Latest oil recommendations for 5.0 roller and for 4f70w

[fordguy]

The latest I read is 5w 20 for engine? Also read mercon v is backwards compatible ?

 

[ba123]

Yes on the Merc V. I use Amsoil for everything and swear by it.

I use this one:
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oe-...tomatic-transmission-fluid-otf/?code=OTF1G-EA

I have 5-30 going in soon when I take out this break-in oil.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signature-series-5w-30-100-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?code=ASLQT-EA

 

[fordguy]

Yes on the Merc V. I use Amsoil for everything and swear by it.

I use this one:
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oe-...tomatic-transmission-fluid-otf/?code=OTF1G-EA

I have 5-30 going in soon when I take out this break-in oil.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signature-series-5w-30-100-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?code=ASLQT-EA

How long on the break in oil, assuming you have a roller cam. My friend also swears by Amsoil.

 

[ba123]

They say 500 miles or 10 full heat cycles, or something like that.

I I haven't gone even 100 miles, but I've gone at least 4-5 full heat cycles, headers are sure broken in and no longer shiny…I’m sure I'm somewhat broken in at this point but I have a tiny oil leak that I think is my oil pan that got dinged but would like to be sure before I change it and if it's the pan, I'll get a new one if I can't stop it.

 

[fordguy]

They say 500 miles or 10 full heat cycles, or something like that.

I I haven't gone even 100 miles, but I've gone at least 4-5 full heat cycles, headers are sure broken in and no longer shiny…I’m sure I'm somewhat broken in at this point but I have a tiny oil leak that I think is my oil pan that got dinged but would like to be sure before I change it and if it's the pan, I'll get a new one if I can't stop it.

I think I have a brand new 5.0 pan.

 

[Broncobowsher]

As for motor oil, depends on how the engine was built. Old school specs, I would go 5W30. If you are modern, microfinished crank, thin low tension rings with a fine hone on the walls, 0W20 or 5W20

I think I have even heard the LV oil is backwards compatible with the 4R70w.

I'm not that fussy about oils these days. Learning that good oil, kept clean and changed, is better than high end oil left in too long.

 

[ba123]

This is nice new Moroso deep sump pan and at some point, my engine tipped while in storage and broke the Mustang alternator mount and bent the pan.

Wrote about when I fixed it here….https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/moroso-deep-sump-oops.318504/

While it would suck to have to replace this expensive pan, I think I'd rather do that than replace the rear main seal, so we’ll see which wish comes true. Ideally my last tightening did it but we’ll see.

If I do replace it, I'd prob go with the Bronco specific Canton deep sump.

 

[nvrstuk]

The latest I read is 5w 20 for engine? Also read mercon v is backwards compatible ?

Broncobowsher said it.

Depends on the engine. Diesel,? 1968 289?? Coyote?? All 3 of these take much different oils. regularly changed is most important.

Clearances are different between the 3 I listed above

 

[Jdgephar]

I've been picking viscosity rating by the ambient operating temperature range. Is that no longer true these days?

Edit: ...for my roller 302.

 

[nvrstuk]

Mostly, but all new engines run at much tighter tolerances ex: metric ring packs like Bowsher mentioned- and use much lighter oils which helps with mpg which is super important to meet epa reg's.

My temps range from below zero for weeks to above 100 for weeks and I try to drive daily as I don't care about the wearher- just whether the Counrt has sprayed Mg Chloride on the roads for ice.

 

[fordguy]

Broncobowsher said it.

Depends on the engine. Diesel,? 1968 289?? Coyote?? All 3 of these take much different oils. regularly changed is most important.

Clearances are different between the 3 I listed above

Listed in the title roller 5.0

 

[Broncobowsher]

Listed in the title roller 5.0

And as I stated, how is the engine built?

 

[fordguy]

And as I stated, how is the engine built?

more Old school than new. probably run 5w-30

 

[Broncobowsher]

That is what I would go with as well for a regular engine as well.

I did a "performance build" once and we ran loose clearances. Ended up with a high volume pump and 15W50 to keep it happy at low RPM. Next one went back together with regular clearances and I was happier with that one running 5W30.

I have never built one with all the modern stuff that would run the thin oil. friend drag races and runs 0W10. But he will need a rebuild in about 50 miles. All the tricks in a vintage "stock" class.

 

[jamesroney]

How long on the break in oil, assuming you have a roller cam. My friend also swears by Amsoil.

RANT ALERT...

I'm gonna say 10K miles. Pretty sure the new 6G Bronco comes with an oil life monitor that triggers at 8K. But it might be 10K like the Mustang.

My 2018 Chevy Volt went 45,000 miles before it got it's first oil change. But it's a PHEV, so the ICE doesn't run all the time.

Enterprise holdings has more than 1.7 million vehicles in their fleet with an average turnover of 13 months. They strictly follow the OEM requirements for service. I have rented many vehicles. Not once has any rental agreement said: "please drive this car using a complex and irrelevant set of arbitrary conditions, including something about braking...and return it during the middle of your trip so that we can change the break in oil."

Even Ford's publication on the first 1000 miles of ownership are "Recommended" and not "Required."

I'm not saying it's all hogwash, but it's really hard to separate the facts from the misinformation. Oil keeps getting "better" and yet the dinosaurs on this forum would have you use the same rules from 1950.

I live in Fremont, CA. If it drops below 40...I have to go cover my Citrus. If it hits above 90...I go looking for a hammock. I don't own air conditioning on my house. I don't know how to plug in an engine block heater.

Fuel injected, roller cam, chrome moly rings in mild climate? Set it and forget it.
Carburetor, flat tappet cam, lathe turned cast iron pipe for rings? totally DIFFERENT STORY.

 

[ba123]

more Old school than new. probably run 5w-30

Yes, that's what is right for a roller 5.0 and why I mentioned it. That's what I have as well.

RANT ALERT...

I'm gonna say 10K miles. Pretty sure the new 6G Bronco comes with an oil life monitor that triggers at 8K. But it might be 10K like the Mustang.

Thanks, I needed to hear this too. I'll leave my break in oil for a while then. I'm not even quite at 50 miles yet, just had a decent number of heat cycles but I guess the mileage and varying louds is more important.

 

[nvrstuk]

I am new skool, old rodder.

Break-n is called "break-in" for a reason. Parts are moving for the first time against each with only a few thou of oil film btw them.

Think of how fast a flat tappet cam grinds off the lobes in perfect conditions where it shouldn't grind off the lobes over 200K miles.

Brand new roller cam needles fail, brand new roller cams fail. Brand new roller rocker needles fail- t's not just old skool stuff dying early.

Think of all the crap from China (or US made) that has a lifespan of 10% of what it should..

OE is SOOOOoooo different than this cheap quality super expensive stuff we build engines with today-no comparison. Heck, Howard's lifters are failing WTH??? is up with that?

So with my short rant, on a brand new OE car do what James said (but you'd better check your oil level every 3k miles) HOWEVER, on a non-OE rebuild like my last one last summer, with all the highest quality (to my limited knowledge), there is no way in heck I would run it 10K miles for a first oil change or recommend it to anyone else because:

1- usually replacement non OE parts aren't the same quality even tho they are stronger (example forged)


2- tolerances at most machine shops who might be using 40+ yr old equipment isn't as high as standard (unless it's Ford Performance who can't follow manufacturers strict regulations)

3- knowledge of person doing the work AND did he perform all the measuring and documenting of all parts and how they fit to make sure the China crap he's installing is spec'd 100% right throughout the build (mini- blueprint)



New engine- not in a brand new vehicle?

Definitely make the first oil change at no more than 500 miles. Get the "not'perfect fit" pcs out of your engine and then enjoy it.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Oil is cheaper than an engine. If you read most any owner's manual there are 2 service intervals. Regular and severe. The severe happens if any of the following occurs, and goes off a list of almost any driving situation. Just follow the severe schedule.

 

[ba123]

Sorry to hijack, but anyone have any experience with a Moroso Deep sump and how much oil? I searched online and the opinions are a dime a dozen. It's a 7 qt and some people say 7 qt, some say 7 + filter, some say 6-7 is best.

I have 6 in there now and with my Moroso dipstick it reads way over full but it's technically a universal dipstick so thinking of adding a bit more . I watch the pressure as I drive and also data logging, I know I'm not low, pressure stays pretty high...yesterday at 3385 rpm, driving 56 mph down the road (forgot to go into OD, but maybe I don't even need it), pressure was at 72.6.

 

[bronco italiano]

Sorry to hijack, but anyone have any experience with a Moroso Deep sump and how much oil? I searched online and the opinions are a dime a dozen. It's a 7 qt and some people say 7 qt, some say 7 + filter, some say 6-7 is best.

I have 6 in there now and with my Moroso dipstick it reads way over full but it's technically a universal dipstick so thinking of adding a bit more . I watch the pressure as I drive and also data logging, I know I'm not low, pressure stays pretty high...yesterday at 3385 rpm, driving 56 mph down the road (forgot to go into OD, but maybe I don't even need it), pressure was at 72.6.

Which part # pan?