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Temp gauge.
- Thread starter rjcruz27
- Start date
Yes. When the sensor gets hot it grounds the wire so grounding it to the block should cause the temp needle to move.
Broncobowsher
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The temp sensor is a variable resistor. Full resistance is full cold. Same thing if the wire is disconnected. Least resistance is full hot. The easy way to get that is bypass the resistor and put the wire straight to ground.
Don't try to add a jumper wire while connected to the sensor. The sensor is completely skipped at this point. It is a real pain to try and jam an extra wire in there. And if you do get it you will probably stretch out the terminal that it will want to fall off or just have a bad connection in the future. Just take a piece of test wire, strip back about half an inch of insulation, fold the wire back on itself. This fattens the wire up so it sticks in the hole a little bit. The V-shape of folding the wire back also helps it stick in the hole as well.
Don't try to add a jumper wire while connected to the sensor. The sensor is completely skipped at this point. It is a real pain to try and jam an extra wire in there. And if you do get it you will probably stretch out the terminal that it will want to fall off or just have a bad connection in the future. Just take a piece of test wire, strip back about half an inch of insulation, fold the wire back on itself. This fattens the wire up so it sticks in the hole a little bit. The V-shape of folding the wire back also helps it stick in the hole as well.
Hi, the other quick test is to see if you have @ 5 volts pulsing on and off at the wire you pulled off the sender.
This is the signal from the IVR (instrument voltage regulator). If either the gas,temp, or oil pressure gauges works, the IVR is working.
The only way I know of to test the wire is either check for Ohms at each end of the wire, where the meter completes the curcuit, or remove it from the temp gauge and sender, then connect it to a 12 volt power source and check the other end with your meter or test light. It is probably not the wire.
Good luck
This is the signal from the IVR (instrument voltage regulator). If either the gas,temp, or oil pressure gauges works, the IVR is working.
The only way I know of to test the wire is either check for Ohms at each end of the wire, where the meter completes the curcuit, or remove it from the temp gauge and sender, then connect it to a 12 volt power source and check the other end with your meter or test light. It is probably not the wire.
Good luck
Broncobowsher
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Do you have a working fuel and/or oil pressure gauge? If they work you have a working IVR (insterment voltage regulator). If all 3 are dead, start at the IVR.
If all that isn't working is the temp gauge, and grounding the wire at the sensor doesn't make it read, now is the time to head under the dash. Actually it is easier to work on the back of the gauges from under the hood, take the driver's side air box out and you have easy access. Find the temp gauge and it will have 2 wires attached to it. One goes to the IVR that is shared with fuel and oil gauges. The other is the other end of the sensor wire. Ground that one. Gauge still doesn't move, now you need a meter. Put on ohms and with both wires disconnected from the gauge measure across the 2 posts. You should get a number, tricky part is watch for an "M" or a "K" on the meter, that is the scaler. A reading with an M, you are probably measuring the resistance between your fingers. Have no reading, the heater element in the gauge is burned out.
That sensor wire has one plug if it appears to be a wire issue. Where the engine harness plugs into the body harness at the back of the intake.
If all that isn't working is the temp gauge, and grounding the wire at the sensor doesn't make it read, now is the time to head under the dash. Actually it is easier to work on the back of the gauges from under the hood, take the driver's side air box out and you have easy access. Find the temp gauge and it will have 2 wires attached to it. One goes to the IVR that is shared with fuel and oil gauges. The other is the other end of the sensor wire. Ground that one. Gauge still doesn't move, now you need a meter. Put on ohms and with both wires disconnected from the gauge measure across the 2 posts. You should get a number, tricky part is watch for an "M" or a "K" on the meter, that is the scaler. A reading with an M, you are probably measuring the resistance between your fingers. Have no reading, the heater element in the gauge is burned out.
That sensor wire has one plug if it appears to be a wire issue. Where the engine harness plugs into the body harness at the back of the intake.
check the water level. if the sensor isnt touching the water then it wont read hot. had this happen once
Hi, you can check the oil pressure sender wire to see the pulsing current.
If you don't get the pulsing current at the temp sender wire, it will never work.
A new sender will not change that.
Good luck
If you don't get the pulsing current at the temp sender wire, it will never work.
A new sender will not change that.
Good luck
Broncobowsher
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If you took the wire off the sensor and grounded it, and the gauge didn't more.
Buying a sensor is a waste of money. You already determined there is a problem somewhere else.
Buying a sensor is a waste of money. You already determined there is a problem somewhere else.
On my 76 bronco, my gauge has been reading 20° higher than it should , was reading the past post by jckkys and said a standard TS58 is the right one I changed it out drove it around for a half hour and it’s right now reads correct now I gotta work on my voltmeter. It’s always in the minus but it’s not.
It shows 14 .4 v running check it with my fluke meter Further inspection, I don’t think the needle on the dash gauge ever changes I do have a 3G explorer set up serpentine I think it’s original gauge . oil pressure Gauge reads high like 80 I hooked up a manual gauge when I install the new engine 12k miles ago and it’s about 45 or 50 . It looks like I should start with the right sending unit. I just read about Napa Op6091SB Looks like the same thing for my 65 mustang
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Your ammeter no longer reads correctly because of the 3G install. It will still read current that is being used by accessories and the engine, but not current being produced by the alternator.
You will have to get a voltmeter in its place if you want to read battery function anymore.
Completely different wiring scenario with the more powerful 3G alternator, so the ammeter loop no longer has any positive current to sense.
It’s going directly to the battery now, instead of through the old charging wire.
You will have to get a voltmeter in its place if you want to read battery function anymore.
Completely different wiring scenario with the more powerful 3G alternator, so the ammeter loop no longer has any positive current to sense.
It’s going directly to the battery now, instead of through the old charging wire.
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