Pertronix Ford Performance Dual Point Distributor

[f2502011]

Some of the things you describe could easily be fuel related.
A lean condition from either a vacuum leak, or lean overall jetting, or not enough accelerator pump squirt.

I was told I may have to rejet it to use a Pertronix, but I'm not sure what's in it currently or what way to go.

Idles and cranks great, takes fuel well except light throttle can hear and feel a stumble/miss. I may need to go back to points. Not sure what to set them at if I do I'll have to research specs unless someone here knows. Not familiar with dual points.

Shouldn't be any vacuum leaks as nothing has changed in regards to that. Really only one thing has been changed points to pertronix. Accelerator pump possibly due to fuel with ethanol in it, but doubtful.

What about the vacuum cleaner noise? Wasn't there before this. Sounds like it's coming from the distributor itself or possibly carb area. Plug wires are suppression type.

 

[DirtDonk]

Never heard of re-jetting for a change to a Pertronix.
But even if it was necessary, I don’t think going back to points is the proper way to deal with a jetting problem. Better to keep what’s probably the better ignition, and just rejet the carburetor.
One way to find out what’s in there now…

But checking the accelerator pump would be my first step I think. Right after the other first step of actually checking for vacuum leaks.
All the parts don’t have to be mismatched for a vacuum leak to start. They sometimes just start.

And ultimately, we still have what are known as “coincidental failures” so anything can happen at any time whether it’s related to the work being done or not.

And maybe go back to a higher initial ignition advance? Since you don’t have a vacuum advance to help other light load, maybe it can benefit from a little tweak in the timing.
Again…
I know you’ve been there, done that already. But sometimes we have to go back a square in one aspect to fiddle with another.
But still check for vacuum leaks just in case.

 

[f2502011]

Never heard of re-jetting for a change to a Pertronix.
But even if it was necessary, I don’t think going back to points is the proper way to deal with a jetting problem. Better to keep what’s probably the better ignition, and just rejet the carburetor.
One way to find out what’s in there now…

But checking the accelerator pump would be my first step I think. Right after the other first step of actually checking for vacuum leaks.
All the parts don’t have to be mismatched for a vacuum leak to start. They sometimes just start.

And ultimately, we still have what are known as “coincidental failures” so anything can happen at any time whether it’s related to the work being done or not.

And maybe go back to a higher initial ignition advance? Since you don’t have a vacuum advance to help other light load, maybe it can benefit from a little tweak in the timing.
Again…
I know you’ve been there, done that already. But sometimes we have to go back a square in one aspect to fiddle with another.
But still check for vacuum leaks just in case.

I can see the accelerator pump leaks around the outside and drips some fuel on top of the intake, not much but definitely an issue. I just don't get the vacuum cleaner noise. Sounds electronic in nature not like an air/vacuum leak. Really weird.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is it loud enough to hear on a video maybe? Could something be rubbing inside the distributor? How is the gap set between the magnetic pickup/stator and the reluctor wheel?
Normally there is a little plastic feeler gauge (.030" I think?) included for use with the standard distributors. Not sure what they use for this specialty unit.

Since the only thing you changed was the insides of the distributor and that's only a physical thing, seems like something would be touching. Unless there is a needed ground wire to connect or the module can make a noise? Doubt that, and never heard of it happening, and since you have a running engine then the distributor and module are in fact grounded. So that seems even less likely.

But we love a good mystery!

Paul

 

[f2502011]

Is it loud enough to hear on a video maybe? Could something be rubbing inside the distributor? How is the gap set between the magnetic pickup/stator and the reluctor wheel?
Normally there is a little plastic feeler gauge (.030" I think?) included for use with the standard distributors. Not sure what they use for this specialty unit.

Since the only thing you changed was the insides of the distributor and that's only a physical thing, seems like something would be touching. Unless there is a needed ground wire to connect or the module can make a noise? Doubt that, and never heard of it happening, and since you have a running engine then the distributor and module are in fact grounded. So that seems even less likely.

But we love a good mystery!

Paul

Yes I will try to get a video. This particular unit doesn't use the gapper it fits directly where the condenser was and has a couple of raised places on the bottom so it sits directly where it needs to. Doesn't have a ground strap and there's way less in the way to rub then there was with the points.

 

[sprdv1]

Never heard of re-jetting for a change to a Pertronix.
B

get up on google dude lol

 

[sprdv1]

Yes I will try to get a video. This particular unit doesn't use the gapper it fits directly where the condenser was and has a couple of raised places on the bottom so it sits directly where it needs to. Doesn't have a ground strap and there's way less in the way to rub then there was with the points.

one little step at a time right.. U got this..

 

[sprdv1]

Some of the things you describe could easily be fuel related.
A lean condition from either a vacuum leak, or lean overall jetting, or not enough accelerator pump squirt.

surely you gest.. lol

 

[sprdv1]

Some of the things you describe could easily be fuel related.
A lean condition from either a vacuum leak, or lean overall jetting, or not enough accelerator pump squirt.

Fuel issues love to leave us guessing too

 

[f2502011]

Was leaking around the front bowl. Tightened screws to 25 in/lb seems to have stopped. Probably didn’t need to replace the pump diaphragm but did anyway. Have it timed to 12 initial seems to run well. Here’s a video of the noise.

New video by Homeowner A

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[DirtDonk]

Sure is pretty under that hood!
I couldn’t really hear anything unusual on my phone speaker so I’ll check it again on the computer. Does seem to run pretty good at least at idle.
Did you say it feel good driving? Or have you driven it much yet?

 

[f2502011]

Sure is pretty under that hood!
I couldn’t really hear anything unusual on my phone speaker so I’ll check it again on the computer. Does seem to run pretty good at least at idle.
Did you say it feel good driving? Or have you driven it much yet?

Can hear the vacuum cleaner noise for about the first 14 seconds. Then I blip the throttle and it goes away. I haven’t had the chance to drive it since I replaced parts and retimed it.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ll check it again. But it sounds like a carburetor/vacuum noise from your description.
Something in the distributor would not change based on idle speed or carburetor throttle position I’m thinking. But a whistling of air going past the throttle blades is very common.
It’s possible that a stronger spark has created a more robust combustion process, thereby creating more vacuum.
Kind of a long shot stretch shot in the dark, but potentially plausible.

 

[sprdv1]

Was leaking around the front bowl. Tightened screws to 25 in/lb seems to have stopped. Probably didn’t need to replace the pump diaphragm but did anyway. Have it timed to 12 initial seems to run well. Here’s a video of the noise.

http://[URL]https://photos.app.goo.gl/1rTfgysoUdjBhu1R9

[/URL]

never fails..

 

[ntsqd]

I did not read all of the way thru this, so no idea if this has been already said, but I would convert to Dura-Spark, all of it. Distributor, module, & wiring. Someone mentioned using a E-core coil from a later model on one of their vehicles, do that too.

If that is too modern looking for you then scour CL, HAMB, swap meets etc. for an old school breakerless conversion box. "Delta Mark Ten B" is one brand name. Does not matter if it works or not, you'll be gutting the electronics part of it and using an HEI module inside the period housing. Then connect a D-S II distributor to the HEI module. If you tack weld the advance plate inside the distributor to the base plate then you can remove the vacuum advance can and plug the hole with some J-B Weld putty. With the dist installed so that the plug is facing to the rear no one will likely ever know what you did and it will look very period correct. You will probably want to put an advance kit in the distributor.

If it sounds like I've done this sort of thing, I have. Below is the similar conversion that I made on the avatar buggy. Inside that Mark Ten B box is the ignitor from the donor Toyota that I used to convert the buggy's engine to electronic ignition.

I wasn't too concerned with looking period correct on the electronic conversion of my old '65 Valiant, I just put the HEI module on a piece of aluminum.

Been running strong like that ever since I got the proper thermal grease between the module and the aluminum bracket. Current owner just sent me some pics of the car on a Hot Rod Power Tour, so now that car has been driven coast to coast without any problems.

 

[1970 Palmer]

Lots of really great suggestions on how to diagnose this problem.

But let's understand, this is now on page three, and we have not heard of any follow up to the suggestions that were given back on page one.

 

[f2502011]

Lots of really great suggestions on how to diagnose this problem.

But let's understand, this is now on page three, and we have not heard of any follow up to the suggestions that were given back on page one.

There’s continual updates throughout the entire thread.