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Here is what I did with wheels that were both historic and cost 500 each on an unusual Italian sports car. I go to the local tire place and give the guy a 20-30 dollar tip to do the best he can to mount them without damage. They try at least and more often than not they do a fabulous job.

Looking at the side images it looks like the rear is a little sagged. So just going with new stock suspension would help. The WHs 1.5 inch suspension might be the best compromise overall: would give it that high-rider 4x4 look without actually be much higher than stock. I did 2.5 inches on an...

When do you plan to drop in the T-case? I ask because that is certainly a lot easier to work with before the body goes in. Much easier to hold and drop from above, plus the linkage, especially twin stick arrangements and linkages are easier to configure before the body gets in the way.

At the price of gas, and with a 23 gallon tank, just don't drive your Bronco for a week and it is paid for! But, really, I think Knack hit the mail on the head. This is shaman stuff.

The closest I ever got to something "historical" was this odd signed Ford part label on the bottom of the driver's side right seat track. No idea why the seat track would be replaced. This was in the 71 Chariot.

I had a somewhat similar situation. I made a metal shield to protect the pump from the exhaust and attached it to the same bolts that mount the pump. To be extra sure, I wrapped the exhaust near the pump with one of the flexable heat shield products. Seems o.k. and probably overkill. But I feel...

Mine is "bouncy" as Gas Pig described it. A little excessive rebound such that bumps are no longer jolts but somewhat extended whoop de doos. Odd sensation with the front diving on sudden stops and lifting on acceleration. These were the correct shocks as supplied by WH. The really odd thing is...

Well, I have a 2.5 SL and Bilsteins and front springs all direct from WH and the ride is bouncy. So bouncy it feels dangerous to drive anything other than a straight road. So I am no help. I am thinking that some of these shocks are now designed for big tires, not 30x9.50s.

After using the visors all year I can say that I am surprised that opaque visors are still standard equipment in new vehicles. These are so much more useful. I have never used visors before, but this year I have used them often because they just plain work, especially with the small windshield...

O.K. I got a few pictures that show how they mount. Solid hardware. So much more useful than opaque visors. Just cool looking and don;t intrude into the limited headspace. Yes, the Axia Alloys hand grab brackets in that first image are really, really solid and nice.

I did the WH sun visors and they are one of the best mods I have done to the 76. Expensive? Yes. But they are quality. The Bronco wind shield is already very short and opaque sun visors are dangerous. With these I can still see, but the glare from the sun is vastly reduced. I have even used them...

How many miles? A mostly unmolested Bronco like that is solid gold, not in money, but in actual daily usefulness and pure awesomeness. I speak from experience. Our light blue 76 is actually pretty stock with a c4. The only additions being modern off road bumpers, 33s, wheels, 2.5 inch, and...

ol'Blue, dude, thanks for doing that. That sort of list is exactly the thing needed for these sorts of things. I can't list the number of times I have tried to duplicate someones suggestions and found that the finding of the necessary parts is a major pain. You should be added as a co-author on...

And if you have not already done so, please check out the tech article on here: https://classicbroncos.com/forums/ams/explorer-5-0-serpentine-accessory-drive-belt-conversion.1386/

hyghlnder pretty much summed it up. The motor is of no concern in a vehicle as old as an early Bronco. The body now, that is the deal breaker if there is lots of rust, or many trim or interior parts, along with basic mechanicals in need of replacement. It's all the little stuff that can get bad...

Sometimes the holes get deformed in a conical shape, too. The best way to get the holes and the surrounding flat is with a couple of stiff washers on either side and a through bolt tightened until the metal is returned to a flat surface. Then the flange itself get a careful treatment as...

On the other hand, I am surprised that '72 went to 68k given that there is a general sense of a good project not quit finished. The paint is oddly imperfect in some of the images given that it appears to be an off-the-frame build. That big chip above the drivers door handle and the rough paint...

And let that be a lesson to you! Nice choice for a re-entry, too.

I don't see anything wrong either.

I know from experience that the passenger side Explorer bracket is sensitive to leveling. The tensioner extension can get too far in or out and may require a washer, or two, behind the lower bolt. I had a belt fly off during early experiments for this exact reason.