1970 1/2 cab build "phase 2"

[Ether]

Ok, your earlier model (what year is this again? (oh, I see it's a '70)) is a little different than mine.
That ground wire from the alternator to the regulator bolt is a tiny thing, to the tune of about 18-20 gauge or so. I've seen the big grounds, but don't know when they did and did not use them.
I'll have to go out and reference my '71 one of these days to see just how it's oriented through the connections.

By the way, ALL of the wiring diagrams are incorrect for (so far) ALL of the '71 model trucks. I've been keeping my eyes open for a very early '71, or very late '70, to see if there was a running change, but so far all of the '71 model Broncos I've ever looked at/worked on used the '72 and later wiring scheme.
And so far too, ALL of the '70 model and earlier ones used the two rectangular firewall connectors there at the back of the engine and only the single grommet on the driver's side.
The '71 models so far have eliminated the two connectors, and utilize three separate (and larger) grommeted firewall pass-throughs. One on the driver's side, one on the passenger side, and one in the middle about where your two rectangular connectors are.
So maybe that's the difference between the large gauge and small gauge grounds where they originate from the alternator? Dunno, but I'll report back when I check out my '71.

Actually five ways, if you count it's continued path. I suppose that does not count though, since it really does not "split" in that last direction where it goes back out to the starter relay/solenoid to charge the battery and power everything up.
The large Black w/yellow wire basically is responsible for all power around the vehicle. When the engine is OFF, you get power to the fuses, key, light switch, etc, from the battery. When the engine is ON, the path of flow is reversed and the alternator powers everything and re-charges the battery.
So the Black wire (with yellow stripe over most of it's length) is one large, long loop from alternator to starter relay/ battery. Ok, I see!!

Such as? Maybe cleaning up the fuse panel contacts? Otherwise making sure that all connections are free of corrosion, along with good and tight?
And maybe even using dielectric grease to keep things from corroding in the future? Well, it mostly needed repaired, Many wires had ben broken/chewed by rats/squirrels while it sat parked for yrs before I bought it.

Ok good. That would mean you won't even have a connection for the old Brown wire on the "I" terminal. So dilemma solved, as to whether use it or not.
And some of them have even taller main studs, making adding more wires easier.

Lucky guy! Can't wait to work on a bare engine compartment again!

There are only two ways to accomplish this. So no gray area at all. Only have to choose which direction to get it from, and in your case (with the new style starter relay) you literally have ONLY one choice.
Assuming for the moment that you're still using an original style Bronco ignition switch, there is only the one contact that has the Green w/red and the Red w/green (or puke Pink/Brown, depending upon how Ford wired yours). This is the only place on the entire vehicle that you can source both hot in RUN and START power.
So whether you take it straight off the back of the switch (possible, but a bit of a pain really), or from one of the other ends of the wires, is up to you.
Sounds like now you know what to do with the old Green w/red wire from the old voltage regulator, OR the old Red w/green wire from the positive side of the ignition coil. Refer to the pic below, and see if it is consistent, my understanding is that the wire from the old voltage regulator will go to the new 4G alternator. The pink and green/red originate from the "C" post on the ignition switch. The red/green wire from "S" and that will go to the starter relay.

The only bad news in all of this, would be that if your ignition switch gets old and ever fails to keep power to that circuit during START, you will start having glitches with the computer, and need to replace the ignition switch immediately, rather than later.
With the old starter relay setup, you could have used your old Brown wire as a supplement. Anytime the starter is cranking and power is killed to all the normal accessory circuits, the "I" wire will supplement a failing ignition switch.
I still think it's better to use the Green w/red or Red w/green wires, but you'll just have to jump right in on a switch replacement if it ever does start to go out.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, the switch diagram is correct and is what I was referring to in a way.
Yellow is the battery power into the switch of course.
The black with green stripe on the center post powers all the accessories, with the key in both positions.
The red with blue stripe wire on the S post, goes to the S post on the starter relay.
Both the green with red for the alternator and the red with green for the ignition are the ones I was referring to as the only wires on a bronco that have power in both RUN and START.
The green with red is definitely needed for the 4G alternator, but you can also tap into it if you wish. Might be the best bet, but you still have options.

It sounds like, with your setup, the original red with green (or puke brown) for the coil will no longer be utilized for anything.
This could potentially be your source for the computer. But there is a caveat here.
The green with red, or whatever color it actually is under the dash, is your resistor wire. So it might not (read as, probably won’t) provide sufficient voltage for powering up your computer.
To use this circuit, you will either have to figure out how to splice into it right at the ignition switch, or use it to power an auxiliary relay that will then provide 12 V to your computer.

All of the above are viable options, I believe.

 

[Ether]

Sometimes the little things are very satisfying. Isolated the reverse light circuit in the OEM harness, picked up new pigtails for the reverse light switch on the ZF and the “new” windshield washer pump/res.


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[Ether]

Super bummed I dropped the OEM glass license plate light cover… ordered an aftermarket LED version. Sad to loose another original part, but


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[sprdv1]

Super bummed I dropped the OEM glass license plate light cover… ordered an aftermarket LED version. Sad to loose another original part, but


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yeah, for sure.. it happens though buddy

 

[sprdv1]

Need help.

Old alternator harness: delete orange wire, ground wire delete?, battery black/yellow delete or keep and attach to battery + or battery side on new solenoid?

Black wire from battery side of old solenoid, keep on battery side of solenoid?

Keep the Ignition/start wire to new solenoid?

Delete the brown wire from old solenoid??

Delete the old coil wire? Move somewhere else?

Edelbrock harness has its own coil connections.

I hate electrical.

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when in doubt, label it out

 

[sprdv1]

Harness cleaned and repaired.

Awesome colored diagram for my yr EB.

Current engine bay status, actually before I removed the harness.

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lot of work going into that... don't envy you..

 

[jmhend]

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Two of my favorite things... QT and Broncos!

 

[Ether]

Installed this new light, extended the wiring shrink wrapped/taped through the tailgate. Just need to tie into the harness.

Powered it up with a Milwaukee battery just to see what it looked like


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[stupidboy]

I want your bronco

 

[Ether]

Progress on the Xterra box finally, I think I was patient and got a good specimen from the pick n pull. OEM Xterra shaft mated with EB non PS shaft, may still weld the "D" side.

 

[Ether]

Things keep getting in the way, but I am chipping away at it...can't wait.

 

[blade]

Things keep getting in the way, but I am chipping away at it...can't wait.

That's not Oklahoma,

Nice build on your bronco.

 

[Ether]

Worked on some rust repair in the battery tray area, the inner fender needed a patch. I repaired the tray mount with a large galvanized washer trimmed to fit. Also cleaned and painted the front pans top and bottom. Next I will seam seal and paint to match "caramel bronze metallic", hopefully it doesn't look like trash. My sheet metal work is't the best, I do better with thicker metal work haha...

Also got out in the snow in my other "4wd" since the EB is broke...

 

[Ether]

Had a large block of time yesterday, got the floors prepped/ seam sealed on top and underneath. Then got a light coat of the spray can paint match on them, just going for t a patina'd/ blended mix.

Also got one of my custom long arms designed and made, these have been bouncing around in my head for months. 10.75" longer than stock, dual plane bend, Johnny Joint at frame...we'll see how they work haha

Need to finish the engine bay prep so we can get this Engine and Trans swap done, then on to wiring and fueling the Pro Flow.

 

[Ether]

Another coat of color on the front floors, finished plating one of the arms and welded in the JJ bung...all done except for shock mount which will wait for mock up. Progress!!

 

[Ether]

So, I have been chipping away and buying more crap haha.

Got the Exploder brackets wire wheeled, and installed...my 1st attempt at a serp belt was a success. It is very tight but I think it is good. Need to make brackets to move that PS res down most likely. Still spit shinning the engine bay/ front section of the frame...then decided to rehab the heater box, because what is another "while I'm here". 1st stab at a "upgrade blower" was a fail. Returned it and ordered another one with the metal cage that quite a few have used successfully: 35587/ 35602.

Clutch master is mounted, but has to come off and get married with the vacuum booster. Should I reinforce the firewall? or is the brake bracket enough?

Didn't get pics but the heater box is cleaned/painted and ready for reassembly...just waiting on some foam seal material. Love seeing the Fo-Mo-Co logo, probably the original heater core....judging by the rest of this bronco. Really solid/clean for a Louisiana fishing rig.

Grabbed a used ARP 12pt header stud set off Amazon for $25, only fitted one side and 2 bolts need some massaging, or creative timing/ order of washer/nut placement. I ordered some 3/4" long arp bolts also, might mix/match. Need to decide how to wrangle the Ford Motorsport wires at some point. Soon I will know if these headers clear the frame, they may end up with v-band collector, before being re-coated.

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[DirtDonk]

I could be wrong, but I think the belt routing is incorrect.
I’ve seen it done this way before, but it has always seemed “non-factory“ in its orientation.
Factories don’t usually allow that long of a stretch of unsupported belt like you have at the top. Looks more to me like the water pump should have more of a wrap, then it should go around the power steering, then under the idler between the alternator and power steering pump.
I know I should’ve gone out and looked at mine before I typed this, but that would be like too much work. And that’s not on the agenda tonight.

If you don’t already have an original Explorer in your driveway, I’m sure there are diagrams online.
Maybe your way is a necessity when you eliminate the A/C pump?
That might also explain why I’ve seen it this way before.

 

[hunter1]

I could be wrong, but I think the belt routing is incorrect.
I’ve seen it done this way before, but it has always seemed “non-factory“ in its orientation.
Factories don’t usually allow that long of a stretch of unsupported belt like you have at the top. Looks more to me like the water pump should have more of a wrap, then it should go around the power steering, then under the idler between the alternator and power steering pump.
I know I should’ve gone out and looked at mine before I typed this, but that would be like too much work. And that’s not on the agenda tonight.

If you don’t already have an original Explorer in your driveway, I’m sure there are diagrams online.
Maybe your way is a necessity when you eliminate the A/C pump?
That might also explain why I’ve seen it this way before.

Top of the belt should go under the idler.

 

[DirtDonk]

That’s what I thought. No perfect solution.
Either the top stretch has too much distance and slack, or the bottom one is too close to the idler pulley. So neither way is perfect, but the way shown by hunter should be the best.