clutch is engaged

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Is your clutch "rod" adjusted correctly ? The diaphram type clutch disks take more travel than the Ford 3 finger style . I had to adjust mine so the clutch disengages at the bottom of the pedal instead of the top like my 3 finger disk .
In other words �� - maybe your throwout bearing is turning when the clutch is engaged

Never considered that, But I'll try it. The clutch is smooth and shifting is effortless. Thanks

 

[Jebus]

When I installed an 11 inch diaphragm clutch in mine, the spring steel straps that connect the pressure plate to the clutch housing were scraping around the inside of the bell housing. I used the largest cast bell housing I had. I had to trim the corners of those spring steel straps...

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

When I installed an 11 inch diaphragm clutch in mine, the spring steel straps that connect the pressure plate to the clutch housing were scraping around the inside of the bell housing. I used the largest cast bell housing I had. I had to trim the corners of those spring steel straps...

Interesting! This noise comes and goes though. Seems move prevalent in third gear (Stock tranny) Almost sounds like a wheel bearing going bad. Guess I could check that too, but it's all relatively new, with limited miles on them. Plus, the sound appears to be coming from the bell housing forward.

 

[jw0747]

Could be the clutch pilot bearing? Replaced when clutch replaced?

 

[jim3326]

Dang "Top", your having a bad run of luck.

Check and make sure all the rubber mounts (trans cross member and engine) are in good shape and tight.

Tim

Of course he is, he's got 2 Broncos!;D

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Could be the clutch pilot bearing? Replaced when clutch replaced?

Yeah, new pilot bearing.


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[DirtDonk]

You didn't happen to install a suspension at the same time by any chance, did you?
Anything else you did other than the clutch, before driving it extensively in other words?

By all means check the adjustment and freeplay no matter what. You definitely don't want a throwout bearing dragging even occasionally.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

My question about the lift was revolving around the thought of driveline vibration, but along those lines this could be one of those "coincidental failures" that we run into so often on these now very old rigs.
Perhaps your CV assembly is in need of some TLC.

When was the last time you lubed the double-cardan joints and centering ball?

Paul

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

My question about the lift was revolving around the thought of driveline vibration, but along those lines this could be one of those "coincidental failures" that we run into so often on these now very old rigs.
Perhaps your CV assembly is in need of some TLC.

When was the last time you lubed the double-cardan joints and centering ball?

Paul

Thought maybe it was driveshaft too...six months ago. So I bought a new Woods driveshaft. Lubricated it when I installed it, but no change. Great thought though. I may have to video tape it. Thanks brother. You always have great suggestions.


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[Chief Master Sergeant]

So, is it possible this could be caused by putting a 50oz flywheel on, versus the 28oz. I bought a new flywheel off Summit and it was supposed to be the correct one, but maybe I, or they, screwed up. Would the wrong one cause these issues? Really want to get this thing on the road.

 

[oldiron]

You'd know immediately if it was the wrong balance. Big vibrations that get larger and more severe with rpm increases. I'm still with the others on the TOB being engaged.
Greg

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

You'd know immediately if it was the wrong balance. Big vibrations that get larger and more severe with rpm increases. I'm still with the others on the TOB being engaged.
Greg

Is that something I can correct without pulling this thing apart?

 

[oldiron]

Mine was corrected by adjusting (shortening in my case) the clutch adjusting rod.
Greg

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Mine was corrected by adjusting (shortening in my case) the clutch adjusting rod.
Greg

Lower or upper? I just tried to adjust the lower and making it shorter made the pedal throw way to short. Ive always been taught to snug the lower up to the clutch lever arm and attach the spring. The upper should just be to adjust pedal height, correct?


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[EPB72]

the pedal height is adjusted by the pedal bump stop on the pedal support ,,,the upper rod is adjusted because of body lift to get the bell crank back in the correct plain of motion ,,the lower rod is for adjusting free play I like to start with about 1/4 inch free play

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Okay, I read my Chiltons manual and think I have it adjusted correctly. Whine is still present. Watch video at link. It almost sounds like a wheel bearing, but I swear it’s coming from the transmission/ bell housing
https://youtu.be/ykTccZhJxzQ


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