Trying to learn about wristed radius arms

[Steve]

These guys sell them,

Driven Auto Parts

Not positive, but from the pic it appears the shock mount is the wrong direction and would cause binding. It should be mounted so that the eye of the shock is parallel to the arm, not 90* to it.

 

[Broncobowsher]

If it was turned 90° then it would bind as the axle dropped away from the frame (normal suspension travel, not the articulation type of travel). I guess that you would have to double hinge the lower shock mounts if you really wanted to loosen everything up. But if you just want to loosen everything up, just leave the shocks off. That will make for a loose ride and you wouldn’t have to worry about binding shocks.

You could just use shocks with spherical rod ends and then not have to worry about which way you mount them.

 

[Mark]

It's discussions like this that make me really miss Coby Hughey's input.

 

[tonto]

You could just use shocks with spherical rod ends and then not have to worry about which way you mount them.

A little off subject but when I was running Fox Rez shocks inboard in the rear I did get bind with spherical bearings and found I almost eliminated the bind by going to urethane.
I don’t think you will get as bad of bind as you imagine running the shock with the shock bolt going side to side of the radius arm, urethane flex’s and compress’s and is fairly forgiving, all though if you are doing some serious wheeling on a regular basis you may have to replace the urethane shock eyes a few times a year.
With that said this is how I’m running my front shocks, I do have full width axles I think you maybe have the clearance with stock width front axle, I haven’t tried to mount shocks like this on a stock width axle so I’m not sure.

 

[welndmn]

If it was turned 90° then it would bind as the axle dropped away from the frame (normal suspension travel, not the articulation type of travel). I guess that you would have to double hinge the lower shock mounts if you really wanted to loosen everything up. But if you just want to loosen everything up, just leave the shocks off. That will make for a loose ride and you wouldn’t have to worry about binding shocks.

You could just use shocks with spherical rod ends and then not have to worry about which way you mount them.

Correct, I used to give out a swviel with my wirsted arms too.

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

The way I look at it if you mount the eyes of the shocks 90* top to bottom that should help with most of the bind. Like if you run a F250 style mount, let the bottom mount stay somewhat similar to the stock mounting position. If you have a hoop style you would want the lower mount to be inline with the arm. The shock is going to pivot at the top and the bottom because of the arc of the suspension.

 

[green50gt]

well, I went down to the local machine shop(amish joint) and they said It would run me between $40 and $50 to wrist the arm. So, when I get the rear put back together, I will start on the front. I will be putting new ball joints in that same side, installing bigger axle shafts, and replacing the clutches in the limited slip.

So you guys are saying to mount the shock at a 90 degree angle from stock? The binding thing makes sense. I have to replace the shock on that corner anyway because its broken in half.

What were to happen if you both extended your radius arms, then wristed the one? I don't think I have heard of anyone doing that either.

Derek

 

[Dusty]

What were to happen if you both extended your radius arms, then wristed the one? I don't think I have heard of anyone doing that either.

There have been a couple of guys around who had both long and wristed. One of the first Coby arms was built long for a freind of his. IMO its not necessary to do both. Either one will give you more flex than you can use until magic u-joints are invented. I would suspect that having both would just make your handling more squishy. Long arms and hinged arms use different strategies to accomplish the same thing--overcome the bind in the C-bushings when flexing. Hinged arms address the problem by deleting the bind altogether, while the long arms address it by applying more leverage to overpower the bushings. Either way, once you've eliminated that problem once there's no additional benefit to trying to re-eliminate something that's already gone.

I know this comes from a desire to get the most flex possible. But remember there's a difference between trying to get the highest ramp scores and striving for optimum trailworthiness. Yes you want flex but you still want stability, and you don't want the low wheel just hanging there with no downward pressure applied to it (like revolver shackles do).

Dusty

 

[chris]

Iv'e also heard its a good idea to weld additional material to the drivers side arm to strengthen it. Helps to take up the strength lost in the arms by wristing.

 

[tonto]

My setup is this. 75, 5.5 coils, D44 track lock, 3" body, 33" TSL's. It had 38s on it. Other than that, thats the way I bought it, so dont give me any flack.

I have to move my radius arm mounts anyway, because they are still at the stock location with the 5.5 lift coils. So I could do something there.


Thanks, Derek

Please don’t take this as I’m flaming you or being dis-respectful towards you in anyway.

Be careful with that much lift and stock width axles and what seems like you have little wheeling experience you might be a good candidate for a roll over with out a wristed arm.
My observation is you don’t really understand or didn’t when you started this thread what and how a wristed arm works, my concern is as I’ve observed some other people on the trail in the last few years break drive train and turn themselves over on there sides due to in my opinion modifications and lack of trail time behind the wheel of there rigs to get a feel for how there rigs perform with these modifications off road.
I’ve said something similar to this before, at least for me except the money spent on doing the 2nd & 3rd generations of the same upgrades, I’m glad they happened, the evolution my E.B. has gone through has afforded me the time to learn what its capable of and what’s it’s not and so far help keep me out of harms way, and help to develop something similar to our equilibrium of the inner ear, having a feel for just how off camber I can get when side hilling and not roll over for example.
My advice for you is to install a really good lift kit if doesn’t have it all ready, like from B.C. Broncos, see how much flex you really need for the kind of wheeling you will be doing, for me I have to remember to unpin my wristed arm, I believe most of the lift kits out there will give all the flex for the trail the average person needs.
And drop that lift down to a 2.5” or 3.5” suspension lift and go to if any preferably 1” or 2” body lift, and clearance that sheet metal for those big meats, my main focus right now with my E.B. is to lighten it up and get the center of gravity lower to the ground to have more fun on the off camber stuff and less fear of going over on my side.
What is the reason you are moving your radius arm mounts? You mean the ones on the axle (wedges)?
If your doing this to correct pinion angle, it will have a negative effect on your caster, and it will probably cause you to drift around in your lane on the road, just FYI in case you didn’t realize this.
Basically you can always wrist a radius arm later if you feel you need some more flex.
Here's a link with a little info click here
Good luck, Francois.

 

[green50gt]

Tonto,

No offense taken. I am not new to 4 wheeling...Just Bronco's. My daily driver is a 97 Wrangler with a 5" lift and 33's. It has seen quite a few trips to the Badlands here in Indiana. Thats why I bought this Bronco, so I wouldn't hurt my Jeep. I can trash the bronco, and not have to worry about how I will get to work the next day.

My Bronco does indeed have too much lift. I was tossing the idea around about just pulling the body lift out all together, However at this point, the focus is to get both the front and rear axles assembled, and get it running again. So your right, I have no idea what it will wheel like. The rear fenders are already hacked out, and the front has been bashed in.

Moving the radius arm mounts. I mean the ones on the frame, near the transfer case. I was told with 3.5" lift or more, that new mounts would need to be installed to keep the radius arms at their "stock" ability. They point down pretty hard with the 5.5 coils installed.

FYI, I probably never be driving this on the street.

 

[BUCKETOBOLTS]

I dug up a set of used arms for $40. So all this talk about wristing them I had to do one myself. I still plan on wristing the axle housing when I get the time and cash. I'd say with my 3.5" springs and stock shock mounts front and rear, I doubled my suspension articulation. Even gave more movement to the rear. Now I have to fab up some mounts and get the longer shocks.

P.S. having to get out pin and unpin the arm is a PITA...