Can’t recall, but what stall does his TC have?
Yes, it’s fully openingSimple question, are you getting full opening of the carb? Is full throttle opening the butterflies 100%?
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I did confirm it’s a street cam. The distributor is aThe OP hasn't shared many engine specs, but based on the numbers in post #21, the cam was almost certainly selected to take advantage of their aluminum heads. That's way more lift than most iron heads can use. I had an Explorer 5.0 for years with gt-40p heads and a cam with similar specs. It made good power but not until about 2500 rpm. Then it made plenty. A street cam, but not an RV cam, though with the (likely) aluminum heads, even if it isn't a stump puller it should go like crazy in the mid range.
And I agree m_m70's carb comments. It might be right, but probably not. And what about the distributor? What kind? What's the initial timing set at, and how much total advance are you getting?
9-10 psi at around 600 rpmWhere do you live? See if one of the board-guys lives near you. These guys are as good as they get.
What is your vacuum reading at idle?
Or inches, lol..Bring the idle up to 900 rpm (when warm) and get a reading in mmhg
No worries. I would’ve just multiplied it by 51.7149.Or inches, lol..
I agree with this but I would keep it at 600, hook up the vac gauge, bump timing up to 14*, see what the vacuum is then, adjust idle to 900rpms and see if that increases vacuum even more. 9 inches vacuum is low.Bring the idle up to 900 rpm (when warm) and get a reading in mmhg
So I assume you have a tach and know you're at 2500 rpms?? What size tires you running??Also another thing I need to mention is that the engine sounds like it’s screaming at 2500 rpm (50 mph). I knew the 4:10 gears would be lower but this seems a bit extreme.
So does the transmission make any bad noises?? Like back in August (original post) or did the new pump fix that?Got everything back from mechanic today. Pump was shot so they fixed that and there was an issue with the transfer case so they got replaced
Did your mechanic test drive it after he installed the transmission and new transfer case??Test drove it and response was sluggish and under powered. Same response as if choke was engaged. I’m going to change out gas and check timing.
Was the new TC from Kurt bad??The transmission mechanic replaced the TC.
That would be for a O2 gauge to measure your air fuel ratio to adjust your carb or for a computer to adjust afr for efi. Pretty sure you don't have a gauge so don't worry about that.Unsure about the wide band on the exhaust.
Really helpful if you could describe the noise.Also area around bell housing seems a lot noisier than it did before.
Are you getting three solid shifts out of your trans??Also another thing I need to mention is that the engine sounds like it’s screaming at 2500 rpm (50 mph).
I'm going to say both are probably having issues.So based on the limited info I posted here, are we thinking the performance issue is in the engine/ carb tuning and not in the transmission?
How loud is the clicking noise? Are you 100% positive it's coming from the transmission? Use a stethoscope type device to pinpoint the clicking noise. Wooden dowel works just as well. I'll bet that it's not the transmission, it could very well be an exhaust leak. Hoping not a lifter tick with a new motor.The picking noise coming from bellhousing ( ticking noise).
Well, that’s great. I’m taking back to the mechanic on Monday. May get it running then sell. Hate to do it, but I don’t have the know how to work on it. Evidently no one in my area does either.I feel ur pain. Just pulled a BP 306 with less than 50 miles with broken ring on #1 cylinder. in ur efforts to run down ur gremlins I didn’t see a compression test. Oh, did u know BP has stopped making the engine ? Just saying.






