Which front sway bar? Duff Long arms...

[73stallion]

73stallion, what steering box is he running with sway bar? When I checked on doing the same it wouldn't work because, I run the stock box and it would hit the currie sway bar.

didn't matter in this case. he ran it BEHIND the axle, in the rear dip of the oil pan behind the drain plug and just in front of the trans bell housing. so it was pointing FORWARD.

 

[bigmuddy]

73 stallion, my bad I should have asked the question to old red, who posted the picture.

Ben

 

[Justafordguy]

Wish I had seen this post earlier 888. I just ordered the 147 for my 75 last Friday.




What is the problem with your fit? Specifics pleaseeeee?;D I just ordered the 147. I am planning on making my own end links out of grade 8 threaded rod because I have a 3.5" lift. Sorry to hijack Jesus888

The bar is just not shaped right, it's too wide at the front and hits the C bushings and doesn't really fit around the 44 carrier very well. The front mounting brackets are not very well built either. The end link/frame mount side works fine.

 

[ilovemaui]

I bought a set of Addco sway bars but couldn't get them on without major modifications. Managed to get the front on by building a special bracket, but the bar actually interfered with the caster. I finally pulled it off. I tried to install the rear without success. If the bronco had stock suspension I'm sure they would work fine. So, I have a full set if someone is interested. $120 plus shipping.

 

[jesus888]

My Duff long arms perform great on the road compared to the other set-ups I have run in the past....I am sure they could be stiffened up some, but I have the Duff 5.5" lift and can run 75 down the interstate with no problems, so I have to think your setup problems may be due to the springs or other suspension components your running.....

I'm jealous...

I have 3.5" Duff lift all around, new BC Broncos linkage, rebuilt box by West Texas offroad, new ball joint new steering shaft, and new steering wheel and column, 35" BFG All terrains... honestly this thing is either new or rebuilt EVERYWHERE but when it gets over 45 mph... it gets a little white-knuckled...

Was hoping just to make it behave a little better in general with the sway-bar... maybe it's not so bad... I guess some more miles will tell the tale...

 

[phred]

So do you have "death wooble" or does the truck just feel loosey goosey. If it is not "death wooble" I'm wondering if it is in the alignment. All the long armed trucks I have driven or ridden handle just fine on road.
What is the toe set, has the camber and caster been checked?

Just adding the sway bar won't do any good if the other stuff is out. Alsowhat shocks are you running?

You gotta get this thing running right so we can all see it!

 

[jesus888]

Well, not the death wobble... just wanders one way and when you correct, it wanders the other way, and so on... and at speed that gets kinda scary.

I got it aligned when it was in Alabama and they said they were limited with what they could do because we didn't have a dropped pitman arm.

I can imagine though that stuff is still out some... I'll chat with John over at Team 1 Automotive (where it is) and see if they can throw it on the alignment rack... and yes... I NEED to get it running right so I can get some miles on it... the folks over at Team 1 have really redone A LOT, full fuel system and all new wiring up front... CANT WAIT!!

 

[phred]

Correct castor will make things much better. I've got my toe and 1/8" in and camber 1/2 degree positive.

 

[bmc69]

I got it aligned when it was in Alabama and they said they were limited with what they could do because we didn't have a dropped pitman arm.!!

??. That has what to do with caster, camber or toe-in?? Nothing.

I've found that toe-in is important but caster the most important of all; I run 1/4" toe in and a full 6 degrees of caster..the latter having the most effect on creating a stable "tracking" behavior.

All that said, the ole "Hotchkiss Wander" is always with us as we drive the straight-axle beasts..if the road is not perfectly flat and has an accentuated crown or, worse and much more common, pronounced wheel track depressions, these trucks will wander.

 

[Justafordguy]

X2, sounds like you have a caster problem. Mine drove just like you describe even when it was at the factory alignment spec. I added more caster ( 7 degrees +) and it drives great now. Made a huge difference.

 

[BroncoWanted]

The bar is just not shaped right, it's too wide at the front and hits the C bushings and doesn't really fit around the 44 carrier very well. The front mounting brackets are not very well built either. The end link/frame mount side works fine.

That does not sound good for me. I just dropped 350 on front and rear addco bars. I guess I will see what happens and if it won't fit send'em back to Summitt.

 

[kurtboyd]

Here's what we did using the kit below and some DOM tubing. Had to do some mods but it's a bitchin' set up. Installed anti-sway bar on the rear too

http://store.tk1racing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=110-33

 

[bmc69]

Here's what we did using the kit below and some DOM tubing. Had to do some mods but it's a bitchin' set up. Installed anti-sway bar on the rear too

http://store.tk1racing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=110-33

Very slick! Me likey....

 

[TBS-POPS]

Get rid of the duff shocks with the long arms. they are to soft. put a stiffer shock or somthing like an adjustable rancho 9000 on it and your sway problems will dissapear. I run Cage arms and 9000's and all is good. no sway or loose feeling.

 

[bigmuddy]

I have dual cage shocks on the front with the cage long arms, 35's and the chevy TRO steering, 2.5 suspension, 2" body lift. I can run down the highway at 85 + without issue, but I know live in a hilly area with alot of twists and turns. So I would like to have a bit better handling in the body roll area, of course I could just slow down too

I may give the bar through the crossmember trick over the winter.

 

[bigmuddy]

Which front sway bar?

Kurtboyd, the link you posted is for the 33" universal kit, is that the one you used?

Thanks for posting this up, as I have been dragging my heels not wanting to peice something together.

 

[joshd1971bronco]

Well, just to add more to this thread, I think that the OP should definitely get his alignment specs checked and get them where they need to be. He may NOT have an issue, but he may HAVE.

I'd think you'd want to get the toe, castor, and camber set as close to optimal as possible before you go making major hardware changes, buying expensive parts, custom fitting things, etc.

You don't want to 'band-aid' an alignment issue with shocks or sway bars.

 

[hartbronco]

Okay ...... I went down this road too , just as many of us have . So as a short term fix i went and got a set of Rancho rs9000 and put them on , Well that was 14 years ago and I'm on a second set . Forget about the pain of putting a Sway-bar on and get a set of Rancho adjustable rs9000. It will save You time and $$$$ at the. Some would say that they arn't as Cooool as a Sway-bar but who cares they work .

 

[hartbronco]

Pictures are below...

looks like You need new shocks in the rear any way (they look too short).

 

[broncotime]

looks like You need new shocks in the rear any way (they look too short).

They look too long to me, there is no room to stuff the rear tires up without bottoming out the shock. A shock with a shorter body would allow more up travel.