Gas & Oil

[FordFarmer]

Gas. Do you guys run premium? Also, check out the fuel filter I pulled out today. It was brand new when I bought the truck 6 weeks ago. I know the truck sat in storage a lot between Sunday drives and that the tank is original. 43 years of crap cut loose by ethanol?

Oil. What do you guys like? Normal, synthetic or a blend? Original 302, had heads rebuilt with hardened seats over 10 years ago. Bottom end has never been touched. 70k original miles.

 

[hyghlndr]

Dissolved rubber hoses or tank garbage. May want to drop tank and clean & install new hoses.

 

[broncnaz]

Run as low a grade of gas as your truck will take without the engine pinging. In most cases premium fuel is not needed and a waste of money. X2 on cleaning the gas tank or just replace your filters more often. You be suprised at what comes out of the gas pumps even tho they also have filters.

As for oil Id just run standard oil in a older carbed engine you'll probably need to run 10W-30 or 10W-40 unless the engine is recently rebuild then you could run lighter stuff or if the engine has a lot of miles you may need to run heavier stuff. A lot of people also run oils like rottela 15W-40 as it has more zinc in it which helps the older flat tappet cam engines last a little longer.
Syntethic oils are kind of a waste in a carbed engine as the oil will still need tobe change when it hits about 3000 miles so the extra cost of synthetic is just not worth it IMO.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Gas, lowest octane without detonation. Original 302, 87 octane will be just fine.
Oil, yes keep some in there. What flavor? I like vanilla. Sometimes mint chip.
What weight? Thinnest without loosing excessive pressure when fully warmed up. Probably ~5W30 if the bottom end of the engine is in good shape.

 

[Firedog67]

Looks like what other members stated but.....

If it is oil, I have seen a mechanical fuel pump that was cracked enough to let engine oil enter the diaphram.
Figured I would throw that out there.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That first photo looks like something is splattered on the outside of the filter. Not the inside.

 

[FordFarmer]

Looks like what other members stated but.....

If it is oil, I have seen a mechanical fuel pump that was cracked enough to let engine oil enter the diaphram.
Figured I would throw that out there.

I should have mentioned that this filter is installed just a few inches before the mechanical pump. After seeing this I'm glad the P.O. saw fit to put it there!

That first photo looks like something is splattered on the outside of the filter. Not the inside.

Your right, there's a bit of road splatter on the outside. That's why I took three pictures, to hopefully show the sludge from a few different angles. Believe me, it's jam packed full.

I've been trouble shooting another issue and had recently jetted down a step in the carb. Thought I'd gone too lean as it felt as though I'd lost some power. With a fresh filter she's pulling strong again.....who'd a thunk it?

 

[BRONCROB]

Goggle PUREGAS.ORG and find some nonethanol gas close by.Broncos are used to regular gas and Motorcraft oil.

 

[jperry1290]

I ran full synthetic in my rig after owning it for a few months. My engine, specifically the rear main, started leaking pretty bad after syn oil was added. Im guessing it washed off the deposits

 

[DirtDonk]

I like synthetics too, but I'm with those that can recommend regular dino oil for an old EB.
I also like thinner oils, even though I ran 20w/50 Castrol GTX for many many years in mine.

A friend also had an experience recently with low oil pressure though. He was running some 10w/30 or something like that, and when warm his pressure was quite low for a good running engine. Put in 20w/50 and it came right back up and stayed there.
Probably just looser tolerances from old age, like the others were saying.

If it's really got 70k miles on it, and the PO's were very careful about maintenance and getting the old engine fully warmed up during the drives it did take, then you could likely get away with just about any type of oil you want.
If it was run those 70k and then put up in a barn for 30 years, or run all of them at 5 mile increments, you might have more to deal with. But give whatever you want a shot. This engine is mostly an unknown at this point. Get to know it better and see what it likes.

Paul

 

[slim811]

No one uses any additives?

 

[Glass Pony]

No one uses any additives?

I use a zinc additive with the newer oils.

 

[Broncobowsher]

No one uses any additives?

Outside of engine break in, no.

 

[turbotim2]

I would pull your tank, clean it and replace the sock on the end of the sending unit. I have never been convinced that synthetic oil does anything more than empty your wallet quicker. I've taken quite a few engines to 250,000 miles on dino but to each his own I guess.

 

[roundhouse]

Goggle PUREGAS.ORG and find some nonethanol gas close by.Broncos are used to regular gas and Motorcraft oil.

None available within 50 miles of Atlanta

You'd think it would be a good market with all the antiques, classics, hot rods, motorcycles etc

 

[patterdale]

The owner's manual for Elmer (1970) calls for 10w40 oil and premium gas. I run 10w40 oil and regular unleaded with no problems.

 

[joshnjulie1]

Ohhh shit. That's what I forgot to add.
BRB.........

 

[Broncobowsher]

The owners manual for my boat shows that the 210 HP version of the engine needs premium fuel as well, all 87 octane of it. Good thing I only have the 150 HP version that will run on regular fuel. I use 100 octane in that one.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ran Premium in mine for a few years, but after experimenting with the different grades successfully, I ran Regular from then on with no ill effects.
Until I had the valves redone though, I did run a lead-additive in each tank of gas. The one that you bought in a dispenser bottle and was good for many tanks was not that expensive. Something like ten bucks for about 20 tanks.

Paul

 

[LTL4life]

I guess i need to run a clear filter, wondering what kind of crud i have in my tanks. I
do run premium though.