• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

WH disc break conversion help

Bucky66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
559
Putting on the disc brake rear kit from WH. The rotor will not seat all the way due to the lug stud shoulder. I can however place a 1/4” spacer over the lugthen put the rotor over that and seats perfect. Only problem now is lugs are to short. They measure 1 7/8” total length. Even with out the 1/4” spacer the lugs may be to shallow. Including pics. Has anyone else delt with this?

Thinking change lug studs to longer length to accommodate all my ideas.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3821.jpeg
    IMG_3821.jpeg
    139.4 KB · Views: 125
  • IMG_3837.jpeg
    IMG_3837.jpeg
    149.9 KB · Views: 98
  • IMG_3838.jpeg
    IMG_3838.jpeg
    156.6 KB · Views: 102
  • IMG_3841.jpeg
    IMG_3841.jpeg
    223.1 KB · Views: 112
  • IMG_3842.jpeg
    IMG_3842.jpeg
    217.8 KB · Views: 100
  • IMG_3840.jpeg
    IMG_3840.jpeg
    196.2 KB · Views: 79

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Drill the rotor holes to slightly larger than the stud shoulders or replace the studs with those that don't extend the shoulder that far. I don't like modified wear parts, so I'd replace the studs.
 

1969miller

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2022
Messages
364
Loc.
Elk Grove
Here are the specs for a stock stud knurl diameter and knurl length, you can use this to help you find a longer stud that fits like it should. Good luck!

1780085009094.png
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Although much vilified, Dorman has a decent catalog online for finding different wheel studs. It's not as good as it could be, but it's the best for that which I know of.
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
1,795
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
Call WH and see what they say.
I would change to studs with no shoulder protruding thru axle flange.

Stole this screen shot from the WH install video.

1780089122646.png
 
OP
OP
Bucky66

Bucky66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
559
Call WH and see what they say.
I would change to studs with no shoulder protruding thru axle flange.

Stole this screen shot from the WH install video.

View attachment 962580
I did call and they kinda said ok with what I was thinking but need longer studs. Might call back and see what they have on that flange. Looks like an aftermarket axle though.
 
OP
OP
Bucky66

Bucky66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
559
Went to parts store but they were 13$ each and would still have to use the spacers behind the rotors to clear the ahoulder
 

ksagis

Contributor
Aspiring Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 15, 2020
Messages
818
Loc.
Austin
I don't know if it's bad form to reuse studs, but a low cost, more work option is to press out your existing studs and turn down the part of the knurl that protrudes.

Easy work on a lathe.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Used wheel studs are kind of like used leaf spring u-bolts. IF you know their history and can PRESS them out and back in, then maybe. If you have to use a hammer to beat them out and their threads to pull them back in then definitely not.

69Miller's p/n is $1.11/each on Rock Auto.
 

ba123

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 29, 2022
Messages
2,757
Loc.
CA
Yeah, I'd say find different studs but might be simpler to get those holes enlarged if those studs work for you. But if they are short like you think they might be, it's a no-brainer: Get new studs!

Get longer studs with no shoulder or whatever you find and I guess you could grind that shoulder before install if you had to.
 

EPB72

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
1,209
Loc.
Pleasant Hill, CA
just changed out mine a couple weeks ago for the wheels I'm running , just wanted little more thread was ok but i did get 2 more threads so feel better now, , ..went from simular to what op pics show to dorman PT# 610-260 they come up as 77-86 f150 ,, the shoulder is shorter and barly protruded on axle flange, the thread lenght was about 2 threads longer and is equiped with a speed start tip ...personaly I wouldn't use that spacer between the axle flange and rotor
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,619
Hey bucky, sorry to hear you're having a time of it. With something that should just sort of "bolt-n-go" relatively speaking.
I don't remember seeing studs like yours on a Bronco before. But yours certainly looks like an original axle. Just looking at it's apparent age.
But all of the ones I've worked on had a shank that tapered and just barely protruded through the axle flange.
Nothing near as proud of the flange as yours. And I see what looks to be two different types as well? If so, then some of them seem to have already been replaced.
But they sure do look just like the image in 1969Miller's post, of stock replacement parts.

I agree with the others that mentioned forgetting the aluminum spacer. Wrong direction to take to the solution.

And while I generally agree that it's better to change the studs than to modify the rotor, because it'll mean you have to do that every time you get a new rotor (but how often is that really going to happen?), I would not even hesitate to drill out the holes in your current rotor so you can finish the project quickly and get it back on the road. Then keep looking for the correct studs at your convenience.
But if you have the time to spend on hunting down the parts, and it seems like there are some good candidates listed already, then it's the right way to go I think. Getting the studs that will accommodate the rotor.
If you can only find some that still stick out too far, I would at least get the ones that have the taper, rather than the hard shoulder. That way you might not have to open the holes as much. Or you can taper/bevel the side of the rotor that faces the flange, and get it to all play nice together that way.
Heck, even on non-Broncos, I've had to bevel holes in stock replacement rotors that were going on vehicles with all original hardware still!

Good luck.

Paul
 
OP
OP
Bucky66

Bucky66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
559
Thank you all. i think I will not use the spacer after hearing everyone out. gonna remeasure the thread length again without the spacer and see where I land.

DirkDonk, you are right. I drive this truck very infrequently and usually just around town. need to slap this back together to move on to changing out to new seats.

I update when Im done. in the meantime Im gonna look for the studs with shorter shoulder.

Thank all of you
 
OP
OP
Bucky66

Bucky66

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2010
Messages
559
I can find exactly what I need but only in a 3" stud. have any of you cut any down before? will the heat produced cause any weakness?
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,953
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Run open-ended lug nuts or long hex lug nuts?

How you cut them matters, but unless you do it with a chop saw you aren't likely to make them weaker. If you do use an abrasive chop saw the change in metallurgy will only be at the ends.
 

SLOWnEASY

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2022
Messages
519
Loc.
San Diego, Ca.
Personally I would drill the rotors and put it back together. In 40 years of driving and wrenching I have only ever bought two new rotors on one of my cars. They just don't wear out that fast.
 
Last edited:
Top