Stretched Bronco - Leaf Springs

[DirtDonk]

Good question. Look for any part numbers stamped into the body and/or printed on the labels. Doubtful they'd be on the labels, but I admit I have not looked for the actual part numbers on the shock bodies before.

While you're at it, check the build-dates on the tires. Tires "wear out" from old age often before they age out from wear.
It happens a lot with projects that sit.

paul

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

Good question. Look for any part numbers stamped into the body and/or printed on the labels. Doubtful they'd be on the labels, but I admit I have not looked for the actual part numbers on the shock bodies before.

While you're at it, check the build-dates on the tires. Tires "wear out" from old age often before they age out from wear.
It happens a lot with projects that sit.

paul

Lol...new tires is the 1st thing I did after driving it around the block. I think they were manufactured in 2001 or 2002. This is how it is looking today after new tires, buffing out the paint and installing a bikini top. I have new fender flares that I need to install.

 

[DirtDonk]

Wow, sure breathed some new life into that Bronco! Looks great.
I hadn't seen Mastercraft tires in a LONG time. Glad you got 'em gone.

Got any pics of the front and rear shocks overall? Looks like the rear ones are too long to begin with. Not that you're using all the up-travel every time you drive it to the store, but it could be a limiting (and damaging) factor going forth.

Speaking of which... What are your plans for use with this Bronco?

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

Lol...new tires is the 1st thing I did after driving it around the block. I think they were manufactured in 2001 or 2002. This is how it is looking today after new tires, buffing out the paint and installing a bikini top. I have new fender flares that I need to install. View attachment 897917

Good looking Rig there!! Needs to be wheeling somewhere

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

Wow, sure breathed some new life into that Bronco! Looks great.
I hadn't seen Mastercraft tires in a LONG time. Glad you got 'em gone.

Got any pics of the front and rear shocks overall? Looks like the rear ones are too long to begin with. Not that you're using all the up-travel every time you drive it to the store, but it could be a limiting (and damaging) factor going forth.

Speaking of which... What are your plans for use with this Bronco?

Paul

I'll take some pics tonight and maybe take some measurements to help determine what I have. Primarily we are going to use it as a weekend cruiser. We do want to do some light off-roading, but definitely nothing along the lines of what the previous owner was planning. As soon as I get it a little more road worthy, a buddy of mine wants to take me up to Hidden Falls (an off-road park here in Texas) for some off-road fun. It currently has 5.14 gears with a Detroit Locker...would like to change those out for 4.56 or 4.11 trac lok unit. The Detroit Locker is a little much for my needs. Beyond that, we need to sort out the rest of the suspension and add bumpers...then just enjoy it.

 

[GloNDark]

That is a great looking Bronco. The stretch is perfect!

 

[Geiri]

That would be Ford Econoline leafs I think..

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

That would be Ford Econoline leafs I think..

Interesting you say that...previous owner mentioned something about pulling parts off of an Econoline but I wasn't sure what. What do you see that makes you think that?

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

Got any pics of the front and rear shocks overall? Looks like the rear ones are too long to begin with. Not that you're using all the up-travel every time you drive it to the store, but it could be a limiting (and damaging) factor going forth.

I climbed around under the bronco last night and found part numbers and took some measurements. As they sit, the back shocks measure 21 3/4" eye to eye and the front are 22 3/4. They are both the same part number and according to Bilstein the extended length is 28" and collapsed is 17". I'm not sure if that is eye to eye or full length.

 

[Apogee]

Advertised shock length measurements should be eye to eye.

 

[Geiri]

Interesting you say that...previous owner mentioned something about pulling parts off of an Econoline but I wasn't sure what. What do you see that makes you think that?

The length matches my 1978 E250 Econoline

 

[Geiri]

I climbed around under the bronco last night and found part numbers and took some measurements. As they sit, the back shocks measure 21 3/4" eye to eye and the front are 22 3/4. They are both the same part number and according to Bilstein the extended length is 28" and collapsed is 17". I'm not sure if that is eye to eye or full length.

Your front Coil spring looks under stress. Is your Track bar adjusted?

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

Your front Coil spring looks under stress. Is your Track bar adjusted?

I see what you are looking at...and to answer your question, I have not touched the track bar and wouldn't know where to start with adjusting it.

 

[DirtDonk]

The shocks listings don't seem to put valving in very high regard, but without the catalog in front of me I did find this on Summit:
170/60 valving recommended for use on dual shock setups, 11.00 in. travel.

So it would seem to me that the shocks were/are indeed part of your "too soft" issue. Might be fine for some situations, but either you should get a second set to double them up as recommended, or get versions with different (stiffer) valving.
The might be acceptable (but only just) for the rear, but they're far too soft for the front.

They're not quite too long like I was thinking now that I can see the whole shock. But they are obviously biased more towards suspension droop than compression. The PO could have gotten away with shorter shocks, but they should have enough compression distance for most standard driving situations. But if you start working it to the point that the shocks bottom out, you would do well to consider shorter versions.

The spring bowing could be a result of the lift as well. The radius arms and spring cups tilt and that causes a coil to go all squirrely in different directions. But as Geiri was saying, the axle being off-center can do that as well. That's what trackbar drop brackets, trackbar risers, and adjustable trackbars are designed to correct.
But the tilt will still give you the twists.

You should measure your overall lift just so you know what you're working with. Measure the distance between the top of the axle tubes and the bottom of the frame rails front and back (or all four corners if you want to know if you have any lean) and compare to 7" in the front and 6" in the rear as stock-ish.
There are variations even from the factory, so give or take a 1/2 inch or so and you have an approximate amount of lift.

But the bottom line in your quest for better handling (Hah! As if there is one single bottom line!) is you need stiffer damping for your Bronco. Probably front and rear.

Paul

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

The shocks listings don't seem to put valving in very high regard, but without the catalog in front of me I did find this on Summit:
170/60 valving recommended for use on dual shock setups, 11.00 in. travel.

So it would seem to me that the shocks were/are indeed part of your "too soft" issue. Might be fine for some situations, but either you should get a second set to double them up as recommended, or get versions with different (stiffer) valving.
The might be acceptable (but only just) for the rear, but they're far too soft for the front.

They're not quite too long like I was thinking now that I can see the whole shock. But they are obviously biased more towards suspension droop than compression. The PO could have gotten away with shorter shocks, but they should have enough compression distance for most standard driving situations. But if you start working it to the point that the shocks bottom out, you would do well to consider shorter versions.

The spring bowing could be a result of the lift as well. The radius arms and spring cups tilt and that causes a coil to go all squirrely in different directions. But as Geiri was saying, the axle being off-center can do that as well. That's what trackbar drop brackets, trackbar risers, and adjustable trackbars are designed to correct.
But the tilt will still give you the twists.

You should measure your overall lift just so you know what you're working with. Measure the distance between the top of the axle tubes and the bottom of the frame rails front and back (or all four corners if you want to know if you have any lean) and compare to 7" in the front and 6" in the rear as stock-ish.
There are variations even from the factory, so give or take a 1/2 inch or so and you have an approximate amount of lift.

But the bottom line in your quest for better handling (Hah! As if there is one single bottom line!) is you need stiffer damping for your Bronco. Probably front and rear.

Paul

Paul, that is very helpful. Thanks for the writeup. We are heading out tomorrow for a long weekend, but I'll take some more measurements and report back. Just watched a video on adjusting the track bar...looks simple enough...so I might try to knock that out as well.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is there an anti-sway bar in the back as well? I can see the front one, but not seeing one in the back. As a last ditch effort, you could add one there too.

Is the trackbar even adjustable? Theoretically with all the work done previously, an adjustable one would have been added. But since it was still a project in progress, they might not have gotten there yet.
Shoot a picture of your front end from straight on so we can better see the full linkage, and then get one of the trackbar specifically, especially at it's upper end at the frame by the steering box.

And it looks like your rear tires are inflated too high. Notice the "clean" areas to the outside of the tread area? And inside that is a "dirty" area in the center? That generally indicates that the tire is riding primarily on the center of the tread.
If you let a few pounds at a time until the wear pattern shows almost all the way out to the edge, you'll get more even wear and, in most cases, better handling overall.
Not that handling cares all that much about a few extra pounds of pressure in the rear tires, but it's still a thing and you can experiment with the tires front and rear until you reach a happy medium.

Paul

 

[Fair Oaks Mustang]

Is there an anti-sway bar in the back as well? I can see the front one, but not seeing one in the back. As a last ditch effort, you could add one there too.

Is the trackbar even adjustable? Theoretically with all the work done previously, an adjustable one would have been added. But since it was still a project in progress, they might not have gotten there yet.
Shoot a picture of your front end from straight on so we can better see the full linkage, and then get one of the trackbar specifically, especially at it's upper end at the frame by the steering box.

And it looks like your rear tires are inflated too high. Notice the "clean" areas to the outside of the tread area? And inside that is a "dirty" area in the center? That generally indicates that the tire is riding primarily on the center of the tread.
If you let a few pounds at a time until the wear pattern shows almost all the way out to the edge, you'll get more even wear and, in most cases, better handling overall.
Not that handling cares all that much about a few extra pounds of pressure in the rear tires, but it's still a thing and you can experiment with the tires front and rear until you reach a happy medium.

Paul

Yes, I do know that it is adjustable...thought I had a picture but apparently not. I installed the front sway bar which made a huge difference and did not install a rear one and I don't think I'll need it...I'll make that call after new shocks all the way around. With my 66 Mustang (I know, totally different vehicles) I liked the ride and handling a lot more without a rear sway bar. With the new springs out back the Bronco feels pretty good for now.

Thank you for the tip on the tires.

 

[brewchief]

For a single bilstein look for 255/70 valving for the rear and 360/80 for the front.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[DirtDonk]

If you need to speed up that version of testing the air pressure, you can always use a line of chalk or even some talcum powder on the tire.
Wears off very quickly with just a few rotations so instead of driving around for a little while you just have to drive it down the street a few yards to see where the chalk still remains.

 

[DirtDonk]

Are there any secondary shock mounting points already in existence? Or is your bronco set up strictly for single shocks at each corner?