How Important is the Water Pump You Choose

[fordguy]

Looking at this lengthy thread, https://classicbroncos.com/forums/t...xploder-mech-vrs-tauras-electric-fans.256487/ , and the importance of the water pump is mentioned. So what water pump is the better, preferred pump? Also, I am going to run a stock explorer fan and fan clutch on my explorer front dress? Right?

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, it’s seemingly simple question. Without a very simple answer. Or maybe it is simple…
Is it important to get a good water pump? Of course!
But is there anything wrong with a standard pump? No, there is not.

How important it becomes to you individually, is how much trouble you have keeping your particular engine cool. No trouble keeping it. Cool? Stock engine? Then there has never been a stock explorer set up that needed upgrading that I’m aware of.
But then again, when you’re replacing the pump, an upgraded, more efficient pump is not a bad thing to look for. Might end up being future proofing in case you decide to modify the motor.
Your choices are fairly limited, being that it’s specifically for a Ford Explorer. So in a way, that just makes it a little simpler.
Personally, I’m running, and would run, a stock explorer pump just about any day. But when replacing it, I’d probably go with a Flow Kooler brand.
Nothing wrong with more efficiency at a slightly higher cost. Last time I checked, there wasn’t a huge difference between a good quality replacement, and a Flow Kooler. I’m sure if you did all your shopping on Amazon, you could easily find one less expensive. I just don’t usually check for price alone.

 

[DirtDonk]

I guess part of this discussion should include the specifics about your engine and bronco.
Is it stock, slightly modified, or heavily modified? Did you have heating/cooling problems in the past?

 

[fordguy]

I guess part of this discussion should include the specifics about your engine and bronco.
Is it stock, slightly modified, or heavily modified? Did you have heating/cooling problems in the past?

Stock explorer, should cool fine but it does get over 100 degrees here. If there is a better widget I always will go that route if I am replacing anyhow.

 

[DirtDonk]

Me too!
So, I’ll recommend this. If you have a perfectly good stock one, just use it.
If the one you have is an original, or is in any way questionable, then there’s no harm in upgrading now and getting a new pump.
Two birds, so to speak…

 

[tackhouse]

And there’s something to be said about the same metal. Do you have an aluminum radiator? You should probably go with an aluminum water pump and heater core. Otherwise, steel across the board.

 

[DirtDonk]

I used to feel that way as well. But there are just too many dissimilar metals in the system already, that an aluminum water pump versus an iron water pump, just isn’t that big a deal.
I’m pretty sure you’re only gonna find aluminum water pumps in the Explorer design anyway, but even if not, the front timing cover is already aluminum.
Most replacement heater cores are aluminum. Most water pumps can be had both ways (again except for the explorer) and then radiators get replaced with aluminum.

The two most important things you can do for a cooling system, I believe, are to keep the coolant maintained, and keep your electrical system well grounded.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I had a discussion about this about a month ago. With a friend who was in the radiator business.
remanufactured pumps are generally machined to clean them up, tolerances get sloppy and pumping suffers. New pumps generally have tight tolerances and will pump better.
Worst vanes are straight vanes in a stamped plate. Best vanes are generally curved, spiral vanes in a cast impeller.
That was the discussion regarding good vs. not good water pumps. With a lot of generality statements. Plenty of vehicles will run the basic pump just fine, doesn't have to be a good pump. But when you need a good pump, you need a good pump.

 

[Johnnyb]

I used to feel that way as well. But there are just too many dissimilar metals in the system already, that an aluminum water pump versus an iron water pump, just isn’t that big a deal.
I’m pretty sure you’re only gonna find aluminum water pumps in the Explorer design anyway, but even if not, the front timing cover is already aluminum.
Most replacement heater cores are aluminum. Most water pumps can be had both ways (again except for the explorer) and then radiators get replaced with aluminum.

The two most important things you can do for a cooling system, I believe, are to keep the coolant maintained, and keep your electrical system well grounded.

You can get a cap with a sacrificial anode dangling off of it to mitigate the dissimilar metals in the system. Block and most heads are ferrous, so no way to completely eliminate, best to compensate.

-JB

 

[fordguy]

I had a discussion about this about a month ago. With a friend who was in the radiator business.
remanufactured pumps are generally machined to clean them up, tolerances get sloppy and pumping suffers. New pumps generally have tight tolerances and will pump better.
Worst vanes are straight vanes in a stamped plate. Best vanes are generally curved, spiral vanes in a cast impeller.
That was the discussion regarding good vs. not good water pumps. With a lot of generality statements. Plenty of vehicles will run the basic pump just fine, doesn't have to be a good pump. But when you need a good pump, you need a good pump.

And I would rather put the good pump on now, rather than later. Explorer pumps from rockauto are very inexpensive.

 

[Glass Pony]

Here's a picture for this discussion. Flowkooler in front, stock in the back.

 

[fordguy]

Here's a picture for this discussion. Flowkooler in front, stock in the back. View attachment 918222

thanks for the comparison picks.

 

[nvrstuk]

I used to feel that way as well. But there are just too many dissimilar metals in the system already, that an aluminum water pump versus an iron water pump, just isn’t that big a deal.
I’m pretty sure you’re only gonna find aluminum water pumps in the Explorer design anyway, but even if not, the front timing cover is already aluminum.
Most replacement heater cores are aluminum. Most water pumps can be had both ways (again except for the explorer) and then radiators get replaced with aluminum.

The two most important things you can do for a cooling system, I believe, are to keep the coolant maintained, and keep your electrical system well grounded.

The third and most important thing is running distilled water in a cooling system that has aluminum parts in it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good call. But at the same time, make sure NOT to use de-ionized water.

Paul

 

[nvrstuk]

This is kinda like buying antifreeze..
.
Which one? Yellow, red, orange, blue pink, violet...???

OR

The Prestone jug that used to be yellow but is now black (I think) that says it works and blends with all manufacturers spec's, alum, steel, cast and ALL types of antifreeze.

Holy cow, no wonder everyone is confused! lol

 

[nvrstuk]

thanks for the comparison picks.

Just remember that Flowkooler is telling most Ford Exploder wp installers to stack gaskets because they don't seat the impeller to the correct depth and it won't rotate.

I have had at least 10 guys reply confirming what happened to me 7yra ago!

 

[Soylent]

Good call. But at the same time, make sure NOT to use de-ionized water.

Paul

Why? Do you mean RODI 0 tds?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Water wants to have stuff dissolved in it. Take everything out, it will load itself up with what it can get, the metals inside the engine.

At work we have a car wash. The final rinse is de-ionized RO water. For the spot free rinse. No minerals in it. That section of the car wash has severe erosion of the metals.

Interestingly I was reading an old owners manual, model T? The recommended water was soft water, rain water being the best. Got me thinking. Hard water has rocks floating around in it. Distilled water, de-ionized water has nothing in it and wants stuff in it. Soft water is the happy middle ground where it isn't leaving rocks behind nor is it trying to fill the void by eating away the inside of the engine.

Race cars, distilled water is the best for heat transfer. Engines are not expected to last forever either. Usually going to have issues well before cooing system problems. I only run distilled water in the wiper washer bottle, with the methanol additive.

 

[rockinrich]

Just remember that Flowkooler is telling most Ford Exploder wp installers to stack gaskets because they don't seat the impeller to the correct depth and it won't rotate.

I have had at least 10 guys reply confirming what happened to me 7yra ago!

I know this post is from earlier this year but is this the case with installing their water pumps still?

 

[nvrstuk]

I have no idea however, it was happening for 3 yrs as I had guys I know call me about it AND when I called Flowkooler there were quite adamant that we should jus stack gaskets till it cleared- which to me meant, screw you guys, jerry rig our parts fitment to make it work!