yeah or neah on another efi build thread

[DanWheeler]

that ranger fitting how could i work it from the cable. does that vacumm canister come off so i can install a cable clamp setup on it for the manual cable. if so that might be my next option. it looks as though it does with 2 screws.

I think the vacuum canister is riveted on.. you could probably saw it off but I dont think its necessary. If you dont apply vacuum to the canister it wont have any effect then you can just attach your control wire to the lever on the valve. It might even fit snug right on there since the lever looks like it is flared to hold the arm from the vacuum canister in place.

I have one of these valves on my Trans Am and I just removed my heater control cable so if you want, i can try to put them together and let you know if it works.

 

[marty]

dan i am just concerned about being able to secure the outer shield of the heater cable. i believe like you said the cable will go right on the arm with no problems. if i can take out the 2 rivits or screws i believe i can either cut off the cable bracketoff the old valve and make it work on the ranger valve.

 

[marty]

well i must have had another brain fart because the heat problem is not a problem at all. i have heat. now i just need to get someone to put a exhaust system in for me.

 

[AussieBronco]

What would be the best way to get that vacuum canister to open via vacuum. Is there a cheap solenoid out there that would apply vacuum when required?

 

[marty]

ok so i know i am bringing back up a old post but i gigured i would let others know how my build went. i think overall it went pretty easy. don't let the efi thing get you all crazy and scared that the avergae person cannot install this. the big thing i felt which helped me was trying to plan ahead and and make a list of everything you can think of and have ready so you don't have a good amount of down time. it is better to keep working and knock each thing out than to have to come back and try and figure out where you left off.

my truck is running good except when it is ice cold. it likes to stall and if you try and drive off it pops through the intake a bit. i have yet to figure this one out. i have gone through and checked the codes but nothing there that is showing a problem. kinda has me baffled. all ECT, ACT, TPS sensors are new and it runs perfect once it warms up, even with the B-CAM that everyone says is a surging mess. i even tried changing out the idle bypass motor but not the entire valve assy. than might be next to see if there is a sticky valve. but i kinda think it wouldn't idle well after it warms up if this was giving me a problem. i also should not rule out maybe a timing issue possible in the distributor sensor possible. i think i read somewhere that the sensor inside could give idle issues but i highly doubt it. i thought also i read somewhere that people have drilled a small hole in the throttle plate to help idle but i don't know about if this helps cold starts but i doubt it. i also will like to try and pull off the fuel pressure regulator hose and plug off the hose to see if giving it full fuel pressure helps this issue. has anyone ran into this issue. i am running a A9L ecm with stock mustang injection including the stock t-body.

 

[66fora69er]

ok so i know i am bringing back up a old post but i gigured i would let others know how my build went. i think overall it went pretty easy. don't let the efi thing get you all crazy and scared that the avergae person cannot install this. the big thing i felt which helped me was trying to plan ahead and and make a list of everything you can think of and have ready so you don't have a good amount of down time. it is better to keep working and knock each thing out than to have to come back and try and figure out where you left off.

my truck is running good except when it is ice cold. it likes to stall and if you try and drive off it pops through the intake a bit. i have yet to figure this one out. i have gone through and checked the codes but nothing there that is showing a problem. kinda has me baffled. all ECT, ACT, TPS sensors are new and it runs perfect once it warms up, even with the B-CAM that everyone says is a surging mess. i even tried changing out the idle bypass motor but not the entire valve assy. than might be next to see if there is a sticky valve. but i kinda think it wouldn't idle well after it warms up if this was giving me a problem. i also should not rule out maybe a timing issue possible in the distributor sensor possible. i think i read somewhere that the sensor inside could give idle issues but i highly doubt it. i thought also i read somewhere that people have drilled a small hole in the throttle plate to help idle but i don't know about if this helps cold starts but i doubt it. i also will like to try and pull off the fuel pressure regulator hose and plug off the hose to see if giving it full fuel pressure helps this issue. has anyone ran into this issue. i am running a A9L ecm with stock mustang injection including the stock t-body.

Marty, I have the exact setup you do. B cam, EFI etc. I was having issues and was changing sensors left and right. nothing fixed it...until I got the timing right. When you stabbed the dizzy did you follow the instructions from sbftech.com or something similar. As soon as I got the dizzy and timing right the B cam was awesome. lopey? Yes. surging? no. you shouldnt be having a cold start issue with the efi. just my opnion

 

[66fora69er]

This is from SBFtech.com. Good luck

 

[Ratch]

Marty, I have the exact setup you do. B cam, EFI etc. I was having issues and was changing sensors left and right. nothing fixed it...until I got the timing right. When you stabbed the dizzy did you follow the instructions from sbftech.com or something similar. As soon as I got the dizzy and timing right the B cam was awesome. lopey? Yes. surging? no. you shouldnt be having a cold start issue with the efi. just my opnion

Also be sure to pull the spout connector when you set the base timing with your timing light.

 

[Ratch]

Marty, I have the exact setup you do. B cam, EFI etc. I was having issues and was changing sensors left and right. nothing fixed it...until I got the timing right. When you stabbed the dizzy did you follow the instructions from sbftech.com or something similar. As soon as I got the dizzy and timing right the B cam was awesome. lopey? Yes. surging? no. you shouldnt be having a cold start issue with the efi. just my opnion

Also be sure to pull the spout connector when you set the base timing with your timing light.
Good thread by the way, and as stated earlier, nice looking engine you got there. Nice clean install also. Looks good all around.

 

[marty]

Marty, I have the exact setup you do. B cam, EFI etc. I was having issues and was changing sensors left and right. nothing fixed it...until I got the timing right. When you stabbed the dizzy did you follow the instructions from sbftech.com or something similar. As soon as I got the dizzy and timing right the B cam was awesome. lopey? Yes. surging? no. you shouldnt be having a cold start issue with the efi. just my opnion

if my timing is on is there still some way the distributor is in correct. i have put tons of G.M. distributors in and the only one that is different is the style that there is no need to set timing due to the fact the e.c.m. controls it if the distributor was dropped in and indexed correctly. ford's are all new to me when it comes to certain things and they have there ways and G.M. has theirs. enlighten me a bit more on this dropping in the distributor proceedure. i just set the thing up on #1 tdc dropped in the distributor close to #1 on the cap pulled the spout and set timing. like i have done for years with G.M.. was this the wrong procedure?

 

[Viperwolf1]

if my timing is on is there still some way the distributor is in correct. i have put tons of G.M. distributors in and the only one that is different is the style that there is no need to set timing due to the fact the e.c.m. controls it if the distributor was dropped in and indexed correctly. ford's are all new to me when it comes to certain things and they have there ways and G.M. has theirs. enlighten me a bit more on this dropping in the distributor proceedure. i just set the thing up on #1 tdc dropped in the distributor close to #1 on the cap pulled the spout and set timing. like i have done for years with G.M.. was this the wrong procedure?

As long as #1 wire is indexed to #1 on the cap you're ok. The stator inside the EFI distributor also determines the firing timing for the injectors. If the distributor is not setup correctly the injector timing could be way off.

 

[marty]

i used #1 marked right on the cap as my #1 cylinder and dropped the dizzy in very close if not on the money to the rotor's position. is there still something i am missing here. i doubt it. it's not rocket science correct. wouldn't things be way the f--k off and not running correctly. my timing is on and if the injectors where not firing correctly wouldn't i know that from the way it runs at speed. my issue is just that it surges and stalls only when it is cold and will backfire under a load if i try and drive it away right upon start up through the intake. after a few minutes of warm up it goes away and runs like a champ. i hate the fact that i cannot just hit the key in the morning and it does not just sit and idle like normal or be able to driveaway. this is one of the reasons i hated the crappy 2brl carb i had on the original package.

 

[Viperwolf1]

i used #1 marked right on the cap as my #1 cylinder and dropped the dizzy in very close if not on the money to the rotor's position. is there still something i am missing here. i doubt it. it's not rocket science correct. wouldn't things be way the f--k off and not running correctly. my timing is on and if the injectors where not firing correctly wouldn't i know that from the way it runs at speed. my issue is just that it surges and stalls only when it is cold and will backfire under a load if i try and drive it away right upon start up through the intake. after a few minutes of warm up it goes away and runs like a champ. i hate the fact that i cannot just hit the key in the morning and it does not just sit and idle like normal or be able to driveaway. this is one of the reasons i hated the crappy 2brl carb i had on the original package.

Your distributor timing is good.

I had some leaks at the bottom of my intake gaskets that were giving me the same symptoms you have. Once warmed up for a minute it sealed up and ran fine.

 

[66fora69er]

At speed the stator is spinning so fast that it makes it hard to tell. the stator position when the distributor is put in place is more important than I gave credit. Vipor may be onto something with the gaskets and metal expanding after warming up and sealing a vac leak. I re-sealed my upper and lower intake twice looking for a vac leak...before I got my timing right. good ideas. you'll get it

 

[marty]

Your distributor timing is good.

I had some leaks at the bottom of my intake gaskets that were giving me the same symptoms you have. Once warmed up for a minute it sealed up and ran fine.

well i didn't use gaskets in the front and back i always use loctite 5900 sealer. it is what G.M. uses and what i use at work being i am a marine mechanic. but being i am taking the upper plenum off this week to check and re-adjust if needed the valvetrain i will re-torque the intake to be sure.

 

[66fora69er]

well i didn't use gaskets in the front and back i always use loctite 5900 sealer. it is what G.M. uses and what i use at work being i am a marine mechanic. but being i am taking the upper plenum off this week to check and re-adjust if needed the valvetrain i will re-torque the intake to be sure.

I didnt use gaskets front or back either, just RTV

 

[Viperwolf1]

well i didn't use gaskets in the front and back i always use loctite 5900 sealer. it is what G.M. uses and what i use at work being i am a marine mechanic. but being i am taking the upper plenum off this week to check and re-adjust if needed the valvetrain i will re-torque the intake to be sure.

RTV is fine on the ends.

In that pic above the gasket was leaking at the bottom of intake ports 5, 6 and 7. It pulled in oil from the valley. Just keep in mind that vac leaks don't always occur on the outside of engines.

 

[marty]

this is true. i will re-torque.