Wiring Quandary

[DirtDonk]

Then the alternator is being excited by the key, but it doesn’t know what to do. The yellow wire tells it that the system needs are.
Follow the wire and find out why it’s not supplied 12 V.

Refresh my memory. Is this a factory harness with just the new alternator setup? Or a new harness?

What wires do you have connected at the starter relay? Should be at least the large black wire that feeds the fuse panel.
The yellow wire is spliced into that wire under the harness tape.

 

[DirtDonk]

OK, just read the first post. Thanks for the detail!
I see it’s a Painless harness. Check the fuse for an alternator.
Factory harness doesn’t have one, but I believe the painless harness is so equipped.

 

[Jdgephar]

Yellow (no number) in the painless harness could be the Horn 12v source or ACC #2. Since you are under the hood, I doubt it's either of these two.

No number Yellow to the voltage regulator "A" terminal should be hot at all times through a maxi fuse, connected to #916/972 black. This one would be in the engine section. Was it by chance removed from the connection to black since you didn't use a separate regulator?

I think post 103 explains the issue. #916 black should be connected to battery power through the maxi fuse. #915 Black/yellow should be taped off and not used, or connected to the "A" terminal on the alternator, as the 915 wire should be always hot, since it is spliced to #916.

Are you using the Ammeter in the gauge cluster? Are the black and black/yellow connected at that point?

 

[Swailsd]

Yellow (no number) in the painless harness could be the Horn 12v source or ACC #2. Since you are under the hood, I doubt it's either of these two.

No number Yellow to the voltage regulator "A" terminal should be hot at all times through a maxi fuse, connected to #916/972 black. This one would be in the engine section. Was it by chance removed from the connection to black since you didn't use a separate regulator?

I think post 103 explains the issue. #916 black should be connected to battery power through the maxi fuse. #915 Black/yellow should be taped off and not used, or connected to the "A" terminal on the alternator, as the 915 wire should be always hot, since it is spliced to #916.

Are you using the Ammeter in the gauge cluster? Are the black and black/yellow connected at that point?

•I cut the voltage regulator plug off since I’m using a 4g
•I had the solid black 916 (starter solenoid b+) connected through a midi fuse then to the battery side of starter relay and had no power anywhere
•then I connected the black/yellow 915 (alternate b+) through the midi fuse and everything had power and works fine except the alternator is not charging
•Í capped off the solid black 916 (starter solenoid b+) and tucked it away for future use

 

[Jdgephar]

•I cut the voltage regulator plug off since I’m using a 4g
•I had the solid black 916 (starter solenoid b+) connected through a midi fuse then to the battery side of starter relay and had no power anywhere
•then I connected the black/yellow 915 (alternate b+) through the midi fuse and everything had power and works fine except the alternator is not charging
•Í capped off the solid black 916 (starter solenoid b+) and tucked it away for future use

My theory on what is happening is that the black and black/yellow are not connected together behind the gauge cluster in the dash where the ammeter is (or was if you're not using it). Those two wires still need to be connected at that point. If they are not, that's why everything had no power until you disconnected the solid black and connected the black/yellow to the maxi fuse. Since you've moved the black/yellow to the constant power point, everything works, except now you don't have 12V on the solid black wire, which is also connected to the "no number" yellow wire.

There's nothing wrong with having it this way. It just won't match the Painless instructions, and you'll need to find a different "always on" 12V source to run to the alternator "A" terminal. That, or just connect the black and black/yellow together behind the gauges in the dash.

 

[Swailsd]

Also I’m running Dakota digital gauge cluster

 

[Swailsd]

My theory on what is happening is that the black and black/yellow are not connected together behind the gauge cluster in the dash where the ammeter is (or was if you're not using it). Those two wires still need to be connected at that point. If they are not, that's why everything had no power until you disconnected the solid black and connected the black/yellow to the maxi fuse. Since you've moved the black/yellow to the constant power point, everything works, except now you don't have 12V on the solid black wire, which is also connected to the "no number" yellow wire.

There's nothing wrong with having it this way. It just won't match the Painless instructions, and you'll need to find a different "always on" 12V source to run to the alternator "A" terminal. That, or just connect the black and black/yellow together behind the gauges in the dash.

You’re spot on, the solid black 972 (ammeter output) and the 972 black/yellow (ammeter input) are not connected, I have them capped off and zip tied together, but not connected

 

[Jdgephar]

I found this picture. The colors match the Painless wire colors for the 12V source and alternator wires. The item labeled "bullet connector" is what I think is not connected behind the dash. Since you have the 4G alternator, you are not using the standard "Alternator connector" in this picture. Instead, you have that as your power source for 12V to everything (connected at the Maxi fuse, which is connected to the starter relay) - Fuse box, ignition switch, etc. But then the supply stops at the bullet connector.

Originally, you had the solid black wire as your 12V power source (the connection to the Maxi fuse at the starter relay). It would have gone only to the bullet connector, and since it's not connected, then no power to the fuse box and ignition switch, making it look like everything is "dead".

That's why I think that connection behind the dash has not been made between the black and black/yellow.

 

[Jdgephar]

Oops, I was on a phone call and got delayed in my reply. I didn't see that you already found the issue. Mystery solved!

 

[Jdgephar]

You’re spot on, the solid black 972 (ammeter output) and the 972 black/yellow (ammeter input) are not connected, I have them capped off and zip tied together, but not connected

Cool. If you're wiring is already all neat and tidy under the hood, I would just connect those together and call it a day.

 

[Swailsd]

Cool. If you're wiring is already all neat and tidy under the hood, I would just connect those together and call it a day.

That’s my plan. Thank you very much for the help

 

[Swailsd]

That’s my plan. Thank you very much for the help

Scratch that thought my ocd won’t let me do it. I’ll tackle that tomorrow shouldn’t be to bad even though everything is tidy the wires are pretty assessable

 

[Jdgephar]

Scratch that thought my ocd won’t let me do it. I’ll tackle that tomorrow shouldn’t be to bad even though everything is tidy the wires are pretty assessable

Just tell your OCD over and over "it's the same wire, it's the same wire, it's the same wire" LOL

 

[Swailsd]

Just tell your OCD over and over "it's the same wire, it's the same wire, it's the same wire" LOL

 

[Swailsd]

Got it all wired up correctly over the weekend and now the alternator is charging thanks guys for all the help Í really appreciate it

 

[73azbronco]

So does all your alternator power go through that bullet connector behind the dash, the ammeter/charge sense wire?

 

[Swailsd]

So does all your alternator power go through that bullet connector behind the dash, the ammeter/charge sense wire?

Your 2 big black wires behind the dash labeled ammeter, one black/yellow the other solid black (cant remember the numbers) have to be connected if your not using an ammeter or u will not get a constant 12v from your yellow no number (sensing wire) going to the alternator. This is with a painless harness