Thinking of building a heim joint steering setup

[Jerrod4567]

Any of you running any style heim joint steering system could you please post pics?

Thanks

 

[Tito]

I made my own out of DOM, it was surprisingly easy and cheap (well not the heims) but definitely cheaper than the aftermarket kits. Check out my build thread on the stretch. I think I spent like 60 on tube and 175 on bungs and heims. This was for tie rod, drag link and track bar. The weld in bungs make it easy to set up.

Here it is

 

[Jerrod4567]

I made my own out of DOM, it was surprisingly easy and cheap (well not the heims) but definitely cheaper than the aftermarket kits. Check out my build thread on the stretch. I think I spent like 60 on tube and 175 on bungs and heims. This was for tie rod, drag link and track bar. The weld in bungs make it easy to set up.

Here it is

Looks good, I was also thinking I could save a ton of money building my own, thats why im looking for pics of everyones setups. Thanks and keep em comin. One question, why use the bungs and not just tap the end of the shaft? Is the ID too large for the size heims you used?

 

[SC74]

The left hand thread tap is in the $50 range and not really worth buying unless you plan on using on other projects.

 

[lonesouth]

How much do all the bungs end up costing?

 

[H8tulooze]

I just built mine last weekend, ill get some pics and post them. Was easy and about $100 cheaper then buying them from one of the Bronco site.

 

[bryan66]

i built my own did not use left hand thread.did all right hand thread.only have to carry 1 style joint.yes pain at times but easy to fix less crap to carry.
bryan

 

[lonesouth]

whbat's the advantage of left hand thread on the ends?

 

[Jerrod4567]

whbat's the advantage of left hand thread on the ends?

You only want Left hand threads on one end, right hand threads on the other. You can adjust the linkage in or out without having to take it apart. I built a set of Cal Trac bars for my Mustang with a left and right hand tap, I cant remember the exact size I'll have to pull it out. Hopefully its the correct size ;D

 

[RFSmith]

Here's what I did.

http://broncohio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389

 

[haydenjsle]

Looks good, I was also thinking I could save a ton of money building my own, thats why im looking for pics of everyones setups. Thanks and keep em comin. One question, why use the bungs and not just tap the end of the shaft? Is the ID too large for the size heims you used?

I had my local machinist order my steering linkage DOM with the ID the correct size, so that all he had to do was run a RH/LH tap in the ends for my 3/4 heims without drilling. I think he charged me 1/2 hr labor to cut the linkage to my specs and tap all 4 ends--all I had to do was screw in my rod ends and I was done with the linkage. (Seems to me, with OD's being the same, this might also allow a slightly thicker wall than using weld in bungs). This definitely saved me time and money and improved handling as well. Sorry no pics.

 

[crawln68]

I built my own using some 1.5 x .250 wall DOM. I used the 1 ton TRE's though. I had to buy a 20' stick of the DOM and still have enough to build another set up. Let me know if you need some.

 

[trailpsycho]

I built my own using some 1.5 x .250 wall DOM. I used the 1 ton TRE's though. I had to buy a 20' stick of the DOM and still have enough to build another set up. Let me know if you need some.

I did the same, but used chromoly...with buying the taps and the best quality 1-ton rod ends I could get, it wasnt much cheaper...of course the chromoly tube was a little more $, but I have the tools to make replacements and lifetime warranties on the Moog rod ends.

 

[Tito]

I used heims on the tie rod and bottom side drag link but put a cheb 1 ton on the pitman arm (figure that was the most wearable area).

 

[Newby]

Is what haydenjsle did just as strong. If so, seems like a faster and easier way to do this. Question is, is it weaker?

 

[trailpsycho]

I tapped directly into my tubing, no there is nothing wrong with it at all. Most folks go with the thicker tube that they can slide the inserts in weld the inserts and go. Its, initially, a little more expensive to buy the taps, etc because they are about $90-120+ for the pair alone. As well, this is not something you are going to be able to slap in a vise and do by hand. You will need a lathe/milling machine. A machine shop or a good buddy with nice toys definitely helps.

Back to the welded bungs...I am sure they are plenty strong, but you have to have a machine that can get good penetration on that thick of material. As well, I have seen some discussion that the welding of the end changes the properties of the tube. I dont think this is really an issue. Its all about what you have access to. Good luck.

John

 

[calger]

I was just told the other day that i have them. I did not build mine. But here on some pic's. Good luck, i wish i had that kind of know how.