Stuck in 2W Gear - can't shift to 4W

[clemens]

Hi Guys,

I've bought a Bronco thru this Forum from Bajafresh and after restoring it, I found out that the 4Wheel Drive does not work. The Car is a 1967 Bronco with a three on the tree.

The Problem is that the Floor shifter for the 4W Drive does not move at all. It's stuck in 2W.

Since the mechanics here in Germany do not know these Broncos very well, it's hard to repair it without spending thousands of euros/dollars.

Can somebody please help me, in describing whats the best way to identify the problem and how to fix it? I would appreciate a detailed description

Many thanks and best regards from Berlin Germany
Clemens

 

[blubuckaroo]

Welcome to Classic Broncos Clemens.

Are you trying to make this shift while stopped?

Shifting back and forth between 2HI and 4H1 should be done while rolling and not while stopped, and the hubs need to be in the locked position.

Shifting between 4HI and 4LO is different. The car should be stopped to make this shift.

 

[spap]

Did you back up a little and try it. The can be finicky and the truck is 50 years old so linkages can be a little worn

 

[FordBronc]

1. Insp all the bushings and linkage that you can from under it.
2. Lock in both the front hubs.
3. Have it in 1st gear and slowly moving fwd (3 to 5 mph) on a soft surface, like gravel or grass.
4. Applying steady easy pressure on the shift lever in the 4wd/4HI direction.
5. Give the truck a slight throttle "blip" and see it it will go then. If not, then try the same procedure in reverse.

 

[Apogee]

Is it have the original T-shift D20 transfer case or does it have a later J-shift unit? I know the J-shift units can be very difficult to shift, especially if/when the linkage gets sloppy and worn like my '77 was...although nothing a little back and forth, turning, etc doesn't usually fix.

 

[clemens]

First of all - many thanks for the quick reply.

Yes - we (me and my german mech) tried shifting while it the car was stopped, engine off.
The transfer case is original nothing has been changed.

I will try to do the things you've recommended tomorrow and will post an update then. (its "bed time" here already)

thanks
Clemens

 

[DirtDonk]

An easy-shifting T-shift version can be shifted while stopped, rolling, in gear or in neutral. Lockouts/free-running hubs locked-in or in the free position.
Now, that's not to say that a tight one will do all that easily. The T-shifter in my '71 shifts like velvet covered butter under any circumstances. The new-ish one in my '68 is very finicky and does not shift easily at all. Rolling or stopped. I have to maintain a much heavier pressure with my hand. I have not figured out why yet.

Is yours an original shift lever with the T-handle and push button lock release? Is there any chance that the push-button is not releasing the little lever in the lock plate? That would lock things up solid for sure.
If you still have the plastic floor cover with position indicator installed, it's easy enough to lift it up to see what's going on underneath.

It's also possible that the bolt that acts as a pivot is too tight. If the locking nut is tightened down too much, you can't budge the shift lever.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[clemens]

Hi Paul,

its an original t-shifter with the knob. we've removed the plastic cover and the thing is that the knob is broken and the little lever in the lock plate is in the "pulled position". Which is something that we have to fix but it's not blocking the shifting.

Clemens

 

[DirtDonk]

Well of course it couldn't have been that easy anyway! On to the next then.
What about the pivot bolt?

And while you've got access, maybe spray some lube on the shift rails. They do get a little sticky when they get dry sometimes.

And what lubricant are you using in the transfer case?
Factory specification calls for 50wt motor oil. Many of us have found some thinner gear lubes, such as synthetic 75w/90's work well due to them acting so "thin" in the real world.

Part of the reason for the motor oil specification is that gear lubes of the day had additives in them that attacked the soft metals in the bushings and thrust washers.
But a secondary advantage of such thin lubricants was that the rear output bearings and the shift rods rely on oil splash to get their dose of the slippery stuff.

Paul

 

[clemens]

Dear All,

in the meantime my mechanic could solve the shifting problem. -> thanks to your comments. But it's not really shifting smoothly.

But the thing that occurred now is that the front axle is leaking. And it will not surprise you, that we need help in fixing that as well. To safe hours in finding out how to fix it and what needs to be done, I would love to ask you once more for a detailed description how we can seal the front axle. What needs to be removed and how it's done?

Please be as detailed a possible so I can give my mechanic the best advice.

Many thanks once again.

Clemens

 

[Justafordguy]

Where is the axle leaking from?

 

[KyleQ]

It is probably leaking from the axle seals as these trucks seem to sit for long periods of time without the front axle moving, and recent movement probably disturbed the seals and created a leak.

You have to strip the axle down to remove the axle shafts so the carrier can be removed to replace the differential seals - which isn't a fun job either.

 

[Rustytruck]

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186673