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(Updated) Dana 20 woes SOLVED?

surfer-b

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Bronco Guru
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Sep 7, 2006
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I have heard of some people talking about the t-case popping out because of too much endplay in the main output shaft. I don't know if this is true, but when I install new bearings I usually end up with close to no end play. I get the least amount of endplay as possibly then remove the smallest shim, however if you do this just make sure you don't have too much preload on the bearings, I would say you will be OK with close to 10"pounds or less.
 

Viperwolf1

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Viperwolf, totally agree... I'm trying to eliminate causes so I'm up for anything. Just talked to a guy who's done several D20's and the problem is that none of the suggestions he had involved keeping it in the truck. It sounds like its got to come out again which is what I didn't want but I don't see a way around it at this point...

Front driveshaft is brand new, rear is in good shape and no vibrations or shaking prior to the first T-case removal. Shifter contacting floor is a possibility so I'll look.

Couple of other observations or things to note to the CB community. When I had the Tcase out I replaced the mount bushings and even added a snubber (which had never been there before). I replaced all the fasteners to the X-member and T-case mounts....

Lastly, before I pull it out, I'm going to drive it and let it happen again, then safely coast to the side of the road and get under the truck and see if I can figure out what position the shift rails are in. One thing I did notice was that I can now shift past the 2H position. Almost like a 2Lo but I'm not sure since the front hubs were not locked... Not sure if this is adding to the issue or just an unrelated item but I thought I'd share it.

Thanks, Brad

Interesting comment above. Did the pill get put back in between the rails? If so I suspect your shifter is very worn out.
 
OP
OP
77-302

77-302

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Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
315
Loc.
Canton, MI
Interesting comment above. Did the pill get put back in between the rails? If so I suspect your shifter is very worn out.

Far as I can tell the shifter is original.
I'm not sure I understand the "PILL" reference.
When I put the shifter linkage back on, I made sure it was in the same position it was in prior to removal.

I appreciate all the suggestions. I haven't had any time to mess with it yet but I will try to mimic a few scenarios either today or tomorrow and get some photo's posted so I can show everyone what's going on...

Stay tuned.... Brad
 
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Viperwolf1

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The pill is inside the tcase.

Here are some measurements to look for.
 

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OP
OP
77-302

77-302

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Messages
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Loc.
Canton, MI
Yes. With a J shift there's only one pill and it goes in the rear hole.

Got it... But I never took the rods out when I put the new high speed gear in. Just removed the input shaft and installed the new gear...

OK Let me know if this works... I put a video together tonight... And YES I should have had my phone sideways... but you'll get the idea... My first YouTube upload... Anyway I added subtitles so you guys can get what's happening. At least from the driver's seat...

I didn't take any measurements only because I realized after I got under the truck that you can't see the shift rails unless you drop the exhaust and front driveshaft...

Lastly, I only let the park pin drag like that for the video, normally I would just shut the truck off and then put it in park...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8U7IuYb7giA
 

Viperwolf1

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Ouch! FYI, it's possible to break the park pawl in the C4 like that that.

Something is going on. Maybe the input gear was in worse shape than your original or the springs or weaker or both. I really like the JBG adjustable spring kit.
 

gr8scott

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Jul 1, 2011
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1,854
Man I hated my j-shifter. Went twin stick and never looked back...
 
OP
OP
77-302

77-302

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Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
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Loc.
Canton, MI
Ouch! FYI, it's possible to break the park pawl in the C4 like that that.

Something is going on. Maybe the input gear was in worse shape than your original or the springs or weaker or both. I really like the JBG adjustable spring kit.

Yes I won't be putting it in park unless I shut it down...
The "new" input gear was in much better shape, there was only slight wear/rounding on the edges where the old was was pretty severe.

I thought about removing the shifter and seeing if it happens without it...(putting it in 2H and leaving it there)
One thing that I tried to show in the video was that even though its in "neutral" its still in the 2H detent...Its not slipping out from that perspective so perhaps I have a shift fork issue?
I'm just not sure there is anything else I can try other than to just pull out the T-case and do a full tear down...
 
OP
OP
77-302

77-302

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Messages
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Loc.
Canton, MI
Okay I pulled the t-case out tonight but before I did I had a buddy climb up in the cab and go through the transfer case gears and I took one more video. I was hoping that maybe all of my issues were from the shifter but other than some slop, it doesn't explain how I could get neutral in 2H. I'm just going to rebuild the Tcase now.

I'll post some pictures once I open it up.

http://youtu.be/fRCd1ITUNMA
 
OP
OP
77-302

77-302

Full Member
Joined
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Messages
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Loc.
Canton, MI
Hope I'm not boring anyone yet but I wanted to let everyone know I played around with my T-case some more tonight. I took the inspection cover off and found two root causes....
1) the rear shift fork is loose allowing the sliding gear to disengage
2) this is compounded by the tip of the J-shifter being worn
a) the worn shifter also allows for 2L for the front axle as I showed in the video, I didn't realize I was getting 2L in the front since my hubs weren't locked

I'm headed to JBG tomorrow for a rebuild kit and new shifter.
 

cs_88

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 28, 2005
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1,321
While you've got it out I would definitely twin stick that bad boy.
 

WheelHorse

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Nov 22, 2004
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2,492
I had a feeling the shift fork was loose.

I had also used loc-tite on my allens as well and my 3/8 drive ratchet LOL.
 
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