what should my alternator gauge read?

[Broncobowsher]

OK, where are the factory wiring diagrams?
I remember doing a complete rewire and having to do a loop between the main wiring and the battery through the amp meter to get it to work right.

 

[broncnaz]

It is looped in here's viperwolfs gallery page. http://classicbroncos.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/22055/size/big/cat//ppuser/19091

 

[Viperwolf1]

Here's a better diagram cause the other one hurts my neck.

It's not rocket surgery guys. If the accessories pull current between the alt output and the ammeter (all do except for voltage reg) you won't see a change in the ammeter reading when they're used.

If you have the accessories pulling current on the other side of the ammeter you will see the change when those accessories are used.

 

[Quick & Dirty]

Here's a simple one I scribbled up after dismantling a harness.

 

[fastcarkenny]

No more neck strain. I will try to figure out where my system is crossed up causing the amp meter change at all 3 points in the same way. Its got to be a crossed connection somewhere else in the systemin my case.

Thanks for your help!

 

[chuck]

Here's a simple one I scribbled up after dismantling a harness.

It's a nice drawing and a good way to connect things up but it's not what ford did. Assuming your junction is the starter sol. with the engine running you would not see the load going from the alt., only the load going to or from the battery. PS the two big wires that go inside is just a big loop from the sol. to the fues block through the meter and back. Your dia. can be done and is as good as it gets without a volt meter.

 

[Viperwolf1]

It's a nice drawing and a good way to connect things up but it's not what ford did. Assuming your junction is the starter sol. with the engine running you would not see the load going from the alt., only the load going to or from the battery. PS the two big wires that go inside is just a big loop from the sol. to the fues block through the meter and back. Your dia. can be done and is as good as it gets without a volt meter.

I disagree. It's exactly what Ford did.

 

[chuck]

I'll scan a drawing tomorrow. I was disapointed to find this. I have drawings for the 66-77 and only the 77 is diff. in this area.

 

[broncnaz]

No more neck strain. I will try to figure out where my system is crossed up causing the amp meter change at all 3 points in the same way. Its got to be a crossed connection somewhere else in the systemin my case.

Thanks for your help!

Are you saying your showing a 20 amp charge when the fans are turned on even with the engine off? If so your fix is easy. The wire that runs through the Ammeter guage loop needs to be unplugged and routed back through the guage loop in the other direction.
Now if its only showing a charge with the engine running and fans on it may just be that the fans require that much charge. Electric fans are known to require a lot of power thats one reason that the claims for electric fans gaining you HP is just not true as they cause the alternator to work harder and it usually takes more HP than before.

 

[surfer-b]

Wire them to the alternator output.

This is exactly what I told another member here to do, he wanted a place to provide power for the relays, I told him to hook them at the ALT. output and put in an inline fuse. I also posted that he should do the rewire like a lot of us have, taking the loop out and use a #2 or 4 gage wire from the ALT. to the starter solenoid, when this is done the loop is gone and the amp gage will not work. Stevey wonder posted I didn't know what I was talking about, that he was certified and everybody else didn't know what they are talking about. I new it would come up again, I was just waiting, I usually don't say anything until the opportunity arrives, well it has.

 

[chuck]

I picked a 73 wiring dia. but they are all about the same. If you would like another year let me know which year. Notice the bat(+) and the alt. (B+) are connected to the same terminal on the sol. along with the wire that splits into the 2 wires that go inside to the fuse block and amp meter.

 

[surfer-b]

If you look at the wiring dia. I think you will find that the Charge wire goes from the Alt. to the battery side of the solenoid. The load wires attach to the same place. That means that the charge to the battery is not monitored by the meter. The charge that feeds the load and the draw from the battery to the load will show up on the amp meter but not the charge to the battery.

The diagram I have, which is for a 74 and has been correct for everything elec on my 74, shows the BLK/YEL coming from the ALT, a junction which has 2 BLK/YEL's and a YEL. 1 BLK/YEL which ties into a BLK/ORNG feeds the light switch and fuse box. The other BLK/YEL goes through the AMP meter and turns into a BLK which goes the starter sol. The YEL goes to the back of the IGN switch.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I picked a 73 wiring dia. but they are all about the same. If you would like another year let me know which year. Notice the bat(+) and the alt. (B+) are connected to the same terminal on the sol. along with the wire that splits into the 2 wires that go inside to the fuse block and amp meter.

Sorry Chuck but you got short-changed on that diagram. It's overly simplified and doesn't even show the ammeter. The diagram I posted above is from Ford's '75 Truck Wiring Diagrams Manual and is consistant with every stock Bronco harness I've seen.

 

[surfer-b]

Chuck, the diagram I have is diff from what you just posted, I will try and scan it and post.

 

[surfer-b]

Here is the diagram I have, maybe you can read it.

 

[chuck]

O.K. here is my 74 dia. I marked beside the wires I am talking about. This is as much of the dia. as I could get in my scanner but you can see the loop wire (black/yellow) that splits into 2 wires that feed the EB load. My point is there is no meter between the battery and the alt. so you can not see charge to the battery.

 

[chuck]

You are right they are diff. Not sure why. Can you make your drawing sharper? What does it say at the top "F" series or LS. I couldn't chase the wires but the way it looks like it runs would be better.

 

[chuck]

I just looked at my ford shop manuals, only the 68-69 has the wiring dia. The 38 wire is the one that comes from the alt. (B+) The other 2 I posted are copies so I am not sure of the source but this one is from my book

 

[Viperwolf1]

You are right they are diff. Not sure why. Can you make your drawing sharper? What does it say at the top "F" series or LS. I couldn't chase the wires but the way it looks like it runs would be better.

Here is surfer's diagram cleaned up. The top says U models.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I just looked at my ford shop manuals, only the 68-69 has the wiring dia. The 38 wire is the one that comes from the alt. (B+) The other 2 I posted are copies so I am not sure of the source but this one is from my book

That diagram shows a 4 wire voltage regulator (indicator light not ammeter) so it isn't for a Bronco.