The blue wires are both labeled "IGN PWR" (ignition power, I assume), and the white wires both have "COIL +" on them. Both blues have ring terminals and are fastened to one side of the resistor and both of the whites have ring terminals and are fastened to the opposite side.
First off, I would remove the resistor no matter what. I could be wrong, but a ballast resistor bolted to a fiberglass panel puts a bit of burned fiberglass in your future. Or at least delaminated from the heat generated by the coiled wire inside. If the backside is open and you can see the coils, it would almost certainly burn the fiberglass.
You need to follow each wire to it's other end to know what can be kept and what can be eliminated. Sorry I was not clear on that.
We know the basic function, and we know they're all at the resistor. We just don't know where the other ends terminate.
If it's as-wired by Centech (no guarantee of that of course) then both Blue wires are simply keyed 12v power. Which means they will not be needed for the ignition duties with your Ford EFI setup. But you can use either one for 12v switched duties for the new engine harness.
In theory (but we know how
that goes!) one White wire heads out to the ignition coil and the other heads back over to the starter relay's I post.
You can check each of those easily. At the starter relay/solenoid itself, look for the "I" post (right hand side, on the starter side of the relay) and you should see the White wire. On the coil, verify what is connected to the positive "+" side terminal.
Here again, it's not used for ignition duties with your Ford EFI setups, but it can be utilized as a START-only signal for the computer.
The EFI was not in the picture for this truck until I purchased it.
Is that a Painless or Ford Racing harness for the EFI? There is at least one other harness in your pictures, because Centech does not use striped wires such as that Green w/yellow wire in one of the pics.
I suppose I could dissect the Centech harness and rid it of what isn't needed any longer?
Well, you could... But I'm not sure I'd go to the trouble. If it is relatively unmolested then all you normally need to worry about are the business ends where they connect to the loads. And for the EFI all you need are the following:
1. Constant 12v power.
2. Switched 12v power.
3. Start-only 12v power.
4-12. Good grounds!;D
And that's about it. Of course you need your sensor wires for both the computer and the gauges (different for each function) and anything else you add, but those three (plus many grounds of course!) are the main interfaces between the chassis and engine harnesses.
...I realized that the fuse block, nor any other part of the harness which I can see inside the truck, does not contain a flasher for the turn signals or for the hazards. What is the story there?
As Scott said, the Centech harness comes with a pair of flasher units wired to their own branch of the harness. So yours is hopefully just tucked up way out of sight at this point. Hate to think that anyone thought it a good idea to remove them completely!
On this harness they were just saving space on the already compact fuse panel so they could have more fuses in less space.
I'm using an IDIDIT steering column which mimics the GM factory column so I will have to use a GM style plug at the base of the column for the ignition and turn signal wiring.
That's what Centech is set up like as well. You should be able to get that connector kit (plastic protector and the crimp connectors) either through Centech, Ididit, Flaming River, or your local parts store. Maybe the parts store, but it probably would confuse most of your chain store guys. Might find it at a local independent.
I have one around here that I seem to remember had that part on the shelf for some reason. I don't imagine they can sell that many, but they had one.
