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Y to T conversion Issues

abrdn419

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2003
Messages
70
I just did a Wildhorses y to t conversion on my 77 Bronco. I have 3.5 JD lift and track bar drop bracket. I did the install around 20 years ago or so. Per Wildhorses recommendation i also added a drop pitman arm. When I got it all back together and back on the ground. I see the track bar and draglink don't look right. Any ideas? I am thinking remove the track bar drop bracket and going with an adjustable track bar.

Thanks

IMG_0405.jpeg
IMG_0404.jpeg
 

Speedrdr

Contributor
Not so wise OLD owl
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
1,523
Loc.
Paris, MS
Following as I’ve got the WH Y to T and drop pitman as well. Also have a 3 1/2” lift.

Randy
 

Madgyver

Contributor
Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,859
I also did the 3-way adjustable steering links set and didn't like it so I went the RuffStuff 1 ton tie-rod end route.
Lose the tracbar drop on the frame and get an adjustable tracbar. go tie-rod over and it will make your steering links close to parallel. stock pitman arm.


I used this kit.


r1305_y_link_steering_using_gm_1_ton_tre_main.jpg
 
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Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
866
Loc.
Maple Valley
With 3.5" of lift, i'd recommend ditching the drop bracket and going with a track bar relocation bracket on the axle. You may want to consider an adjustable track bar. Then you'll also need to flip OTK with your steering set up. Since you just bought this T conversion, you can look into tapered knuckle bushings like below. There are several vendors that sell these and some aren't the same... definitely do your homework on what will work best for your situation.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1468.html

Keep in mind you may need to do further mods to your knuckles (drilling them out) to fit these.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,771
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Looks like alot of threads showing on the lower tie-rod. Are you that kit isn't for the earlier years? The attatch points on the knuckles are wider on the 76-77.
 
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abrdn419

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2003
Messages
70
Looks like alot of threads showing on the lower tie-rod. Are you that kit isn't for the earlier years? The attatch points on the knuckles are wider on the 76-77.
I have yet to dial in the alignment and noticed that as well last night.
 
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abrdn419

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2003
Messages
70
Thanks for the replies I think I got a plan to get it corrected.
 

chrlsful

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
1,427
Remember:
’76/7 rigs here.
Shimmy:
I’ve heard of that. Just drill out kuck end (I can do from lie in dirt/bottom up) and drop the RS bushing in top with my ’T' tie rod in there? It needs the cotter on
the nut to stay tho... Use adj. track bar And that’s it? No drop brackets or other specalties? Or is “...track bar relocation bracket...” also needed. Thats a new 1 on me... I been holdin onto my ’70 T linkage just for this TRO.
 
Last edited:

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,124
The '77 already has a dropped upper track bar mounting position, so you don't need or want the drop bracket. Bump steer will be so much better when you ditch that thing if it's anything like mine. You're aiming for some semblance of parallel.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,771
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Remember:
’76/7 rigs here.
Shimmy:
I’ve heard of that. Just drill out kuck end (I can do from lie in dirt/bottom up) and drop the RS bushing in top with my ’T' tie rod in there? It needs the cotter on
the nut to stay tho... Use adj. track bar And that’s it? No drop brackets or other specalties? Or is “...track bar relocation bracket...” also needed. Thats a new 1 on me... I been holdin onto my ’70 T linkage just for this TRO.
1970 linkage isn't wide enough for 76-77 knuckles.
 

Shimmy

Contributor
1977 Bronco
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
866
Loc.
Maple Valley
Remember:
’76/7 rigs here.
Shimmy:
I’ve heard of that. Just drill out kuck end (I can do from lie in dirt/bottom up) and drop the RS bushing in top with my ’T' tie rod in there? It needs the cotter on
the nut to stay tho... Use adj. track bar And that’s it? No drop brackets or other specalties? Or is “...track bar relocation bracket...” also needed. Thats a new 1 on me... I been holdin onto my ’70 T linkage just for this TRO.

The Wildhorses Y-T conversion is made specifically for the 76/77. It is longer. Ditch the TB drop bracket on the frame side. That is not an optimal setup. I suppose you can install the axle TB relocation bracket and then decide if you "need" an adjustable TB. I'd recommend an adjustable TB if you want your axle to be centered properly 100%.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
First, thanks for choosing the WH product!
I have a couple of suggestions for starters.
I prefer keeping the angles lower, so I am more on board with either flipping the tie rod to the top or using a riser bar that gives more adjustability for the truck bar.
I don’t like losing the nice angle that you’re already achieving with the existing drop track bar bracket. So if we could end up keeping that, so much the better for now.
But if it ends up working in the end, weld it completely to the frame bracket. Don’t rely on the bolts.

First thing I would do, though, would be to loosen all the adjuster clamps and twist the tie rod “up” so that the grease fitting on the lower drag link and points up at the radiator. Roughly 60° from horizontal.
This does two things. It gives you a more natural steering movement between the two bars, but more importantly, for this discussion, slightly raises the angle of the drag link.
Not enough to make things parallel I don’t think, but better.

If the track bracket had a little more flat surface, you could simply drill a new hole, slightly higher up, and raise the upper end to better match the angle of the draglink. But that goes against my first feeling of keeping the angles as low as possible.

I like the TRO aspect, but I’m concerned that it would actually go too high and put the drag link in the opposite misalignment from where it is now.
Of course, you could take the tie rods out of the knuckles, and flip it over by way of a mock up, and eyeball things to see how reversing the tie rod, and putting it above the knuckle/steering arms would line things up.
Easy enough to do.

And as a final suggestion, as cool as it looks in metal, paint that sucker!
Unless I’m seeing it wrong on my phone, it looks like it’s still in bare metal. It is neither stainless or plated. It’s just regular old steel, or chrome-moly and will rust in short order sitting under a vehicle.

That’s about it for now. Definitely sit under there doing some mock up so you can see what does what.
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
1,096
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
If you go TRO , the tie rod may hit the trackbar bolt at full turn, requiring riser bracket on axle housing.
Don't ask how I know. . .
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,743
Pretty much guaranteed that changes to one thing, necessitates changes in another.
It just never seems to end!
 
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