Radius Arm Cunfusion

[jdavisjr]

I am back to work on my 69 Bronco. The radius arm bushings are completely gone. (I have added a couple pictures). I have spent a lot time reaching posts on radius arms I have to admit, I am some what confused. When I take the front end out, I would like to know what other fixes I should be considering. I purchased the Bronco last year knowing there were issues. It will be a daily driver and trail, 60/40. The previous owner installed a 3-1/2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift because of the 351w. Do I stay with the standard length or extended? Do I need to install drop down brackets, do i need to upgrade the tie rod and drag link? The confusion lies in, what is the proper geometry. What are the best practice's to ensure the Bronco will handle moderate offroad and highway speeds around 70 mph. I do appreciate the knowledge base of all you members and look forward to your comments.

 

[1969]

Definitely replace the radius arm bushings.. they are non existent.

As for what to do to your Bronco, I’d say that depends on your plans for it. How does it drive? How do you want or expect it to drive? What do all the other parts look like on the front end? Does anything else have play in it?

 

[gr8scott]

The radius arm bushings are completely gone.

Must have been those polyurethane ones, became brittle, cracked, and fell off.
Use the rubber ones instead. Much better flex and won't become brittle.

Degreed Rubber Radius Arm Rear Bushings | 1966-79 Bronco, 1973-79 Ford Truck

Built with serious articulation in mind, these rubber radius arm bushings offer a smooth ride and better flex than urethane - and they don’t crack under stress.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

 

[jdavisjr]

I live in Denver and brought it so I can go trailing with friends. I drove it around town for a few weeks, got it up to about 55 mph, it likes to wonder a little bit nothing alarming. I decided I needed to replace the bushing. When I hit a bump I could feel the radius arm ends slam back and forth in the bracket, loud enough I thought something snapped. Its been sitting in the garage since. I just finished all the outside project on the house, so it is time to get busy on the Bronco. There are so many great places in Colorado to offroad, so I would guess I would trail blaze about 40% of the time, on moderate trails. I bought this for me because I retired last year. I have a decent shop and I feel comfortable doing a lot of work myself, allowing me to spend my money on parts. Because the axle is going to be dropped, I think it makes since to restore the entire front. That being said, what parts would you recommend be replaced in this restoration. I might also mention, I would like to take this to armature car shows some time in the future. Not sure if I will have the funds to take it to that level but I would like to try. I did read a post that do like to spend other members money. It is defiantly an investment.

 

[jdavisjr]

Must have been those polyurethane ones, became brittle, cracked, and fell off.
Use the rubber ones instead. Much better flex and won't become brittle.

http://[URL]https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/early-bronco-degreed-rubber-radius-strut-arm-bushings

[/URL]

The passenger side busing still has some left, defiantly polyurethane. Thanks for the tip.

 

[ntsqd]

What I would do: Longer radius arms with Johnnie Joints or Metal Cloak joints at the frame, Cut and turn the C brackets to get proper caster without needing caster correcting bushings (also maintains correct pinion angle), tuned Fox or Bilstein remote reservoir dampers (2" body at the rear, 2.5" body in front), longer trac-bar with at least one JJ or Metal Cloak joint on it.

 

[jdavisjr]

What I would do: Longer radius arms with Johnnie Joints or Metal Cloak joints at the frame, Cut and turn the C brackets to get proper caster without needing caster correcting bushings (also maintains correct pinion angle), tuned Fox or Bilstein remote reservoir dampers (2" body at the rear, 2.5" body in front), longer trac-bar with at least one JJ or Metal Cloak joint on it.

I like this idea. If I implement these upgrades, can I use the existing tie rod and drag link and replace all the bushings or should I replace these also?

 

[phyler]

Getting fresh bushings in is step one. From there, getting an alignment so you have your starting numbers is step two. Then you can start making choices. Cut and turn, new linkage, etc.

Lots of us around the Denver area. Some of us even drive ours on occasion.

 

[jdavisjr]

Getting fresh bushings in is step one. From there, getting an alignment so you have your starting numbers is step two. Then you can start making choices. Cut and turn, new linkage, etc.

Lots of us around the Denver area. Some of us even drive ours on occasion.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Stock arms have worked since '66. Nothing wrong with them. The bushings, yes.
Long arms were the latest in long travel front suspension before people quit modifying them extensivly as play toys as the value went too high.

Are you wanting this affordably? A set of rubber bushings (the offset that exists now would be the correct choice) will get you back on the road. Doesn't really cost much. And they work pretty good.
Long arms will reach deep into the pocket. Generally paired with a set of springs all around and the latest in shocks. Since you are looking at road use add a sway bar to control the body roll that the long arms help generate.

I would drop in a set of rubber bushings, go drive it. Figure out what you really want. I once bought a big block F250 because I never owned a big block before and was going to have fun with it. Planned on a big honking engine. Fixed it up a little and drove it. Realized that was not the right choice for that truck. After driving it some, it just wanted to be a real nice stock truck. Didn't know that until I fixed a handful of problems and actually drove it around.

 

[jdavisjr]

The individual i purchased it from used it to get to good hunting spots and, if I can believe it, drove from South Dakoda to Wisconsin twice a year to visit family. The bronco has a cruise control, it might be true. I do like the direction to replace bushings, take it for a ride and determine next step. The 351w sounds good and it runs well. Behind that is a C4 that also runs well. Thanks for all the help.

 

[ntsqd]

I based my suggestion on two EB's similarly outfitted that I know log some serious trail and highway miles. It certainly isn't the least expensive option, and not all of it is bolt-on stuff - some fab would be required.

 

[nvrstuk]

I agree with ntsqd on his upgrades and with the installation of an anti-sway bar. Makes a huge difference with the installation of the long travel arms.

Drive it for a while... I probably drive mine more than most . Nothing like putting a few hundred thousand miles on over 50 yrs to know how you want it to handle, accelerate, BRAKE, and how dependable you want it to be.

Yes, we ARE really good at spending people's money. Enjoy your rig. One thing nobody has mentioned yet is your engine combination. Denver and Colorado means lot's of elevation change... carb'd power plants don't do as well with your area than let's say, someone who owns this rig and wheels in Nebraska! lol

I'm headed towards a potential major expense, but ONLY if you notice a need for it when driving around getting used to your new rig. EFI adjusts for elevation changes w/o thinking about it. Carb's, not so much.