Need help with ignition switch

[WPS 73 Bronco]

So my ignition key has been loose in the switch since I got it back in January. What I mean by lose is that when I insert the key, there seems to be a lot of slop or play in the fit. Over the last month I’ve noticed that sometimes the key won’t turn the switch. After a couple giggles, pull the key out, try again, and then the lock on the switch released and I could start it up.

Yesterday was the first drive in a week. Same thing in the morning, and when I went to lunch. When I left work, problem. It took me about 5 minutes of giggling, shaking, pulling in and out to finally get the tumbler to release the lock. On the way home I stopped at the grocery store. When I got back in it took 10 minutes before I could get the lock released.

So my question is what to do? Should I just go buy a new ignition switch & door locks OR is there an easy solution to this problem? If I’m buying new, is there a BEST supplier to buy from or are they all the same?

 

[phred]

Just replace them. Getting the insert out can be a pain if the key and tumbler are worn but you’ll be glad you did once it’s replaced.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I pulled it out and cleaned it real good. It still hangs up a little bit, but it’s working for now. I’ll put it on the list of things to replace.

 

[DirtDonk]

I'd put it up on top of that list though WPS. It's been giving you too many headaches already, and all you did was to Band-Aid it for now.
If it's worn that badly, especially if it's an original switch and cylinder, it's just a matter of time (and probably not much time at that) before it's troublesome again. Maybe even to the point of leaving you stranded this time.
Or just as bad, not being able to get the cylinder out.

Personally I would buy just the cylinder and door lock key set. Just to see if that's the only issue. You can put it in your old switch and it should fix things.
If you don't have trouble with the switch now, there's no sense in changing it just to find out the new switch is faulty right out of the box, or gives you trouble in short order.
If it truly is an original (or just very old) ignition switch, then it might make sense to have a new one standing by. They do eventually fail after all.
But the old ones are good until they're not. New ones are hit or miss. Luckily ignition switches are not as bad as some new parts, but they're still "new parts" and that's a bad word around here these days.

It's certainly possible that your old switch is part of the problem. But it sounds like a strictly lock cylinder issue for now.

Paul

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Thanks Paul. I will get them on order.

When I replace the locks I'll work on my rattle!

 

[twoshoes69]

did you replace the ignition cylinder and if so, where did you order from? I replaced my 66 original once with a new one and the switch spring will not spring back so the starter is constantly on unless I physically move it from run to start. NOT GOOD. Need to replace this one ASAP. Curious if you found a "plug and play" solution.

 

[DirtDonk]

When you replaced yours, was it with the cylinder AND switch? And by any chance did you include a new bezel?
When I hear about sticking in the START position I think about the new modern reproduction switches and bezel. The spring around the shank of the switch, and the bezel in the dash, don't always play nice.
Add to that any painting (especially powder coating!) done to the dash, and you often have a headache.

But if it was just the cylinder alone, I'm not sure what's going on. Other than a defective new part (again) causing trouble?
It only takes a slight amount of extra resistance to keep the switch from returning to ON.

Good luck.

Paul