Under Hood Fuse Panel

[Jeff10]

Hi,

One of the mods that I'm thinking about for this spring is the installation of an under-the-hood fuse panel.

After reading of several different fires and near-misses, I'm thinking it would be worth adding some level of safety.

Basically, I'm thinking that adding fuse or circuit breaker protection for add-ons such as winch, propane solenoid, horn, ARB compressor, additional lights, and several other circuits that should be protected.

I have read about folks scavenging fuse boxes at pick-and-pulls; but, I'm not sure it would be the cleanest way to solve the problem.

The Bronco has the stock fuse block located in the glove box.

So, I'm thinking 10 to 12 circuits (possibly more). I'm not sure about the current requirements for the winch solenoid; but, I would think 25 A or less would be required.

I'm thinking something weather-proof would be best.

I'm not opposed to pick-and-pull; but, would appreciate any help on which models would be best for the application.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Jeff

 

[bronconut73]

I use an old brass marine unit. Uses old school glass tube fuses. Put it on the passengers inber fender apron back in '91. Still there doing a great job.
Every single accessory in my eb runs off that old fuse box. Nothing but the stock stuff runs through the oem fuse box inside, actually even the radio runs off my underhood fuse box.

 

[DirtDonk]

Lots of aftermarket units out there that should work at least decent for what you need.
Here's one with a basic cover, but modest footprint and easy to connect it looks like:
http://www.delcity.net/store/6!way-ATC-&-ATO-Fuse-Panel/p_793543

Another one from the same company is weatherproof and has slots for min-relays too:
http://www.delcity.net/store/Sealed...Relay-Combo-Panel-!-Partially-Bussed/p_804298

There are some slick ones as well from the marine suppliers. One brand has a cool name, but I can't think of it right now (edit: "Blue Sea" see below). Slicker packaging, but still similar to the first one I posted. Better covers perhaps, but still just covers without the full weatherstrip sealing.
I'm sure others will post up, but those are some possible options for you.

We sell the ones from Painless:http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcat/30004
But don't typically keep them in stock.

Paul

 

[Dbarnes72]

Look at the Painless website. They should have an easy solution if you're willing to part with the coin. Amazon and Summit Racing both carry the stuff...........I was looking for something similar today at NAPA etc. and didn't find anything.

 

[broncopilot67]

I Have been working on a frame off for three years. I have been looking at this site fore a long time and came across the busmen panel. this is what i did. it is water tight and has places for relay and fuses.

 

[bronco t]

I have always been a fan of the Blue Sea fuse block. It has 12 30 amp circuits with a negative / ground buss which makes it nice when wiring radios, CB, GPS, etc...

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5031/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus

 

[Pa PITT]

... I'm also registering a vote for one like Bronco T POSTED. Just go to NAPA or 'ORiley .. They have them .. TRUST ME, BUY the biggest number of fuses you can get. I've now got 2 under my hood.
... Since My Bronco is a Farm Bronco. I have 5 light up on the Light Bar ''Head Ake Rack/ Roll Bar'' .facing forward. Then 2 Utility's facing back for the back-up or to shut gates with at night. Or to get items out of the bed at night. Then I have 3... 12V outlets one for a spray rig . another for a different 12volt Deer Feeder and another for Just because. A cooling fan going to the radiator. I have power coming inside to the heater blower. And I think some of my inside lights are from these fuse panels.
. You can't have too many circuits.

 

[Steve83]

Waterproof fuse/relay blocks are really good at keeping water INSIDE. That's why no automaker uses them. If you want durability, commonality, & functionality, get an OE fuse/relay box from the JY. Some are modular, allowing you to reconfigure their size, layout, & content. The one used in '92-96 F-series/Broncos is relatively versatile and VERY easy-to-find. It accepts ~6 APR blades (0.5-40A), ~20 APX blades (20-80A), and 5 Bosch/ISO/Tyco relays (20-30A). It has a simple input lug with a molded cover, and a lid that can be painted inside to indicate each fuse's size.

This shows its internal wiring:



...but that's easy to change as shown here:

 

[wepuckett]

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243609&highlight=12v+junction

Here is a thread where the same ? was asked previously I was thinking of doing the same things and was kinda thinking about the expedition or another type I could cut out of a vehicle at a pick and pull and find the wirring diagram for after I picked it up. Was liking the idea of connecting it to the starter side of solenoid.

Will be watching this thread.

 

[JSmall]

I put a painless fuse panel and a few other things in an aluminum box on the passenger side.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the great ideas.

Lots of ways to accomplish this task.... Just need to figure out which will work best.

I do like the pick-and-pull option, and with Steve's input, there's something specific to target if I go that direction.

Thanks again for the help.

Jeff

 

[Jeff10]

Hey wepuckett,

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243609&highlight=12v+junction

Here is a thread where the same ? was asked previously I was thinking of doing the same things and was kinda thinking about the expedition or another type I could cut out of a vehicle at a pick and pull and find the wirring diagram for after I picked it up. Was liking the idea of connecting it to the starter side of solenoid.

Will be watching this thread.

I remember reading on the board sometime over the last year a thread about fuse panels from donor vehicles.... when I searched I couldn't find it.

Thanks for posting the link to your thread. It sounds like we are looking for the same info.

I'm not sure how soon I'll jump on this project; but, hopefully it will be before spring.

Good Luck

Jeff

 

[pcf_mark]

That BlueSea product is really nice and priced great. I did use a pile of junkyard parts for my EFI conversion and OEM stuff is top quality (even 15 years old!) The Painless parts are nice too but the price of the BlueSea is better!

 

[bronco t]

That BlueSea product is really nice and priced great. I did use a pile of junkyard parts for my EFI conversion and OEM stuff is top quality (even 15 years old!) The Painless parts are nice too but the price of the BlueSea is better!

The Bluesea is not exactly cheap as compared to a PNP part, but the advantage is that you are not butt connecting or soldering wires or pulling old connector pins, and risking a hidden splice failure underneath a fuse box (or who knows where). Instead, the wires are terminating on the fuse box lugs where they are accessible.

 

[Steve83]

It's much easier to get a good, reliable butt crimp or solder splice than it is to crimp a new fuse terminal yourself. But an even-better method is to solder your new wire directly to the old crimped terminal. There are MANY connections in my truck done that way; at a fuse AND at other terminals throughout the wiring harness.

. .

This is from a truck I bought to part out:

. . . .

 

[bronco t]

I agree that soldering and heat shrinking is the best option, and in your example is the best option, but if given a choice it is better to avoid splices.

We all know that wires can't think, but I have a sneaking suspicion that splices are of higher intelligence because they know exactly when the wrong time to fail is! LOL

 

[mattt]

I had one of those 92-96 fuse & relay boxes that I dropped off with my EFI harness with intentions of using. It was lost or thrown away when my harness was done, so it's back to basic relay & fuse holders on my setup. I'd still like to incorporate one of these into my EB in the future, and move all inside truck fuses to this same fuse/relay box. There are more than enough slots to get everything in there. There are also a few spares which would be good for accessories, lights, etc.

Waterproof fuse/relay blocks are really good at keeping water INSIDE. That's why no automaker uses them. If you want durability, commonality, & functionality, get an OE fuse/relay box from the JY. Some are modular, allowing you to reconfigure their size, layout, & content. The one used in '92-96 F-series/Broncos is relatively versatile and VERY easy-to-find. It accepts ~6 APR blades (0.5-40A), ~20 APX blades (20-80A), and 5 Bosch/ISO/Tyco relays (20-30A). It has a simple input lug with a molded cover, and a lid that can be painted inside to indicate each fuse's size.

This shows its internal wiring:



...but that's easy to change as shown here:

 

[Dbteak]

I did the pick and pull route. I used an explorer fuse block. It is fairly easy to take apart and wire it the way you want it. Once you figure out how to take it apart you can go back to pick and pull and get any extra parts like the heavier gauge connectors and such. Get the bracket too.

 

[bronco t]

Waterproof fuse/relay blocks are really good at keeping water INSIDE. That's why no automaker uses them. If you want durability, commonality, & functionality, get an OE fuse/relay box from the JY. Some are modular, allowing you to reconfigure their size, layout, & content. The one used in '92-96 F-series/Broncos is relatively versatile and VERY easy-to-find. It accepts ~6 APR blades (0.5-40A), ~20 APX blades (20-80A), and 5 Bosch/ISO/Tyco relays (20-30A). It has a simple input lug with a molded cover, and a lid that can be painted inside to indicate each fuse's size.

This shows its internal wiring:



...but that's easy to change as shown here:

That's cool. Where can a guy find APX and APR blades? I searched the web but could not find them.

BTW. Sometimes you veteran CB' folk cease to amaze with the stuff you have holed up in your brains. Thank you for sharing it with us new comers

 

[brianstrange]

You can visit my build thread, it has a few pics of my Explorer fuse & relay panel that I made 3 years ago. At the time, I was leery of using the small relays, but have since learned that they are fine for lower amp service items. I wired 4 relays for EFI, and two for Hi/Lo beams. I honestly think that keeping EEC and fuel pump relays along the harness, leaving more space in my aux panel would have been a better plan. Either way, the Explorer under hood panel is a very good, and cheap option as long as you have electrical and soldering skills.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198491